Just thought I would share some progress pics with you. The only new parts are the SS brake lines from The Right Stuff. I had Steve Gregori at Brakeboosters.com plate the MC cover and booster. I rebulit the MC and then bench bled it before installing on my booster. Now I need to bleed the entire system.

Here is the before.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj28/DaralJ/67%20RS%20SS350/July2707023.jpg

Here is the after.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj28/DaralJ/67%20RS%20SS350/April2008001.jpg

wow! 300% better!:eek:

That is impressive. Is the master cylinder painted? Is that correct?

Yes, it is painted and no that is not correct...it should be bare cast. But I did try to get it close to a correct cast color. Once I got it clean, it was clear that it was never going to look very good unless I painted it or replaced it. It just had too much rust and other stains on it. Since the bore was in good shape and it was the original MC, I decided to paint it. Now I just have to make sure I don't get brake fluid on it.

Thanks Daral. I just got a 309 master off of Ebay and was wondering how to restore it. I think most people are painting them or putting clear on, don't you think? I was kind of thinking about a light bead blast then some sort of clear. I emailed Steve Gregori about replating the lid, sure looks like he does a good job.

Jerry - Steve does a nice job. Make sure your boster and MC lid are clean and as smooth as you can get them. Mine had some pitting on the back and the lid had a few scratches that really showed up after plating.

Daral,
You May Consider Using DOT5 Brake Fluid . It Is Silicon based And Will Not Remove Paint If Spilled .
Ben

Do the masters look OK with clear on them? Anybody?

Eastwood seals this paint for painting your MC http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=114&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C389%2C390%2C391&KickerID=11&KICKER
Bob

Jerry's book says 60% gloss black or natural finish. I wonder if there is a flat finish clear?

Daral, What was the turn around time from Steve?

John, I sent it to him in October 2007 and he had it back to me in about 4 weeks. He did tell me that it depends on the time of year and fall is his slow period. It was worth the wait.

Daral,
You May Consider Using DOT5 Brake Fluid . It Is Silicon based And Will Not Remove Paint If Spilled .
Ben

Ben - Do a search on DOT5 silicon fluid. It is not recommended by most on here because of its inability to absorbe water (a property originally thought to be good). Moisture in the system will pool in low areas and cause problems like rust, soft peddle etc. I drove some cars that were using DOT5 and did not like the soft feel of the brake peddle. I went with a synthetic DOT4 and double checked all my connections to make sure they were not leaking.

Jerry's book says 60% gloss black or natural finish. I wonder if there is a flat finish clear?
:yes:Mine was black, new.

I have silicone fluid in mine and have a great pedal. I have been using it for about 10 years with no problems. This is a street car driven on the weekends.

Now if is for a race application I would not use silicone fluid. They say when it gets hot and you are using your brakes on a road coarse it will airate bubbly. If you have a tight closed system you should not have any moisture in it. They also say to change your fluid regularly which I havent done on my car. Now I change the fluid when I do the brakes on my everyday driver.

:thumbsup:

:yes:Mine was black, new.
I am sure it depends on the year. My 67 was a natural cast finish.