Just took my 69' out for a drive (great weather here today) and I can hear a very audible ticking sound. I'm pretty sure I heard it when I drove it 2wks ago, but didn't investigate. At one point, I thought I had the turn signal on, as it sounds just like it, but of course, increases/decreases with rpms. I popped the hood with it idling and it sounds like it's ticking at the back of the valve cover...like above #5 or #7. It's a built 350 with roller rockers. If/when I take the cover off, what exactly should I be looking for? And does it sound like it might be an easy fix/adjustment? I'm an idiot when it comes to engines, so be nice :)

I had that same exact issue and it turned out to be a leaking header gasket.

I had that same exact issue and it turned out to be a leaking header gasket.

I checked the bolts for tightness 2wks ago when I heard it, as it was a fainter sound. It's louder now...but my hearing kinda sucks too.

EDIT: Hmm...I was able to tighten the two rear bolts down a bit...and it seemed to lessen the sound. The back one is kinda tough to reach. I think I'll support the collector just a bit and try to tighten more after it cools off a tad. You might have guessed the problem Charlie.

At one point, I thought I had the turn signal on, as it sounds just like it


Typically, old people drive around with their turn signal on but they wouldn't be able to hear any ticking noise anyways so at least you can still hear good!:yes::D.....No, but seriously, hopefully it's just a loose valve adjustment and not a bad rocker arm.....Grasp the pushrod with your fingers and see if you can move it up and down, if so, then you'll need to readjust the valve.:yes::thumbsup:


Also, look for any black carbon trail around the header flange, which would indicate a leakage.

I used to have the same problem with my old Blue 69. It had headers on it and for some reason would allways burn the header gasket out on # 8 cyclinder. I finally replaced the cheep gaskets with a set of percys aluminum gaskets and never had aproblem again.

Typically, old people drive around with their turn signal on but they wouldn't be able to hear any ticking noise anyways so at least you can still hear good!:yes::D.....No, but seriously, hopefully it's just a loose valve adjustment and not a bad rocker arm.....Grasp the pushrod with your fingers and see if you can move it up and down, if so, then you'll need to readjust the valve.:yes::thumbsup:


Also, look for any black carbon trail around the header flange, which would indicate a leakage.

LOL. I'll try that Ron. Can't see any obvious black marking, but it's hard to see so far back. It's a beautiful day here, but I may not have time to check the valve itself until tomorrow.

I used to have the same problem with my old Blue 69. It had headers on it and for some reason would allways burn the header gasket out on # 8 cyclinder. I finally replaced the cheep gaskets with a set of percys aluminum gaskets and never had aproblem again.

I will keep this in mind.

I used to have the same problem with my old Blue 69. It had headers on it and for some reason would allways burn the header gasket out on # 8 cyclinder. I finally replaced the cheep gaskets with a set of percys aluminum gaskets and never had aproblem again.

That's what I was thinking also kevin. Mine was doing the same thing on the P/S, when I took them loose the center gasket was blown out. I replaced them on both sides while I was at it, just used the cheap felpro gaskets . Still have a slight tapping in either the #4 or #6 cylinder.

That's what I was thinking also kevin. Mine was doing the same thing on the P/S, when I took them loose the center gasket was blown out. I replaced them on both sides while I was at it, just used the cheap felpro gaskets . Still have a slight tapping in either the #4 or #6 cylinder.

Thanks Mark. I had to go p/u my oldest from school for the wknd, and I just got back. I will just take the headers loose on that side tomorrow and see what the gasket looks like....and go from there. I tightened up the header and thought for a moment it sounded better....but I'm not really sure and I don't like hearing anything that doesn't sound normal :)

Not to hijack this thread too much but I have the same problem. But, mine is not a header gasket leak. I recently installed new headers and aluminum gaskets and am sure they are not leaking. I have had a lifter/valve noise mostly on the passenger side for a while now. Since I have no idea what cam is in my 402 (396), I was asuuming that it is suppsoed to sound that way. The only thing I know is it has roller tipped rockers. While driving the car last Sunday I noticed that the performance was dropping off and it got to the point that it would not idle. Yesterday, I started it up again and it runs a little rough and will not stay running below 2000 rpms. When I get the time I am going to pull off the valve cover, turn the engine over and check the rocker movement to see if there is a valvetrain problem.
Any other suggestions are welcome.

