I have a 383 small block putting out 472 hp. I need headers for this engine. I just had the engine built and need headers, but don't want to break the bank. Which have the best fit and clear the spark plug boots? Also what diameter tubing would be best? Thanks, ED.

Hooker Super Comp's, 1 3/4".

If you really want bang for the buck. I got the summit coated headers for less that 200 bucks. You may or may not have to put a small dent for the steering column. You can look in my profile pick to look at them. I think the uncoated ones are like 80 bucks.

If you really want bang for the buck. I got the summit coated headers for less that 200 bucks. You may or may not have to put a small dent for the steering column. You can look in my profile pick to look at them. I think the uncoated ones are like 80 bucks.


Those are 1 5/8" though right? I would go with 1 3/4". Hooker Super Comps are nice but the metal is thin. Hedmans have thicker tubing and flanges.

yep they dont even make them in summit coated in 1 3/4. good looking out.

I got my ceramic coated Sanderson headers for $415 shipped.

What headers did you dyno the motor with?

I would go with a 1-5/8" header, you spend a lot more time in the range that they operate well than the range of the 1-3/4" headers.

Performance Welding Racing Headers has the following to say:

So being very general, a low horsepower 350 CID V8 engine making only 1.5 horsepower per CID (525 hp) may only require a primary tube size of 1 5/8"stepped to 1 ¾". This particular engine would only require a merged collector throat size of approximately 2 ¼" with a 3" outlet. The primary tube length is dictated by what RPM the engine is run at to obtain these power levels, with the vehicle weight, transmission, torque converter, and type of racing playing a dominating role.

I'm not sure what headers they used. I was there when the motor was on the dyno. If I remember right they had the headers upside down and going into 5" flex tubing out the back of the building. Then they can run a wide variety of engines that way. He also stated different headers are going to perform differently. He recommended contacting header manufacturers with my engine numbers and they could do a better job of recommending. Thanks for the advice, ED.What headers did you dyno the motor with?

I would go with a 1-5/8" header, you spend a lot more time in the range that they operate well than the range of the 1-3/4" headers.

Performance Welding Racing Headers has the following to say:

So being very general, a low horsepower 350 CID V8 engine making only 1.5 horsepower per CID (525 hp) may only require a primary tube size of 1 5/8"stepped to 1 ¾". This particular engine would only require a merged collector throat size of approximately 2 ¼" with a 3" outlet. The primary tube length is dictated by what RPM the engine is run at to obtain these power levels, with the vehicle weight, transmission, torque converter, and type of racing playing a dominating role.

Look at the headers this guy used:

http://www.tonybarkerracingengines.com/383ENGINETEST.html

I bought my headman 65003 1 3/4 headers from Jet Hot. Delivered to my door was $500.53

Hooker headers will be about 2 inches from the ground on the driver's side. I returned mine for that reason. If you are racing, no problem. If it is a street car like mine, you will hate it when you scrape the street every 4 blocks. I chose the Thorley headers and was VERY pleased. I have a 383 with 440 HP. They tuck under nicely. I have factory AC and I had to modify the headers by cutting a piece out and then I sent it to Jet Hot for recoating. Keep us posted. DeAngelo

Make sure to get them ceramic coated or you will end up doing it later. I ended up having to get my Hooker Comps ceramic coated later for $175 at a local shop. In my case they cleared the power steering by a 1/4", but are kind of low on the drivers side. Another hidden cost of getting headers is having to go to a mini-starter.

When I finally buy some I will buy these,:yes: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DTE%2D376Y1&N=700+4294923429+4294839039+4294908216+4294908198+ 4294918680+4294840140+4294889107+4294902426+429490 2236+115&autoview=sku
I had a set of thorleys on an old project, worth the money. THICK flanges never leaked and check out this thread to see pics of how tight they tuck under a first gen!!:thumbsup:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=102486&page=3

I just dropped a new ZZ383 in my '69 this last weekend. I used Doug's D-368's. They seam to have good clearance all around. I did have to slot the flange holes because of the D-port exhaust ports. They still fit fine. This with stock P/S setup.

Fred,
what is the difference btwn the D368 and DTE-376Y1 everyone uses? Did you slot the bolt hols down from the original postion? I'm going to be ordering a ZZ385 here soon and will be needing to do the same thing I hear. What did you use to slot the holes? thanks for the info.