I'm looking for a way to run multiple leads directly from the battery. I will be running a 1/0 gauge of the top post for my audio amps and may be a 12 ga aswell for the electric fan. I thought I seen something somewhere in the forums that looked like it would work but now I can't find it? I'm looking for something that will look somewhat clean but will allow me to run the 1/0 gauge and maybe three other circuits. This is not a stock wire car so I cannot run off the stock junction block! Does anybody have a picture or a link? Jegs and summit had nothing.

Ive got something like this for my car. The one Ive got goes on the side post so it keep the wire somewhat hidden. I use the top post of battery for starter. I got mine at Walmart. Not sure if this is what youre looking for..
http://www.scosche.com/products/sfID1/160/sfID2/163/productID/850http://www.scosche.com/products/sfID1/160/sfID2/163

What about something like this rather than attaching everything at the post http://www.streetwires.com/products/default.aspx?grp=63

Did you consider relocating the battery to the trunk ? http://picasaweb.google.com/blenherr/Phase1Complete/photo#5184267057886945234

I've got a battery with both top and side posts. I use the top posts for the OEM battery cables and the sideposts are used for accessories.

I am in the process of connecting dual electric fans, electric water pump, MSD Ignition, Detroit Speed Headlight Openers, and the Fuse Block which require a connection to the positive side of the battery. Instead, I went to the local electrical component store and purchased a 100 AMP Buss Bar. The Buss bar has 10 component capacity with a #4 wire connector for a direct #4 wire to the positive side of the battery terminal. This way you only have two large wires (#4 and #1 )to the battery. (One to the starter #1 and one to the Buss bar #4.) Total cost for everything $20.00.


Jeff

Make sure whatever you use, that you fuse it at the source properly. You'd be amazed how fast even a heavy gauge wire will turn into a flaming pile of goo if shorted to ground on nice healthy battery.

It's very hard to pull extra power off the battery neatly. I really hate the look of a generic parts store battery cable with several hardware store yellow crimp connectors under the nut.

Plus, the "little wire" off a factory style cable is a fusible link.

My battery has both top and side terminals. I used a repro spring ring cable on top, and hooked to the side terminal for my stereo.

This is how I did mine. It's almost invisable unless your looking for it.

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/8623/wiring013us1.jpg

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/8964/wiring016vf0.th.jpg (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=wiring016vf0.jpg)

This is an OE style Spring-Ring and I needed a 6GA +Pos lead for my amp.
The neg is only a 10GA from the fender ground that runs up the car (grounded in several places) to elimiate any ground loops, then back to 6GA (2x 10GA) just at the amp's ground terminal.

...I really hate the look of a generic parts store battery cable with several hardware store yellow crimp connectors under the nut...

Man, I couldn't agree more. I usually use the non-insulated terminals and put a short peice of heat shrink over them. They're much slimmer and look better too IMHO. If I don't have the non-insulated type available, I'll cut away the insullator and use the bare terminal.

Me too. I've gone to a lot of trouble and effort to get Parckard 56 style connectors.
Those color-by-numbers crimps look so amatuer and look as though the wiring is a bodgy after-thought.