View Full Version : amp draw


fearsomfoe
Apr 14th, 08, 08:01 PM
So I figured out that my amp draw is coming from my stereo head unit. It seeems to be drawing .25 amps when the car is off. when I pulled the fuse the light stopped glowing at the battery! Should I assume the head unit is deffective or is there something else I should be looking at/testing?:confused:

Everett#2390
Apr 15th, 08, 04:14 AM
It seems 250 milliamps is alot for a modern stereo head, being it just has a clock and station memory and operator set-up to remember. Normal draw would be less than 100 milliamps (0.1 amp).

Are there two power sources for the head, one for the stored memory & clock and the other for ignition/power on?

Do stereo's require to be off for some time before they go into a 'sleep mode', say 10-15 minutes? Does yours have this function?

fearsomfoe
Apr 15th, 08, 10:36 PM
Yes I have two leads one for memory and one for ignition. Manual says nothing about sleep mode! Is this maybe a short? Don't think a short would behave this way!:confused:

Everett#2390
Apr 16th, 08, 04:45 AM
Might be a short inside the memory, but doubtful. I would not count it out.

Try another stereo head for grins? Still shouldn't be over 0.1 amp (100 ma). More like 0.04 amp (40 ma), typical.

dnult
Apr 17th, 08, 08:32 AM
0.25A at 12V is 3 Watts - something is getting pretty warm I'd say. Can you feel heat anywhere?

Now if it were 0.25mA, I'd say we're in the ballpark for a memory retension circuit etc.

fearsomfoe
May 1st, 08, 10:20 PM
OK I think I have reasoned out the problem! I took redings again and my amp meter reads .25 amps for about 2 seconds and then it drops to about .01! I think this is some kinda capacitor discharge??? Then the circuit stabalizes?? May be I didn't have the power or negative leads connected well enough and it kept arcing causing the discharge to continue over and over again!!? And now its stable with a strong consistant connection? Does this sound probable??:p

Everett#2390
May 2nd, 08, 04:14 AM
Good job in troubleshooting. Having poor connections did not help the situation. Soldered connections are the best.

I suspect when the head unit is turned off, it does a soft download, much like your home PC when you turn it off. So, after 2 seconds, just enough current is needed to run the clock. 0.010 amps of draw is good, very good.