: Help!! 84 Z28 Wont Start
Sam117 Feb 24th, 08, 03:55 PM I recently bought a 84 z28 with the 5.0L HO 5spd. as far as mods go all it has is a full isky cam. I was driving home the other day and she let out two pops, a puff of smoke from under the center of the hood(by windshield) and died. I have no check engine light on. My stock rochester cpu controlled carb had been acting up recently so it was my first shot and fixing my issue. replaced the carb with an identical refurb and still wouldnt start. next shot was at spark, though i didnt go into much depth. I replaced the basics, cap rotor plugs and wires(points were rusted and slightly corroded) and i dont want to go out and spend 150 bucks on a new coil. Long story short im $400 into this and im tired of guessing. i was hoping maybe someone might have some things for me to look at and consider. I have limited tools and no current tester or code reader. can anyone please help me? im desperate
Maro68 Feb 24th, 08, 06:19 PM Do you have a spark at the plugs when you turn it over?
Could it have possibly jumped time?
Just suggestions....you'll get some more shortly from some very smart techs.........Good luck
Sam117 Feb 24th, 08, 06:57 PM That was the last thing i was going to check but the weather has been very unfair lately. as far as the timing goes, i just did it less than a month ago so i hope not. i appreciate your response. take care brotha
middleagecrisis Feb 24th, 08, 07:36 PM Before you spend any more money I'd do a compression check and make sure you didn't jump time (the timing chain, not distributor) or have a bent valve. Then if all your cylinders check okay (within 10% of each other), see if you have spark, then fuel. If one of those things is off, it isn't going to run.
Sam117 Feb 24th, 08, 10:09 PM Do you think running a diagnostic on the code reader would tell me that? i have a buddy who is bringing one by tomorrow. hoping it will let me know whats up but i am still very open to more suggestions. this has been great so far as it is my first thread. i appreciate the help guys.
Everett#2390 Feb 25th, 08, 05:05 AM Very first item on the list to do is to buy a Haynes manual for the car and read it, then read it again.
Then borrow a compression gauge as Tom suggests. You have to make sure the mechanicals of the block check out okay before repairing ancillary systems. You have to have a good compression in order to feed it with fuel and light it with fire.
Sam117 Feb 25th, 08, 02:25 PM ya ive got a chiltons and have gone through all of the troubleshooting issues. im thinking its an ignition/spark issue more than anything but ill try to get ahold of a compression tester.
dnult Feb 25th, 08, 09:06 PM Could be lots of things. I'd be curious about the timing chain having jumped a tooth or three. But check the simple stuff first (like spark) and hope for the best.
Sam117 Feb 25th, 08, 10:31 PM ya. after running the code reader it came up with no detected problems. my buddy came by with one of the nicest on the market so ill trust it... im going to go out and buy a timing light but im not entirely sure of what to set the timing at with the cam. it was put in before i bought it. i think the last mechanic that did it said that it was set at like +4. sound right anyone?
Everett#2390 Feb 26th, 08, 05:03 AM So this engine has an aftermarket camshaft? 4° BTDC reads alittle low, might try 6°-8° BTDC.
Buy a screw in compression gauge or borrow one from your friend.
Cyclopsblown34 Feb 26th, 08, 10:13 AM Pull the distributor cap and disconnect the power wire for the coil.
Have somebody turn the engine over.
If the rotor isn't turning, you broke the cam or chain.
If the rotor turns do the following.
Reconnect the coil power and reassemble the cap to the distributor.
Check for spark .
If you have spark, you can check ignition timing to see if it jumped.
If it jumped, Check the cam timing to the crank timing pointer and the distributor.
Bring the timing mark to 0 position and make certain number one plug is at top dead center.
Either the exhaust valve will be wide open or the valves will both be closed and the rockers wobbly.
Sam117 Feb 26th, 08, 12:57 PM sounds like a plan. as far as the degree on my timing goes the 6 sounds about right. yes it is an aftermarket camshaft from isky racing. you guys have been so helpful in your responses i had no idea how informative these forums can be. im going to check the rotor as the previous gentlemen said, and check for spark. if that doesnt get me anywhere ill just be towin it to a shop. pullin my hair out about this car and i need to get it running. almost thinkin i may need to bite the bullet.... still open to more suggestions. the ones so far are amazing. do i need to delete this thread when im done or should i leave it for others to look up?????
Sam117 Feb 26th, 08, 01:17 PM another quick question, if the timing chain had broke i woulda made alot of noise when it happened, and i would be hearing it when i crank the car over, right?
Sam117 Feb 26th, 08, 04:02 PM and yet another quick question. i was told by a guy i know that if i advance or retart my distributor fully and try to start it(and i does) thats a sure sign i jumped some teeth. make sense?
dnult Feb 26th, 08, 05:58 PM I'm not sure about your second question - A or R timing and engine starts. I've never experienced that one.
When timing chains go, in my experience (3 times) the engine shut down fine and would never start again. The timing chain didn't break, the nylon tips of the OEM timing gear wore down until the chain chumped forward a few teeth. When cranking, they'd cough and fart and occationally backfire through the carb (petroleum hair cut).
Everett#2390 Feb 26th, 08, 06:35 PM (petroleum hair cut).Love the singed hair smell - goes along with the haircut...............LOL
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