Not to hijack this thread too much but I have the same problem. But, mine is not a header gasket leak......... While driving the car last Sunday I noticed that the performance was dropping off and it got to the point that it would not idle.........


This is probably worth starting a new thread, just so you get better info. But from your description, the very first thing I would do is a compression test of all 8 cylinders. If you have a performance loss, then something ain't right. A compression test will tell you which cylinder(s) to look at more closely. Could be loose/worn valvetrain component, worn cam lobe, bent push rod, stuck lifter, head gasket leak, etc, etc..............

Of course, check the basic things too, like plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Also, look for vacuum leak. Maybe a vacuum hose fell off???

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I had a hell of a time tightening #8 cylinder bolts. I had to use swivels, extensions, etc. I have since used thread lock on them. I haven't had any further issues. I have ARP bolts that I may use that are drilled so I can use safety wire to keep them from backing out along with the thread lock. Another thing Kevin, I had a cam go out on me. I had two lobes wipe and it made alomost the same sound. When it started again I was pissed, but it ended up just being the header gasket. If you are getting the sound to change by tightening the header/manifold bolts, then I would lean toward that being the problem area.

I had a hell of a time tightening #8 cylinder bolts. I had to use swivels, extensions, etc. I have since used thread lock on them. I haven't had any further issues. I have ARP bolts that I may use that are drilled so I can use safety wire to keep them from backing out along with the thread lock. Another thing Kevin, I had a cam go out on me. I had two lobes wipe and it made alomost the same sound. When it started again I was pissed, but it ended up just being the header gasket. If you are getting the sound to change by tightening the header/manifold bolts, then I would lean toward that being the problem area.

When it warms up here in a little while, I'm going to investigate further. Gosh, I hope it's just the gasket. If it's a loose valve...I'll be back on here asking how to tighten it, unless it's real obvious. I've never made it a secret that I know zero about engines. The closest thing for me working on an engine was replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 79' Z...about 25yrs ago :o.

OK, here's a pic of the rockers. As you can see, the 2nd from the end on the right is down, while the rest are up (actually, the very 1st one is ever so slightly down). What does this mean...and how can I fix it? Is it likely that this one rocker is making the ticking sound I'm hearing?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/dbx/Rockers002.jpg

OK, here's a pic of the rockers. As you can see, the 2nd from the end on the right is down, while the rest are up (actually, the very 1st one is ever so slightly down). What does this mean...

In no way does that indicate a bad (or noisy) lifter. It just means that particular cam lobe is actuating the valve. You would always see a few like that. Rotate the engine slowly by hand and you'll see they all move (eventually). Two crankshaft rotations will rotate the cam once - each valve will go up and down one time during that process.

I would start by adjusting the lifters, to see if one is slightly loose. I like to set mine (assuming hydraulics) at zero lash plus 1/4 turn.

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In no way does that indicate a bad (or noisy) lifter. It just means that particular cam lobe is actuating the valve. You would always see a few like that. Rotate the engine slowly by hand and you'll see they all move (eventually). Two crankshaft rotations will rotate the cam once - each valve will go up and down one time during that process.

I would start by adjusting the lifters, to see if one is slightly loose. I like to set mine (assuming hydraulics) at zero lash plus 1/4 turn.

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Thanks Dave. It's comforting to know that the position is apparently normal. But...I have no idea how to adjust them or what zero lash even means.

Kevin, nuthin wrong with that valve... it's on #7 intake stroke is all. Did you decide it wasn't the header gasket? I think you need to put the VC back on and investigate that first.

Kevin, nuthin wrong with that valve... it's on #7 intake stroke is all. Did you decide it wasn't the header gasket? I think you need to put the VC back on and investigate that first.

I guess I felt like I bolted up the headers as tight as possible yesterday, Tim, and decided to pull the cover today. I suppose I really need to take the headers off and look at the gasket. At least you guys are making me feel better about the valves :). The engine has less than 1500mi since rebuild (rebuilt right before I bought it).

While you're at it have a good look at the #1 and #5 plug wires. Hard to be sure with my head turned sideways lookin at the pic :) but 1 seems real close to the tube and 5 looks like it has a dark spot maybe arcing to the dipstick.

Kev, assuming the noise is on that side, the first thing you need to do is unbolt the header and eyeball that gasket. Those things are paper, once they start to burn through, all the tightening in the world isn't gonna fix it. If its leaking, you'll know when you hold the gasket in your hand. If it's not, put it back on, if it is, get a new one.

