hI Guys , my 69 goes and runs perfect , but if i shut it down to get fuel or whatever it acts like the battery is nearly dead ? Usually after a run or when its hot. any ideas what to fix or change ?
Regards , Gavin in Australia

sounds like heat soak problem on the starter/ solenoid, they sell heat shield for the starter. You can also get a remote solenoid from MADD ( I think thats the brand .... at least here in the states)

I had the same problem. The fix was to get a Hot Start Spring. It's the spring that is in the starter solenoid. I went to a GM dealer and picked one up for around $10.00. It looks exactly like the original except it is shorter in length. Never had a problem since.

Mariano

heat sheilding starter rap worked for me

i think there may be three things working against you: heat creates resistance in electrical wiring. vapor lock could set in with high underhood temps. lastly, when the engine is shut down hot, the oil is thinner and will more of it will run down the cylinder walls creating more friction for starting.

Covered in detail in older threads

IMHO beware of the ford solenoid "fix" for this issue. The others have hilighted the most common issues. I have an aluminum heat shield on my starter. I never have used the wrap insulation because I thought it would cause a rust problem. I've heard of the hot start spring - sounds interesting and cheap. A bad ignition switch can cause you problems also.

If you connect a volt meter between the hot power feed and the 'S' terminal of your starter solenoid, you can see how much voltage is being dropped by the electrical system. I would expect you to see less than 1.0 volts drop at the starter solenoid (hopefully less than that). The start circuit travels through the firewall bulkhead connector twice, the ignition switch, the neutral satefty switch, and several feet of wire. All of those things can increase resistance as heat builds up. You wouldn't think the ignition switch would get hot, but if it has a bad connection in it to begin with, just having vehicle acc and ign circuits powered on for a length of time can cause it to heat up and misbehave.

Panless Wiring has a fix for this. Its a small box, about the size of a match box with wires that connect to the starter and a full 12 volt source. This ensures a full load to the starter. Any speed shop has it for around $35. Take about 30 min to install. The shield idea is good, but most of the time it's a resistance problem in old wiring.

Sometimes having the timing too far advanced will cause the same effect. It will start fine cold and act like a really low battery when it's hot.

Sometimes having the timing too far advanced will cause the same effect. It will start fine cold and act like a really low battery when it's hot.

That's the first thing I would check.

Have you installed headers recently?

And when all those idea don't work, get a mini starter from Summit. Yep, tried them all (except the spring. never heard of it) The original starter is in the 'memory-parts' box now. That's a good place for it. I got tired of replacing the brushes everytime I touched it. It went through brushes like crazy because of all the load placed on it. Did I mention that my 'start' problem is now fixed?