I just pulled the points dist out of my 671 blown 350 and was wondering what everyone recommended as being the best type to run? I would like it to be easy to change the mech advance and either plan on running it locked out or with a 10* mech advance, also must have vacuum advance and can't be an HEI unit. I have been told to stay away from the mallory uni-lite's and was looking at the msd distributors. Name brand doesnt really make a difference to me but I want the best working unit for the price. I have a msd digital 6 box here that I will install within the next few months, but it probably wont be for a while cause i'm lazy.

also last question, how hard is it to configure the mech timing on a stock chevy distributor. I would like to recurve it so I could still run it over the next few days while i wait for my new dizzy to get here. The thing pulls over 40 on mech advance right now and revving the thing up high scares me!!

why stay away from the unilites?
I used one for years with not a single problem?
best bet is a unilite with a low profile blower cap.
I installed one on my brothers blown motor
not a single issue
http://webpages.charter.net/harrycoon/blower3.JPG

why stay away from the unilites?
I used one for years with not a single problem?
best bet is a unilite with a low profile blower cap.
I installed one on my brothers blown motor
not a single issue
http://webpages.charter.net/harrycoon/blower3.JPG
the unilite module burns up easily as they require less than 12v I think the complaint was, and they are like $90 to replace.

i've actually been debating at keeping the points, any opinions for this? I need to figure how to recurve the mech adv on them.

I believe the Unilite is the way to go!.....I have a couple Unilites for sale, one with vacuum advance and the other a mechanical advance only....They both have good modules.....Let me know if interested:thumbsup::beers:

I believe the Unilite is the way to go!.....I have a couple Unilites for sale, one with vacuum advance and the other a mechanical advance only....They both have good modules.....Let me know if interested:thumbsup::beers:
pm me a price or if you can a price and a pic to darkostoj@gmail.com intersted in the vac advance one.

in 20 years i never had a module go on me?

I just bought MSD digital E-curve and I love it. Worth looking at. Clears my tunnel ram. It has 100 different settings and all can be set with 2 dials. I run mine locked at 34* w/ a 15* start retard. Set the 2 dials and go. Easy.

Darko...Do you frequent the Woodward/13 mile area.i will watch for your blown Camaro.I have a silver 68 with a in the works blown 8-71 468.The shell station at Normandy is always a good bet for hotrodders.Great guys also at the gramophone in birmingham.:yes:

Darko...Do you frequent the Woodward/13 mile area.i will watch for your blown Camaro.I have a silver 68 with a in the works blown 8-71 468.The shell station at Normandy is always a good bet for hotrodders.Great guys also at the gramophone in birmingham.:yes:
heres a video of the car, keep an eye out for me

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IB2sgs_1JpY

If you already have the MSD 6 box why don't you just get one of their Pro-Billet Distributors? It's a simple plug in. I know you said you haven't installed the box yet because you're lazy, but they are a very easy install.

I've used A MSD 6AL with the Pro Billet Dist on both of my blown Pro Street rides with no issues ever.



.

Darko,
Let me offer my opinion and I have a question. With a 6-71 on a SBC there is plenty of room, even with the 8-71 on my SBC there is room. You really do not need a crab or low profile cap. I personally run a Mallory distributor but, it is not a Unilite. The one I have doesn't have a module (photo cell), it uses a magnetic pick-up. No module to burn out, rock solid timing and I can set my initial and advance any way I wish. I run 18-20* initial and then another 12-14* mechanical. It is a small body distributor so clearance is no issue. If you want a part number let me know. Why does it have to have vacuum advance? I do not run vacuum advance and don't really see why you would want to.

If you really plan to run the MSD box then a MSD Billet distributor would be my second choice. I am not a fan of MSD boxes though, for the same reason people told you to stay away from Unilites, I have seen too many MSD boxes go out. I have run Unilite distributors in the past and never had a module fail though I have seen them fail and it is 99.9% the fault of the installer (voltage to high). I know you are limited on the timing set-up with some of the MSD distributors that use bushings so look out for that. With the Mallory magnetic distributor you are not limited and there will be no need to lock out timing. There are "keys" that you use to set the timing, you install the desired degree key tighten up the screw and remove the key, and the initial timing is set. As you can tell I highly recommend that distributor for any blown application (it has everything you need). Mallory also makes a boost/timing retard that will plug right in if you ever want to do that. As for ignition boxes, my personal favorite is Crane, no chips or modules to fool with, rock solid reliability, excellent customer service (if needed).

Mallory magnetic breakerless distributor w/ MSD 6-BTM. 18 initial / 32 total timing.
5 years / 4000 miles.

ok so here is what I did

I cannabalized my other 67 camaro in the garage and took off the mallory unilite dist (no vac advance) and the accel super coil #14001 I installed it with 30* locked out timing and it works much much better. I installed the dist and tightened it down for the first time, and when i started it up it was at a dead on 30* timing (i'm not that good but it felt great) I didnt install the msd box yet, but the concern I have now is that I'm not sure if I can hear it detonating or not because the car is super loud with the exhaust and the whining blower. I still havent got the bungs welded in for my fast wideband O2. Next on the list is swapping the pullies from 12% underdrive to 12% overdrive and adding the water injection.

One last quick question, the car pulls like mad when I go from part throttle to WOT, but when i'm at idle or real low throttle and nail it, it doesnt backfire or sputter or anything like that, it just startes taking off reaaaaal slow...is this due to not having enough of a accel pump shot? Hopefully the wideband 02 will tell me what it is when i get it installed, but for now i'd still like to speculate.

Darko,
I doubt your acceleration issue is the pump shot. If the pump shot was to small or short. you would get a lean backfire out of the blower. Was this problem there before making the distributor/timing change? If not I would look more at the timing. I personally wouldn't run 30* with it locked out. There are times that you do not want 30* of timing like low speed high load conditions, which would be accelerating from a dead stop or low speed. Unless you have a stall speed that is high enough to keep the engine RPM high enough to eliminate the need for variable timing (this would depend on your combination) you could very easily be having detonation issues at lower speeds. I would seriously think about getting a distribtor that allows you to have a timing curve, it is needed for a blown engine that will see street action unless the gearing, stall, etc.. is set on kill along with the timing.

Darko,
I doubt your acceleration issue is the pump shot. If the pump shot was to small or short. you would get a lean backfire out of the blower. Was this problem there before making the distributor/timing change? If not I would look more at the timing. I personally wouldn't run 30* with it locked out. There are times that you do not want 30* of timing like low speed high load conditions, which would be accelerating from a dead stop or low speed. Unless you have a stall speed that is high enough to keep the engine RPM high enough to eliminate the need for variable timing (this would depend on your combination) you could very easily be having detonation issues at lower speeds. I would seriously think about getting a distribtor that allows you to have a timing curve, it is needed for a blown engine that will see street action unless the gearing, stall, etc.. is set on kill along with the timing.

i have a 4 speed so I don't have to worry about the stall. The problem I have with my mallory dist is that the key I have only adjusts it down to 16* mech advance so I wouldnt be able to get as much initial as I wanted. It is a night and day difference with the performance of the car after the dist/coil change. If I peg the throttle at idle in the driveway I do not get a crisp acceleration and there is a hesitation still, but a much smaller one. Also if I get on it from a real low rpm it will start to pull slowly, then backfire, It pulls hard if i'm cruising at 3,000 rpm and go to WOT. I will know for sure whats going on once I install the wideband 02, I am just worried if I am detonating or not because I can't really tell right now because the car is so loud.

Well since you have a manual tranny, what rear gears do you have? It pulls from 3,000 RPM without hesitation so, what happens if you are in 1st gear shift to 2nd and the RPM's are at 1500 and you nail the throttle, What happens then? Does it backfire and stall or just pop a little through the carb?

Roots blowers are known for their lowend torque. Your throttle response with 30* initial should be silly. Something is off for sure. What do you have for carbs?

