K, here's the deal:

2000 3.8 Camaro automatic that stalls intermittently. It started doing this 2-1/2 weeks ago.

Got it back from the shop two nights ago (about 30 miles away) and it started choking a little (VERY LITTLE) about 20 miles into the trip home but got there fine. Yesterday morning (rainy) it started for about 30 seconds then stalled and wouldn't start again. Turns over but no go.

Here's the laundy list of what I've done to it within the past few weeks:

Had the shop replace the cat when problems started, before the stalling but running really rough and barely got it over 3000 rpm (2 weeks ago). Got so hot it was burning through my exhaust causing hellacious leaks.

Ran fine for almost a week then started stalling out on me after stops at intersections, didn't stall till I gave it a little gas...but died like I had turned the key off.

I ran the diagnostic and it threw an O2 code so I replaced that (b4 cat).
Still stalled everyonce in a while, but now more often and occassionally at idle.

I replaced the other O2 (after cat), fuel filter, spark plugs, sprayed with throttle body cleaner, fuel injector cleaner on a full tank.
Still stalled, and even worse. (Runs great when it runs though.)

At this point I'm ready for it to be somebody else's problem, so....

Flash back to two nights ago..... I get it back from the shop again after they replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor. And thought my problems were over (well, this one at least).

Then the next morning (as mentioned above) she dies again.

I don't know if it's worse because of the moisture or because I might have been a bit rough on it being so excited to have it back and running so well.

I've got a hundred ideas of what it could be....which is why I'm here now.

(ignition module, TBP sensor, MAP sensor, MAF sensor, grounding issue, fuel pump, fuel line clogged, crack in coil casing, vacuum leak....ect...ect...)

Maybe somebody here has had the same problem and can give me an idea of which way to lean first.....

When I turn the key to "on" position I can hear the fuel pump run. There's no knocking when I try to start it. Check engine light has been off since I replaced the O2s. Modify that - it was off after replacement, but last night I took the MAF off and started it right up so the service engine light is back on now.

Don't know if this is related, but perhaps it is (should it be a grounding issue)......... for about the last 6 months or so my radio will occasionally shut off. Nothing else is affected when this happens from what I can tell, and it's an aftermarket radio that was already in when i bought the car.

I've been on every on-line forum I can find and have only come up with more possibilities of what this could be........


Thanks,

Nik

How about going through the fusebox and relay box and unplug & plug each fuse & relay. Could be a bit of corrosion on the terminals.

Timing light on the plug wires to see if spark is available during cranking?
Oil pressure sending unit in good repair? It does provide a parallel path of power for the fuel pump.

With being located in Ohio and the recent rain, is flood water over the hood?

Oh, welcome to the club!

Thanks so much for the tips, will be taking this beautifully nasty Saturday to try and fix her again.....

Luckily, I'm on top of a hill........not going anywhere soon either!

LOL.......took the ignition module off, had it tested and it tested bad. So I bought a new one and thought maybe that was my problem. Drove it for a day and stalled on the way home at a pit stop. Took the new module back, it tested bad, a brand new one off the shelf tested bad too..... at this point I'm thinking "Maybe it's the machine...."

So I took my old, old one to another shop and it tested good. Go fig. Well, at least I got my $ back so I can spend it on what's really wrong.....


Thanks again......

"Chevyless in Cincinnati"

Honestly I think you are at the point that you should probably take it to a shop that actually specializes in driveability or at least is very capable of looking at the datastream and running some tests to actually fix it right. Personally I think you are at the point that you will start putting more money into it throwing parts at it than to take it to someone who can diagnose it correctly. Just my 2 cents.