I spent the day trying to figure out how to re-install my top assembly, :clonk:
..I need some help..

I was dissappointed in the Body by Fisher book, (13:45-13:47).
..and couldn't find anything on the top, in my AIM.
I did find a good thread on bleeding the hydraulics here on TC.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=130529&highlight=convertible+top

I pulled out my pump and rams today after sitting for 28 years.
(this system hasn't been used since 1980)
..and today my tubing snapped, very brittle, and the system is dry..

Specific Questions

My motor won't run, (geneo and DjD mentioned in the above thread) that the motor won't run without fluid. Is there a float/switch inside? Can I take the motor/tank assembly apart to clean it?
Tubing - This stuff looks like standard nylon tubing. Can I replace all my tubing and crimped fittings with copper compression fitting and nylon tubing from ACE hardware? Does anyone know the PSI of this system?
I have no idea if my ram/cylinders are seized or if the motor actually works, (until I get my tubing replaced). They haven't moved in 28 years. Are the pump and rams pretty durable or finicky? A new pump is $260, and the hydraulic rams are $160 ea., and I hate to waste $580 if I don't need to. My upholstery shop said he has a guy who can put in new seals, but I wasn't sure if that would be a waste of time?
Jim or Dennis - does TC have a helper page with tips and pictures of this top re-assembly?
The top mechanism has 3 mount points on each side. it looks like two of these, mount to the ram piston and ram bracket?? Is that correct?
The center bow has an arm/lever, I'm not sure which hole on the car this arm mounts to. Does anyone have pics of this area? specifically where the top, mounts to the car..I'm a rookie on convertible tops and appreciate any advice, tips or gotchas..

Look at the hydraulic cylinders - if they are extended, look at the rod shaft.
Is the shaft rusted? Yes - replace the cylinder.

Yes you can replace the tubing with nylon from Ace. Low pressure, under 50 PSI.
You might remove the pump and fill with ATF and hook up directly to battery to see if pump works. I don't believe there is a float switch in the reservior.

You can operate the top manually until you get the hydraulics working.

1. yes you can take the motor apart. Their are rebuild kits available with new gaskets and O-rings. Most likely the motor is gummed up.

3. The rams cannot be rebuilt unless you cut the tube, I dont recommend it. If the chromed shafts have rust that cannot be steel wooled away, then the rust will wear the seals and make them leak. The rams can be moved by hand (but fluid will squirt out!) You can try getting some fluid into the rams and keep trying to work them back and forth to free them up.

5. there is a dogbone end of the frame, the forward hole is the pivot and mounts to the bracket. the rear gets the ram. The long eccentric arm mounts to the side of the bracket with the toothed square bolt assembly.

http://www.fototime.com/A6DD0532AC10CDD/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/E7BC1A6A3F1467C/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/95687B57AC69C6A/standard.jpg

Thanks guys..
That info & pics really helped take some of the guess work out.

My cyl-shafts are rust free and clean. They now move up/down manually.
I will fill the pump with ATF tonight and try again with my jumpbox.
Tomorrow I'll rebuild my tubing via "ACE is the place".
I was surprised (happily) to hear it's a low pressure system..

The pictures really help, Thanks Kevin..
I'll be taking lots of pics for the next TC member that asks..
I somehow had my long eccentric arm flipped over the back crossbar.
Now it drops right into place, (now that I know which place)..

1. Does anyone have pics of the way to route my tubing on both sides?
..around the cylinder and dogbone brace.
I haved 8 small clips for the tubing..
From Kevin's pics, it looks like 6 are on the back seat brace (3 on each side)..
I can't find where the other two go, I'm assuming one near each of the dogbone braces?

2. How about pics of the front crossbar, where is mates to the lockdown latches. I'm trying to figureout how much overlap and I don't have the cover in place.

3. Can someone explain the electrical connections on the motor. I'm using a jumpbox to test, and I don't want to short it out. There is 1 big black ground strap. The connector has two wires, green and red.. I'm assuming black is ground, and either red or green get 12v...
Red = up
Green = down
I'm guessing here and hope someone can confirm or correct me.

4. The motor/tank seems sealed. or does the tank twist off??
Has anyone taken this appart before?
I hate to break it, not knowing the secret manuvere

Theres no float switch in the tank, the tank comes off by unscrewing that big triangular (I think its that shape) nut on the bottom of the reservoir (opposite end from the motor) theres a rubber oring between the bottom of the motor housing and the reservoir that keeps the oil from leaking out, don't loose it, or pinch it . The pump is nothing more that a small gear pump connected directly to the bottom of the motor shaft. I've got three of them sitting above my work bench. If the inner bushing that supports the motor shaft gets worn, then the tranny fluid will leak into the motor and turn the carbon brushed to goo.

The reason for filling the motor tank is for priming, without fluid there the motor will run but not pull fluid from into the tank when filling. There is a relay on the firewall that feeds the pump power, it it isn't running make sure the relay is good.