I have new doors and am re-assembling the guts.
The "cam channels" and regulators appear to be galvinized, zinc coated or maybe even stainless?
The slides were dusty and nasty with old grease, but no rust.

I've got everything cleaned up, and wondered if I should paint them??
No one is going to see them, but I didn't know if they would rust?


Mods - I found some good pics in the Body by Fisher manual. I have 2 nice PDF's of the door hardware assmebly. They are too big to post as an attachment, but I thought other members might benefit from these. Is there a place I can upload or email these?

Tony, email them to me. We'll try to get them added to the body sticky. Gonne be tough with Joe in the middle east.

sent.

Sorry I deleted the first stuff. I did not mean too. OOPs!!!
ALL THE CLOTH COVER BRACKETS GO IN FIRST, BUT OUT OF THE WAY.
HAVE ALL THE WEATHER STRIPPING BEFORE YOU EVEN BEGIN.
SEE IF ANYONE ELSE HAS THE BACKORDER.
Sounds like you have a good start. I would not paint because the original was not painted. And like you said, no one sees anyway. If it is a part that will rust easily or is rusted bad, or will rust quickly in the future, or shows THEN I would paint it. I have already described that part on your door.

Level does not really have anything to do with it. The secret of aligning the doors is to understand how EACH adjustment piece help to move the glass. I think the secret is aligning the glass TO the drip rail rubber molding. You can put a sheet of paper in sections to see how tight they are or aren’t. If you are using the old rubber you are at a disadvantage, because you are lining it up with a worn out piece. Hopefully you have replaced the rubber seals/moldings and the rubber moldings ON the door.

Have the rear window completely closed and forget it when aligning the front window. Get the front window aligned perfect to the drip rail molding before you even touch the rear window. THIS IS NOT ENTIRELY TRUE IF YOU ARE NOT REPLACING THE MOLDINGS.

Relax, if you have not done it before and realize that you might take 2 days to do this (more if you need more parts). And, you might have to take completely apart more than once if something is broke or not right. Some times you just take apart and start all over because NOW you get it.

MAKE SURE YOUR DOORS ARE SHIMMED RIGHT SO THE SIDE BEND OF THE SHEET METAL (fenders & quarters) LINES UP AND THE TOP OF THE DOOR LINES UP WITH THE TOP OF THE QUARTER DOOR, NOT PERFECT BUT GOOD. SHIMMING THE DOORS IS EASIER WITH 2 PEOPLE. Have an assortment of U-Shims. Also, measure the distance of the opening that the glass goes into on both the doors and the quarters. From whisker seal to whisker seal, but measure before you install the whisker seals. (LOL) If they are NEW sheet metal, most body shops do not check this gap. If that gap is too small, you will never get the windows to seal right. Harder to make to big. I have aligned cars that this gap was always wrong and the door never worked right in the past.

Good luck and have lots of patience. You will get good at it. Expect it to be hard and pray for luck. Then you will be done in ½ day. RIGHT! Pay attention to how each turn moves the glass. Don’t be afraid to write down what each adjustment piece does to the glass. If you are young and impatient it will take you longer, don't be frustrated by that. Who cares!!

Install the STOPS on the mechanisms, but DOING NOTHING until you get to your final adjustments. They are just to tip the long part of the glass to make SMALL final adjustments. You will know when it is time to use them. Your glass will be almost perfect when you do.

Thanks Dale..
This is a '68'vert, www.ColoradoCamaro.com (http://www.ColoradoCamaro.com)

I like the "laquer thinner", "blow dry" and "lithium grease" suggestion for the channels.
My runners are surpisingly clean, no rust or pits after 104,000 miles.
Just a litle white oxidation..
..which is why I suspected some kind of factory coating.

I removed everything a few years ago.
Its a little overwhelming when you look at the pile of loose tracks, bolts and brackets.
The Body by Fisher made everything go together very easy.
I'm swapping manual regs for power, and am very impressed so far.

As you can see by my profile pic, I'm a little anal when it comes to DP-90.
It just seemed normal to paint the channels..(I'm glad I asked)

Any suggestions on aligning the window?
Should I start making it level first, or front-to-back distance?
Do the glass guides (cloth covered brackets) go in last?
How about the up-down stops? are they last in the sequence?

My pillar weather stripping has been on back-order with Classic Industries for 10 months.
Will I need to allow some distance when aligning? or should I just plan on re-aligning when the weather strip arrives?

I added more to the above if you did not notice.
Good luck.