For 68 Camaro RS GM Repo "Rally SPort" and "327" emblem barrel nuts? 1/8" ?

Baby, you need an assembly manual. It's all in there.

As a guide I used a dial caliper and measured the stud size and used a drill bit that was the next standard (numeric or fractional) size larger. Test it on a piece of scrap sheet metal. You can always make the hole bigger. You cannot make them exactly the same size since getting the emblem holes perfectly lined up is tough. Use the emblem as a template. Make sure that you put that same emblem back in the same place and not the opposite side, especially the rally-sport emblems.

I bought the templates from Ricks, so I should be ok. They have the bit sizes on them but I just wanted to get "in experience" replies. But you know, for the life of me I dont know why I didnt think of practice holes on sheet metal (color me stupid), but I dont drill a lot lol. On a seperate issue, CARLC, you said that your Moroso Bezels had to be ground down. Did you get the improved heavy duty rubber seals that is offered as a replacement for the tailights? It is in "Ricks" catalog page 121. I have a suspicion that Moroso made them to compliment that seal.

Baby68-
Reference those Moroso tailights bezels. Mine came with the backing holes (the ones used to attached the rear socket housing) with no way to screw in anything. My understanding is that you and I will need to by self-tapping screws to secure housing.

Baby,

I also used the template kit. I would recommend that you use it only as a general placement guide. I found that finding and aligning the guide to the bodypanel creases to be very difficult. I used a straightedge and level to determine correct emblem alignment. DO NOT TRUST THE HOLE PATTERN ON THE TEMPLATE! They did not exactly match the emblem mounting studs. Use the emblem that you are going to mount in that location as your drilling template. If you rely only on the template some of the emblems may not mount and you will have to open up the hole. That can get real ugly in a hurry.

For the Moroso bezels, there are two problems with the parts I used. There are two seals used in the rear lights; the body rubber and the lens seal. The lens seal is compressed when the housing (the piece that holds the bulb) is screwed down by some self tapping screws. These screws screw into bosses cast into the bezel. These bosses were too tall and would not compress the lens seal. This allows water to enter between the lens and the seal. The fix is to grind down the mounting bosses and drill deeper holes. That fixes the first problem. The second is with the mounting lugs that mount the bezel/housing to the car. The original parts used a machine screw cast into the OEM bezel that used a either a 1/4"-20 or 5/16-18" machine screw to attach them to the body. The Moroso parts use a tapered cast lug in which a sheet-metal stamped nut is used instead of a machine screw/nut. The sheet-metal nuts are not very strong and it is difficult to apply sufficient torque to adequately compress the aft. moulded rubber seal. I can just get barely enough torque to keep water from entering the trunk but it's dicey. For that kind of money I really expected better. It's the same saying as before, "If it's aftermarket you're going to have to modify it."

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Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc

And yes Baby, I used the molded rubber seals. The other, less expensive, seal is made of flat closed-cell foam.

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Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc