I finally finished my front end rebuild and PS Box conversion to new 3rd Gen Cardone box w/Lee Inserts & rag joint and used stock-style PS hoses. I started up yesterday and noticed a small leak from the larger of the two fittings on the gear box. I shut it down, tightened some more (didn't put enormous force on it but just got another 1/5 turn). Then started it back up and fluid now shooting out in a stream from in between the threads of where the fitting screws into the gear box. Wondering why and if anyone has any ideas. The old hose is fairly new and in good shape. I didn't strip the threads as I made sure it screwed in several threads by hand before tightening. As I understand these fitting threads aren't made for each other but are supposed to work according to other posts. Does anyone have any ideas? Is there an adaptor that's available that could joint the dissimilar threads. I'm thinking 'bout buying another PS hose and trying it but don't want to throw $30 down the drain before getting others opinions/recommendations.

Thank you.

Also - the box fit in just the same as the old one - same 1/8 of clearance between headers and box as original.

Also - I removed the check valve before installing the Lee inserts which seemed to go in flush and as intended.

THe new cardone box gear box (from Checker) came w/O-rings which I assumed weren't necessary for this conversion so did not use them.

I didn't put any teflon tape or thread sealer on the fittings but is this something I should do?

Thanks again!!

those inserts are 'crush' style fittings. keep tightening!

I would check the hose and see if their is a problem with the flared end. I have had to return a hose that had a bad end. Also I had one crack while I was tightening it. The more pressure U put on it the more the end will distort.

those inserts are 'crush' style fittings. keep tightening!


Sounds like you've been there done that? So you think I should keep tightening some more. It feels like I got it fairly tight but possibly that's due to the fact that I can only fit a short handled wrench in the area and also maybe due to the threads not being the same type. I did notice that on the PS line fitting that the threads look like they got slightly flattened - I take it this is due to trying to make the metric box with the standard threads?

"those inserts are 'crush' style fittings. keep tightening!" (guccieng post)


Brake hose banjo copper washers are "crush" style I thought. The Lee inserts I thought were a 45 degree flare "compression" fitting that you have to watch how much torque you put on them.

Don't use teflon tape, not on high pressure hydraulic.

If you can't get the leak to stop, check out my post in the official 3g thread, I listed parts to mate to the 3g box without adaptors - but you have to have a hose converted at a shop which was no big deal.

Don't use teflon tape, not on high pressure hydraulic.

If you can't get the leak to stop, check out my post in the official 3g thread, I listed parts to mate to the 3g box without adaptors - but you have to have a hose converted at a shop which was no big deal.

chops - can I still do this even though I have the Lee inserts already installed? (Imagine would be a pain to remove now?)

You would need to remove the inserts to use chops idea. But your problem is the seal between the inserts and the hose. You shouldn't have this problem if this seats well and is compressed enough. Sounds like your hose connection side is gouged up or was previously overcompressed and so its not making a good seal when the lee insert seats onto the metal surface of the hose flare. You should be able to visually look at it and determine if that is the case, or if something got between the flare on the hose and the insert that prevented a tight seal.

I would also suggest tightening the living $hit out of that fitting :). I also recall a few members here reporting the same issue using the same box and inserts. I also have the same set-up, and because I had read about it beforehand, I tightened away even though it seemed...excessive. No leaks from day one.

I would also suggest tightening the living $hit out of that fitting :). I also recall a few members here reporting the same issue using the same box and inserts. I also have the same set-up, and because I had read about it beforehand, I tightened away even though it seemed...excessive. No leaks from day one.


10-4 that's what I'll do. :yes: I knew I could count on ya'll in this forum to help guide me through this predicament which is keeping me from driving my car - after a long cold winter's worth of laying on my back wrencing on it. Thanks and will report back if that fixes it.

Sounds like you've been there done that? So you think I should keep tightening some more. It feels like I got it fairly tight but possibly that's due to the fact that I can only fit a short handled wrench in the area and also maybe due to the threads not being the same type. I did notice that on the PS line fitting that the threads look like they got slightly flattened - I take it this is due to trying to make the metric box with the standard threads?

i've done the 3rd gen swap to both cars, no problems. appreciate the fact that you don't have a brake line directly underneath the box like a pontiac does!:thumbsup:

i've done the 3rd gen swap to both cars, no problems. appreciate the fact that you don't have a brake line directly underneath the box like a pontiac does!:thumbsup:


That's a nice combo you got w/the '68 Bird & '69 Camaro. My good friend has a 68 Firebird as well and I've helped him rebuild his 400 and take the auto tranny out on numerous occasions. Good cars - gotta like that chrome front bumper and the little chrome shark gills on the side and those slotted tail lights. Yep.

While I am a fan and have converted my 68 to 3rd gen steering I cant agree with using the Lee inserts even though alot of people seem to have success with them. I wonder if you had to remove the hose for a maintenance issue if you could get it to seal properly a second time. This tighten the #$@^ out of it is not right, the threads are a mismatch and the fact that 68rs-ss says the threads are flattening out confirms the threads are distorting/stripping out. Use CHOPS method with the correct metric fitting Thats the way I did it and I have a leak free installation with minimal torque.

