After performing several suspension projects this winter I recently have taken the car out on about 5 trips and have the following issue:

After the winter the car started right up and on it's first trip out noticed the turn signals stopped working along the way and then when the car was stopped after driving 25 miles would not restart - battery dead and dropping to 7 volts when trying to start. I took the battery to Auto Zone and they charged it and said checked out o.k. I put back in and drove home fine, however, I decided to relocate a ground to different place on frame just in case. Car drove fine for another 150 miles after that. Then yesterday, turn signals and radio again stop working (engine/MSD ign stills functions fine) and I later have to push start it to get back home. However, after push starting the signals and lights work fine all the way home (25miles) and it now restarts. This is strange. Can a battery have an intermittent problem? If alternator wasn't charging wouldn't my MSD go dead and car die? I don't think the signals not working are the problem but more of a symptom here (along with readio low voltage cutout engagin).

Alternator (1-wire type) and Duralast battery are less than 1 yr. old.

Any ideas, suggestions, etc would be greatly appreciated.

I just addressed a situation on my 67 Chevelle where one of the harness plugs in the engine compartment was only partially seated in the fuse box. Some weird electrical things were happening because of that. Walk through connectors and plugs and make sure all are properly seated.

In addition, use a multimeter to take volt measurements at places like battery, alternator, junction, fuse box, etc ... Look for partially severed wires on connectors and look for corroded wires and connections. It appears that you are already looking at grounds ... so just make sure that your ground points have good metal contact.

Could be 1 of several problems...
volage regulator contacts dirty or if a self regulating alternator a diode has dry solder joint or is dieing

Check the coil is the correct voltage rating for bthe system...
A ballist (stock) system has a 6V coil...after market dizzys use a 12v coil therefore need a new feed wire...the stock wire is a resistance wire.

You have a loose feed wire connection to/from the fuse box.

I would get rid of that one wire alternator as well. They don't charge until it hits a preset rpm. Usually 1000-1200rpm. At idle, it's not charging. Switch back to a standard three wire unit. You can still use an internally regulated unit, but at least the three wire will give you charging capabilities at ALL rpm's(just my opinion). I have spoke with so many people that started out with the one wire and after a few driving experiences have decided to make the switch back.

I've been reading up on the 1-wire and there does appear to be a lot of people who don't like it out there. However, one article I read said that there is a big misperception on how it charges. It said that many think it must be above 1,200rpm to charge, however, the article clarified that it only needs to exceed this RPM once to engage it and is then capable of charging at all RPMs. I don't see this as a big issue since reaching 1,200RPM is always going to happen soon after starting. However, still considering going back to the other type since seems more responsive to elec. system needs. I'm starting to think that maybe the sensor within the 1-wire alt. on my car sometimes gets engaged and other times not which may be the problem here. This article also said that this internal party is causing 90% of the failures with these 1-wire units. This would also be a good time to upgrade to a 100amp vs. my 60amp since I have MSD and elec. fan which is probably mroe than 60amp should serve. Thanks for all your feedback on this. Intermittent elec. problems can be very annoying!:confused: :sad:

I ran a 100 amp chrome PowerMaster three wire unit on mine until I changed it out for a custom made 250amp cs style unit. I can run my H.I.D. headlights, electric fan, heater at full blast, wipers on high, and my VERY HIGH POWER STEREO at a very high level and the gauge never drops below 14.2-14.4volts. If you are in the market for a 100 amp, internally regulated, chrome alt. pm me.