As the guys said above, an engine's valves are constantly opening and closing, and depending on where it is when it stops, any combination of valves could be open, closed, or somewhere in between.

There are lots of posts here on adjusting valves, the hard way or the messy way. Short version: If one valve on one cylinder is visibly open far, then the other should be closed all the way. If you grab the pushrod on the one that is not open, you may be able to spin it, but it should NOT move up and down at all.

If you have the means to rotate the engine, you can check them all in a short time.
A remote starter switch is best. It's not good to try to rotate the engine with the crank bolt, particularly with the plugs in.

What Tim just posted is good too. Some of those wires, especially number one, are all over the headers, not a good thing. A little black dot on a plug wire that won't wash off is highly suspect.

While you're at it have a good look at the #1 and #5 plug wires. Hard to be sure with my head turned sideways lookin at the pic :) but 1 seems real close to the tube and 5 looks like it has a dark spot maybe arcing to the dipstick.

LOL. I wondered if someone was going to mention that. No, there is plenty of clearance on both wires. I did have a different one burn a bit when it hit the tube last summer, but they're good to go. In fact, when I do buy a new set I'll have to get alternating 90* & 135* boots, as they fit best this way in this car.

Thanks for joining in Jim. Yep, it's just the photo that makes the wires look so close. There's at least 1/2" gap on that first wire.

I will do as suggested and what I mentioned earlier; pull the header off and check gasket. I'll let you guys know what I find out and go from there.

Hmmm, I'm sure there are plenty of lifter-adjusting tutorials here. But if you've never done it, then I'd suggest getting a hot rodder buddy to help you out, and he can show you with hands-on training. If you mess up just one rocker setting, you could actually do a lot of damage or even possibly blow up the engine.

Check all the stuff mentioned, but IMO an arcing wire will not produce a loud ticking. It will cause a miss or loss of power, or maybe some backfiring.

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Hmmm, I'm sure there are plenty of lifter-adjusting tutorials here. But if you've never done it, then I'd suggest getting a hot rodder buddy to help you out, and he can show you with hands-on training. If you mess up just one rocker setting, you could actually do a lot of damage or even possibly blow up the engine.

Check all the stuff mentioned, but IMO an arcing wire will not produce a loud ticking. It will cause a miss or loss of power, or maybe some backfiring.

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Thanks again, Dave. Yep, I won't touch that part until I've read more and have some assistance, as you suggested.

It appears that it may indeed, be the gasket. This is the best angle I can get (damn oil stick tube has always been my nemesis on this car :)) Whaddya think? If you can't see, it appears that the gasket is either/or burned or torn at the end. But to me, this stuff isn't obvious. Also, is any kind of gasket seal used for this type of gasket? It appears to be stuck on around each port, but not between.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/dbx/Rockers003.jpg

The gaskets only touch the head around the ports, not in the gap between 1-3 and 5-7. And yes they get stuck.

The "hook" you see under the last bolthole is normal, they do that so you can start the first and last bolt to hold the header in plce, then slip the gasket in.

It's real hard to tel from that angle, but it does look to me that it was leaking pretty badly. Go find a new gasket, get that thing off, and post another pic.

The gaskets only touch the head around the ports, not in the gap between 1-3 and 5-7. And yes they get stuck.

The "hook" you see under the last bolthole is normal, they do that so you can start the first and last bolt to hold the header in plce, then slip the gasket in.

It's real hard to tel from that angle, but it does look to me that it was leaking pretty badly. Go find a new gasket, get that thing off, and post another pic.

Yep, I'll peel it off, but there may not be much left to be able to tell or take a pic of. I'll see. I guess I'll go the cheap/fast route and head to AZ.

Well, 2hrs and $30 later......a new aluminum gasket didn't solve it :(. I had my son dbl check my hearing and he thinks it's coming from the same area, but not sure if it's the header or inside the valve cover. The aluminum gasket seemed like it took forever to keep tightening it down, but it's snug and it leads me to believe it's gotta be inside the valve cover.

Dang, that's too bad. It sure looked like a bad gasket in the pic. Sometimes you can actually feel the leak around a header gasket. With engine running, just reach down in that area where you suspect a leak and if it's a bad leak, you'll feel puffs of exhaust gas on your fingers. Of course, it's real easy to get burned doing this, so consider yourself warned!

