View Full Version : Storage buildings, aluminum, steel, ...
AlexFolino Apr 21st, 08, 06:49 PM Im preferably looking for a 20x20 or 22x22 or 24x24 building to store my camaro in and have the other side for just tool storage. Anybody know of a decently priced building i could get? Something that can handle pennsylvania weather. All help is appreciated.
Id considering building an actual garage as well with blocks and trusses.. Any help from a brick layer would be even more helpful in me determining how many blocks i need.
thanks
Alex-68
GMJoe Apr 22nd, 08, 03:29 PM Im no mason but your footer needs to be 36" deep ... each cynder block is 16" long and 8" high with morter.
With this info you can figure the blocks....
You could also do a pole building and eliminate any block work and they are avalable fairly reasonable in kit form and can be assembled with a few friends and lots of beer:beers:
GMJoe Apr 22nd, 08, 03:31 PM just wanted to add one more thing.... there is no such thing as too much room in a garage so go as big as your budget will allow and avoid regret.
67pat Apr 22nd, 08, 03:52 PM General contractor here,and I dont mind answering questions. The footer bottom depth requirement for any part of the country,for any codes dept is covered under this universal staement of "must be below the frost line for your particular area of the country as specified in code#"...yadayadayada. I'm not disputing the 36" it may well be and your local codes dept can tell you. I have a chart in a CABO codes book that has a map of the US on it and shows the specific frost line depth,but I dont have it with me at present. When you figuring block,Take the perimeter footage,multiply by 3 and divide by four,that will give you the amount of block in that amount of footage.
Example...20x20 garage has 20+20+20+20=80 ft of perimeter footage. 80x3/4=60 block per course...say you want 4 courses thats 240 block. You can take out for your openings,garage door,pedestrian door,windows etc but you need some overage for breakage and returns on openings and corners etc.
orange67vert Apr 22nd, 08, 06:32 PM Poles barns are cheap 36x36 goes for around 30 gs but they don't come with electric,water or power
kirk
HaulnSS Apr 23rd, 08, 11:38 AM I built a 30X50 garage in 04 with 1 - 9' door and 1 - 16' door, completely finished with block and concrete for about $25,000.00. My father-in-law and I did most of the work. Now, if I could get my father-in-laws car out of there, I would have room for my own...lol
I have come to discover, whatever size you think you need, you should double. I should post pics of when it was first done compared to now. I am not a pack rat, I keep my shop very clean but I have added a few cars and now I have to park my daily drivers outside again. I did add a pool table too!
LT1RUNNER Apr 23rd, 08, 11:57 AM lots of beer:beers:[/quote]
Someone say beer?!? I'm in!!!:D
pdq67 Apr 23rd, 08, 04:58 PM Please look into the cheap storage buildings that are advertised in mags like Popular Mechanics and others.
Suckers aren't $30 g's!
Question for 67pat?
Can you pass code w/ a monolithic floor that has a reinforced perimeter grade-beam around it that floats?? Instead of a frost footing design w/ a floor on top of it?
pdq67
thedugan Apr 23rd, 08, 05:42 PM http://www.pioneerpolebuildings.com/specials.html
67pat Apr 25th, 08, 05:49 PM Please look into the cheap storage buildings that are advertised in mags like Popular Mechanics and others.
Suckers aren't $30 g's!
Question for 67pat?
Can you pass code w/ a monolithic floor that has a reinforced perimeter grade-beam around it that floats?? Instead of a frost footing design w/ a floor on top of it?
pdq67
Sorry for the delay in getting back to the post,but the answer is ...Yes,sort of. The deal is that getting a footing close to the frost line is really all that most inspectors are looking at anyway. The reason is that usually after the finish grade is put on after construction most people have another 4-6" of dirt pushed up against the foundation to complete the final grading so you could have the bottom of the footing at 10" below rough grade but it could be at 14-16" below grade at the final...15" is the frost line code in Tennessee,gotta love the south huh? Most of the time monolithic slabs do not get anywhere near the frost line depth and I think most inspectors dont complain and realize, as believe, I that there is no way that ground frost "heaving" is going to move a monolithic slabs mass,I have been in construction for 25 years and I've never seen that happen.
|