This morning I painted some misc parts Chasis Black and some other parts Detail Grey using Eastwood products. Everything is going great and I'm thinking all the reading (thanks Martin Sr. and all the others that have posted paint tips) and my practice are paying off.
This afternoon I began painting inner fenders, radiator support with Eastwood's Underhood Black and this thing is kicking my a** (a**@l).
The problem is around the edge of my pattern I'm getting these things that look like cobb webs??? I noticed the can of Underhood Black part #10045ZP is acrylic lacquer and the other stuff I used is base/clear or acrylic enamel.
The gun I'm using is HVLP Iwata LPH400 with 1.2 tip.
I've tried adjusting the amount of material, preasure, and pattern.
I've adjusted the distance I hold the gun away from the part, but it's like some of the paint is drying before it gets to the part??? I ending up stopping because these cobb webs were floating all over and the paint looked like crap.
So what do you guys think??
I never shot lacquer before and didn't think it would be any different.
After the parts dry and I sand it. Does it need to be primed if change to enamel paint. Am I missing something...?
Isn't it amazing how things can going so well and then go so wrong you feel like throwing stuff????????
Sorry so long. Thanks in advance for any advice or tips.
Brian

It sounds like to me you to thin the black a bit more or step up to hotter solvent which will allow paint to spray out wetter and get rid of the cobb webbing.You'll need to be careful on how hard you pound paint on because lacquer can lift enamels.Joe

You can't shoot Lacquer over Enamel. The thinner attempts to dissolve the enamel; hence, the Spider Web or Crinkle finish. As a matter of fact I would not do it even if the Lacquer was surface prepped with a Sealer. Some will shoot Enamel over a Lacquer after sealing the Surface but I would not do it. In other words Lacquers and Enamels do not mix.

After re-sanding you might get away with shooting with enamel without having to shoot primer. Providing the Lacquer is very thin the Enamel will soak into it appearing dry but gloss on the 2nd coat. You can only do it and see what happens.

Painting is very unpredictable sometimes things just seem too good and other times *&@@***.

I personally use Epoxy Under Coat and no Primers. It's expensive but then you have a base to shoot whatever you want and don't require sealers.

I noticed the can of Underhood Black part #10045ZP is acrylic lacquer and the other stuff I used is base/clear or acrylic enamel.
Brian

I hope you are not using enamel reducer shooting the laquer. We used to shoot enamel with laquer thinner for the door jamb and trunk/hood area befor we shot the car in enamel. It dries faster so we could close the doors etc and paint away. Check to be sure you are using the right thinner for the laquer paint!


Kev

I guess I didn't read your post throughly.My bad but are spraying this black over the stuff you b/c or sprayed enamel on?I got the impression you wasn't.You will have alot of issue's if that's the case.As mentioned in above posts you could go over this lacquer with a enamel or dcc single stage black with flatner added to it. Is the surface your painting raised up or cracked looking or just dry or rough?Good luck let us know how make out. Joe

Sorry I wasn't clear.
I've been shotting the lacquer over an expoxy primer.
The enamel and base/clear I referred to were different parts.
The Eastwood products are premixed so I hadn't thinned or added anything. I do agree I need to shot the paint wetter.
I actually was surprised when I read the can and found it was lacquer as I thought all the Eastwood stuff was enamel. When I bought the paint I was just trying to buy the correct colors. ie semigloss or flat for the radiator support and inner fenders.
I was only going to spray enamel over the lacquer because I was having such problems with the lacquer. If I do this I would sand the panel and prime before applying the enamel.
Thanks for the quick response guys---anymore advice is welcome.
I can't paint----but I can read;).
Brian

Hey no problem that's what we come to this site for is help from one another.If you need any help pm your phone # and I can probulay help more over the phone.good luck Joe.

I am about to paint my engine compartment next weekend.


I was looking at that paint from Eastwood also, and I did notice it is lacquer. but I figured a 2 part paint would hold up better.
I am using a 2 part urethane. It is Flat Black from PCL....Also called hot rod black.. it was about $60 for a quart of paint and the catalyst.

It appears that it is the correct sheen for the engine compartment..