On my 69 Camaro, because it is tubbed, I cannot use the factory rear door panel, but instead, I had to modify the metal section of the rear door panel and now would like to buy the lower section and attach the two. How does the factory attach these two items, metal to vinyl and is it hard to do? Also, how hard is it to recover the top (metal) of the panels?

Thanks
Bruce

Glued on.
If i'm tracking you right. You have the panel top piece, the hard metal right? But dont have the vinyl bottom. The vinyl is glued onto the metal. Its not to hard to revocer them, but I heard there are issues at times with new repop stuff.

The metal pieces are factory items and I had to reworked them to fit in with the tubs. I plan on buying the vinyl bottoms and they'll probably need trimmed also. I just wasn't sure how the two got joined together. Will 3M spray adhesive work?


thanks
Bruce

Bruce,
I have a prostreet 69 and had the same problem. On your metal piece they were crimped on thru the cardboard from the factory. Where that crimp is I grinded it flat with the metal so the new panels would sit flush with the metal. I used aluminum pop rivets to hold the panel to the metal piece. I just drilled a hole where the old crimp was. I also used a flat washer on the back of the panel rivet. I was afraid the rivet would pull thru the cardboard. They make flat washers for the rivets. Just make sure the rivets arent too long. I then used the 3M glue to glue the fabric to the metal. The weatherstrip will hold the material on at the top. I also used pop rivets to attach the weatherstrip and painted the heads black so you would not see them. Then slowly trim the card board around the tub. Dont cut off to much.

Mike,
That's a good idea using the washers. I think I'll do too.
Do you have any pictures of this area for me to look at?
I can't use your link because our work has a firewall.
If you could send me a few interior shots, I'd appreciate it.
You can send them to broland@thermalsolutions.com

Thanks
Bruce

I did the same as ProStreet, but instead of pop riveting, I used just the rivet portion. I think I pounded the clinches flat rather than grinding them off, and after aligning everything on the door, marked and drilled at every clinch. I pushed the rivets through from the back, and used a grommeting tool to flare out the rivet. That way you don't have the pop rivet "nub" If you use the pop rivets the normal way, you will see the nubs when you look down into the window slot.

I then smeared some epoxy over the riveted area, to eliminate the possibility of feeling the rivets through the door panel vinyl, and sanded it smooth. Then I folded the vinyl over the cap and glued it to temporarily hold it. When you reinstall the inner fuzzies, they will permanently hold the vinyl in place.

Thanks for the help guys :thumbsup: .
How hard is it to re-cover the metal piece?

Bruce

Bruce, I dont have any pictures. Just make sure your metal is clean. I use the scotch brite disc on a angle grinder to get all the rust off then use some rattle can paint on the metal. Your material will stick right to it. I have had problems with the vinyl coming unglued so I take some air conditioning alumiunim tape. I use the 2" tape and make strips out of it and stick it on the edge of the vinyl and cardboard. This is on the back side where you dont see it. It is the best tape I have found to stick. I dont use duct tape because it always comes off.

2" metal tape, love that stuff. I use it in our lab to mock up everything and it holds great.
Thanks for the tip.

Bruce