Well since you have a manual tranny, what rear gears do you have? It pulls from 3,000 RPM without hesitation so, what happens if you are in 1st gear shift to 2nd and the RPM's are at 1500 and you nail the throttle, What happens then? Does it backfire and stall or just pop a little through the carb?

Roots blowers are known for their lowend torque. Your throttle response with 30* initial should be silly. Something is off for sure. What do you have for carbs?

I am not sure what rear gears it has, the previous owner said it had 3.73, but to be honest with the way it takes off in first and how long the gears last I think it has to be something lower(numerically). In first when I take off I feel like I need to baby the clutch just to get it rolling. Everything with driving the car seems to work fine and it barely ever backfires, it just does it if I try to go from a low RPM to WOT....and the backfire isn't instant either, it just starts building rpm very slowly, and then it will pop out of the carb a second or two later and then take off like a bat out of hell after that.

I have the edelbrock 600's and tuned them out to what edelbrock recommends for running a 671 on a 350 for a good baseline....I fattened the secondaries up quite a bit and installed the high flow needles and seats. I wasn't going to mess with it anymore until i got the wideband installed.

I suspected you had Edelbrocks. I really can't offer much help with them in a blown application. I know some guys say they work but, most blower shops will tell you to ditch the Edelbrocks. I was helping a guy that had a set on his blown car and it would do much like you describe (flat spots). I tuned and tuned but, couldn't get them to run right at every RPM. He bought a set of Holleys and I had them tuned in less than 30 minutes and the car ran 10X's better. Mike (Tokyo Torquer) from this site runs Edelbrocks and he seems to like them. Bottom line they are not the best for a blower and in my opinion, I wouldn't run them. I understand that you have to work with what you have. I just can't help with the Edelbrocks, sorry.

I would also investigate your gear ratio, that plays a large role in your acceleration. From the sounds of it I doubt you have 3.73's.

I suspected you had Edelbrocks. I really can't offer much help with them in a blown application. I know some guys say they work but, most blower shops will tell you to ditch the Edelbrocks. I was helping a guy that had a set on his blown car and it would do much like you describe (flat spots). I tuned and tuned but, couldn't get them to run right at every RPM. He bought a set of Holleys and I had them tuned in less than 30 minutes and the car ran 10X's better. Mike (Tokyo Torquer) from this site runs Edelbrocks and he seems to like them. Bottom line they are not the best for a blower and in my opinion, I wouldn't run them. I understand that you have to work with what you have. I just can't help with the Edelbrocks, sorry.

I would also investigate your gear ratio, that plays a large role in your acceleration. From the sounds of it I doubt you have 3.73's.
i would think that even though I don't have that much rear gear the massive low end torque that these 671's are supposed to have would more than make up for it. I'm gonna get the wideband installed this week sometime and will be able to tune up the carbs properly hopefully!

another funky thing. I am at 10.5% underdriven and i was doing some WOT passes today tinkering with the tune and my new boost gauge is showing 9 pounds of boost! I didnt think I would make that much with it 10.5% underdriven and the decent flowing heads that I have.

The boost will vary depending on the load. 6-71 on a 350ci engine, correct? I think the boost level is about right. I don't see a problem with it. Honestly your car should fry the tires in first or second at any RPM if you romp on it. Something is not right. Since you have 9lbs of boost that isn't your problem. Have you tried to read your plugs? I wonder if you are lean. Look for specs of aluminum on your plugs.

The boost will vary depending on the load. 6-71 on a 350ci engine, correct? I think the boost level is about right. I don't see a problem with it. Honestly your car should fry the tires in first or second at any RPM if you romp on it. Something is not right. Since you have 9lbs of boost that isn't your problem. Have you tried to read your plugs? I wonder if you are lean. Look for specs of aluminum on your plugs.

yes weiand 671 on a 350

plugs show a good mixture at idle, and they actually are just a TAD too rich by looking at them with no specs of aluminum or any signs of detonation on the porcelain. I really think i have some minor issues to work out on the carbs and one of them is I definitely need more pump shot...its got size 28 squirter's in it right now. I took it for a long ride today and i'm definitely getting a lean backfire.