View Full Version : How to? --- Freeze Plug
Frankrentef Mar 22nd, 08, 08:13 AM Help...
Passenger side freeze plug leaked, of course above the engine mount. I was successful in getting the old one out, but I'll be darn if I can figure out how to get the new one in (without lifting the engine.)
She's a 67 RS with a 327.
I've bought both the rubber and "space saving" copper freeze plugs. Neither will squeeze in between the block and engine mount.
I really don't have the tools to lift the engine (hoist) but I guess I can go buy one if I have to.
I have a couple of jacks and four jack stands at my disposal.
Suggestions?
Details!
THNX
JimM Mar 22nd, 08, 08:18 AM Yer gonna haff ta raise that side of the motor. A jack under the pan (with a bit o lumber to spread the load) will do it. Pull the thru bolt, Jack 'er up, and get that motor mount out of the way.
It's still gonna be tough to get a plug in with the engine in the car. Job is normally done with motor on a stand, rotated so you can drive straight down, using an appropriate size tool (usually a big socket) and a large hammer.
Motor in the car, you got no room to spwing the hammer. I hate those rubber plugs, but that's what you may end up with.
Frankrentef Mar 22nd, 08, 08:41 AM THNX,
So the oil pan (with lumber supporting the load) will hold the weight of the engine? I'm assuming I don't release the driver side engine mount, only the passenger side.
I was hoping to putt around on weekends while I work on other issues during the spring / summer and then pull the engine next winter to replace gaskets, (freeze plugs :))
etc.
THNX
yellow69RS Mar 22nd, 08, 10:18 AM The rubber plug is a temporary fix at best, I have seen them blow out. Someone make a tool to drive the freeze plugs in that has a slight offset to it that might work. I think I have had to remove the motor mount and the frame stand to do this job. Picture of tool
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2480&page=1
Jeff
JimM Mar 22nd, 08, 10:34 AM Right, release the one side, and when you jack the motor will rock toward the drivers side. You can get about 3" of clearance. Use a good sized chunk of wood to spread the load, there are lots of caved in oil pans out there.
Lost in the 60's Mar 22nd, 08, 10:48 AM Even with the motor mount and frame stand out of the car, it is a PITA. Removing the frame stand isn't a piece of cake either, as the bolts have nuts on the inside of the frame and are hard to get a wrench on and hold in place to reassemble. My car had the entire front clip off and I could see the frost plugs were rusted thru ( CA car..no anti-freeze, no anti-rust, etc.) so I just yanked the engine/trans and replaced all the steel plugs with Brass. After I put it all back together and ran it the Brass plugs seeped !!! I then got to do exactly what you are doing and that plug needs to be driven in SQUARELY to seal. I personally don't recommend the brass plugs, because I had 3 of them seep and replaced them again with the steel for a tighter fit. The engine had a rubber expandable plug in 1 hole when I got it and that was the only plug not leaking. If it's a short term fix and you don't plan to put a lot of miles on it, the rubber plug may fit the bill without removing the frame stand.
Rob.Canada Mar 27th, 08, 07:57 PM I've been it the same jam before as well. Couldn't drive the new plug in square, the rubber expandable one kept popping out as it was tightened down. So I bought a block heater, put it in place and it held together for another 5 years. The block heaters have a wing nut on the backside that keeps the plug from popping out. The permanent fix is to pull the motor and change them all, dollars for dough-nuts the others start leaking soon.
Dale8346 Apr 1st, 08, 12:46 AM Right, release the one side, and when you jack the motor will rock toward the drivers side. You can get about 3" of clearance. Use a good sized chunk of wood to spread the load, there are lots of caved in oil pans out there.
Jim's advice is correct.
I have not done in a long time. But, I have done many. Never removed a motor to install them and never use the rubber expander. That would be cheating.
If I remember right, I use to put some strong kind of piece of metal over it. When you hit the metal it would force the whole thing in. It was still a pain on many. You need to be on a lift not under a jack & stands.
I remember the joy when one went in on the first try.
Hatya Apr 5th, 08, 07:13 PM O the joy of freeze plugs, ive got many scars from these sobs. Yes there is an offset tool for these but ill guess you dont have it . Ive use a 1/2 extension with a swivel socket on the end to beat these in. Do not buy 1 freeze plug, buy 2-3 cuz its gonna take some persuassion to get this lil bugger in there. And be darn sure when u get the old one out, you clean the block surface with some emery cloth or sandpaper prior to installing the new one. Ive done this with and without sealant depending on the condition of the block its being installed in.
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