While I am a fan and have converted my 68 to 3rd gen steering I cant agree with using the Lee inserts even though alot of people seem to have success with them. I wonder if you had to remove the hose for a maintenance issue if you could get it to seal properly a second time. This tighten the #$@^ out of it is not right, the threads are a mismatch and the fact that 68rs-ss says the threads are flattening out confirms the threads are distorting/stripping out. Use CHOPS method with the correct metric fitting Thats the way I did it and I have a leak free installation with minimal torque.

I think if I were to do it again, I would go with Chops plan cause I inherently have an issue with the idea of mating the dissimilar threads but since so many others have done it decided to go ahead with it and it may be fine once I tighten more. If after I try tightening more doesn't work, than I will go to plan B. But - how the heck would I get those Lee inserts out though? Seems like would be a big pain at this point. I'll have to call Mr. Lee and ask but hopefully won't have to resort to that.

Also - I have an idea to run the male hose fitting through a dye with the coorect 18mm thread pattern. Does anyone think this would be a good or bad idea???

O.k>. I talked to Lee Manf. They are going to send me out an 18mm flare nut. I will cut the tube, install the nut and then make a double flare end. This is what I've decided is the probably the best solution and what people should be doing in the first place. They said they used to include w/ the kits but people didn't like dealing with having to flare their hoses so stopped. I told them they should continue to include as this removes the issue of mating dissimilar threads which just doesn't sit well with me.

Bill, that might work cutting the threads on a die, because the threads are close, although like camjoe63 said your hose flare end maybe damaged already (cracked or out of round) and you may never get it to seat. The inserts can be removed I have read where you can thread a screw into it and pull it out. I think the inserts also dont allow the hose end to get the proper amount of threads to grab in the steering gear like it does when you use the correct metric fitting. The metric o-ring connection is a superior sealing solution.I think when I connected it I hand tightened the hose down then maybe a 1/4 turn more with a wrench and rock solid no-leak seal. I have to wonder what the cardone rebuild jobbers will think when they get all these boxes back someday to refurbish and find all the threads buggered up. The first 3rd gen box I got to swap into my ride I had to return because the threads were already buggered up(stripped out), like someone said "do it right or do it twice"

I am getting confused the more I read into this post. The hoses I purchased through Autozone thread nicely into my Cardone box. My inserts mate to the flare end of the hose with no issues. I did not have to crank X amount of pressure because I had no leak problems. Now if I am reading this correctly you are going to change the threaded end of the hose so it will screw into the box better ???,,,,,,,if this is the case wouldn't everyone else that has done this swap have the same problem. Seeing how you having such a problem with your swap I would send that box back and get another. These boxes are mostly reman and that box may have an issue with the threads even before you hooked it up. this would escalate into ruining the hose,,stripping threads and damaging the inserts.

I'm not sure how using the correct fitting is going to make things worse vs. proceeding with the incorrect fitting. I think using the fitting that's intended for the box has better chance of sealing properly than going w/mismatched threads. Maybe I'm wrong and I still should try tightening the bleepin heck out of it but that's when I think I may be screwing things up and having to pull it all out. Also - if I go with the new 18mm nut then I can re-flare my end and know it's good.

I had the same issue and contacted Lee. They said there are a crush style and need a little oomph.

PROBLEM SOLVED:

I installed the 18mm fitting and reflared the end. No more leaks and didn't have to apply excessive tightening to get there.

The 18mm fitting threaded much better/tighter as it should be. I would recommend anyone doing this conversion to just buy the correct fittings and put a new double-flare on your tubing end. I realize the stock fittings have worked for many but still have issue w/matching dissimilar thread types and this avoids having to do this. I wouldn't do this anywhere else on the car and PS box shouldn't be an exception in my mind. I bought this Rigid flaring kit years ago when I did all new brake lines and it works great.

Kudos to Lee Manf. - these people provide excellent customer support and are a pleasure to deal with.

Now it's off to the alignment shop to finalize my front end susp. rebuild.

HeeeeHaww!!:D:yes:

69RS-SS,
I have to agree with you. It is always better to use the correct nut with the correct thread. As long as you have the correct double flaring dies, using a metric male nut with the double flare is certainly correct.
However, I have one note of caution. I was the supervisor of the power steering hose engineering group at Saginaw in the early 1970s. Our manufacturing plant had special holding dies that would allow them to make tubing bends right up to the nut. You will not be able to duplicate some of the production bends with typical tools that are available in the aftermarket. You can probably arrive at alternate pipe routings and bends that will work anyway.
One last caution: A lot of Chevrolet hose routings went down from the pump and then arched back up to the power steering gear. When you think that your hose routings are done, have someone crank the steering full lock to full lock and watch the hose in relation to the relay rod, pitman arm, etc. You may discover some hard interference with the hose rubber as the steering components swing through their arcs.

JIML82