Dang, that's too bad. It sure looked like a bad gasket in the pic. Sometimes you can actually feel the leak around a header gasket. With engine running, just reach down in that area where you suspect a leak and if it's a bad leak, you'll feel puffs of exhaust gas on your fingers. Of course, it's real easy to get burned doing this, so consider yourself warned!

Well, I had some extra time to check it out today.

The good news: It's definitely an exhaust leak between the two middle ports (3&5). I used a tube and funnel as a stethoscope....and sure enough. Phew!

The bad news: I was able to tighten down the bolts a bit more...but still can't rid myself of the ticking. God, I hate those bolts being right up against the tubes:mad:. I broke one cheap 7/16" wrench, and the bolt heads are even becoming "soft" on the edges.

It's probably got something to do with these nice, $30 aluminum Percy "Seal-4-Good" flange gaskets not seating right. Damn it, I probably should have stuck with cheap paper. I mean, you guide the bolts through the holes and they look aligned, but......:confused:. I wish I could get a socket on these bolts, but that ain't gonna happen. And that bolt nearest the firewall is always fun:sad:. Anybody got a trick for working with these?

But all in all, I'm quite relieved it's an exhaust leak and not a valve/rocker.:thumbsup:

I've had my best luck with Mr Gaslet or Hooker paper gaskets. Tried the soft alluminum ones, they didn't seal.

I'm trying some fancy one from Earls this time, we'll see.

As for the bolts, well they are always fun. Last year I bought a set of really fancy bolts. They have a 3/8" hex head (small, easier to get a wrench on) and an allen (a ball head allen works good to get that last one!) They also have "locks" that are held on with e-clips, keep the bolts from coming loose. They did that all last year, but still burned out the paper gaskets by the end of the season.

I've had my best luck with Mr Gaslet or Hooker paper gaskets. Tried the soft alluminum ones, they didn't seal.

I'm trying some fancy one from Earls this time, we'll see.

As for the bolts, well they are always fun. Last year I bought a set of really fancy bolts. They have a 3/8" hex head (small, easier to get a wrench on) and an allen (a ball head allen works good to get that last one!) They also have "locks" that are held on with e-clips, keep the bolts from coming loose. They did that all last year, but still burned out the paper gaskets by the end of the season.

I recall you talking about those bolts, now that you mention it. These are 3/8" course (or med?) threaded bolts, aren't they? I may end up needing to replace one or two, but I might look into something like you're talking about. Where did you get em' Jim?

Lots of times, if it's a cheap set of headers, it could just be poor mating surface, so you may never get a tight seal...............

Lots of times, if it's a cheap set of headers, it could just be poor mating surface, so you may never get a tight seal...............

Well, they sealed well enough with paper to last over a year, so I suspect that the thick paper gaskets may allow for the best mating surface.

The bolts I got were these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS%2DM%2D9432%2DA51&autoview=sku

Since they are for a Ford, I have 2 extras!

The bolts I got were these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS%2DM%2D9432%2DA51&autoview=sku

Since they are for a Ford, I have 2 extras!

Don't you mean 4 extras? :D

Cool, but dang...$58?!! I'll have to think about that :)

If you need new gaskets and have a problem with the ones you have now try these, i had a leak and tried lots of the gaskets mentioned here and still had leaks untill i used these.

http://catalog.remflex.com/Default.asp

Those look cool. The Earls gaskets I'm trying this year are kind of similar, they have an alluminum "flange" with replaceable graphite inserts for each port.

I just installed some new header bolts this evening and the job went pretty smooth. These are the bolts I used. http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-46723-Header-Bolt-Allen/dp/B0008G5G0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1203056348&sr=1-2

The ball head allen tool works great to snug em up! I used a 7/16 angle head wrench for the final tightening.

To conclude this thread.... I just got back from a driveline shop with my new 3.37 rear gears. After the hour drive in Atlanta's Friday rush hour (damn it :)), after parking in the garage I decided to see if I could further tighten down the bolts since the new Mr. Gasket gaskets were good and hot. Voila!!! I cranked her up again and not a sound! It's been a great day:cool:

As usual, thanks for all your help, guys!:thumbsup:


Oh, JimM....while at the shop earlier, the guy almost gave me the allen head bolts for the headers. However.......they were 1/4" too long:(. And I actually think he'd have just let me have a handful the way he was talking. When I told him Summit's price he just shook his head. Oh well......