I know this topic is a repeater here and everybody has different methods of taking sheemetal off their cars. I bought this spot welder removal tool from Harbor Freight and let me tell you I am very impressed on the durabilty of this tool. So far I have removed the full quarter panel, Half a floor pan, Outer Cowel "Tulip", and working on the rockers now. This little $3.99 tool is till going strong and it looks like I won't be opening the 2nd one I bought for a while. Other places advertise it for $6.99 and up. I do take my time and DO NOT use high speeds when using this tool. This is the link below for anyone who is interested and again just FYI for you guys.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95343

Just be sure to put a few drops on pneumatic oil in it each time and it should last you a long time. Most air tools fail because they get moisture in them and rust from the inside out.

Thanks for the info. I don't make a habit of buying things from HF but I've gotten some pretty good results with a number of their tools. Not that they are used every day but I still have some air that are probably 10 years old.

Thanks I will pick up a few. I am no tool snob I will buy from HF they have some very useful stuff.

I look at it this way when buying from HF.

I know they're not the best, but for the price if they work once and get the job done, it owes me nothing.

Handy little gizmo,

Normally they are more like a rotor broach than a hole saw if you know what I mean. And like most tools you usually get what you pay for,

J.

I used them on the 1 piece floor removal. I went through two of them. The blade unscrews and flips over so you have two sides of each one.

I used one of those type and it broke when used on any metal with any curve to it....the rotary broach referred to type are many times more durable. I shop at HF for stuff and not seen the really good type....I bought mine online I think.....Eastwood catalog shows the better type. All that being said, glad to hear those worked for you.

fyi.....that's what I used to take my entire car apart. I on the otherhand did not take it slow and easy.......I drilled like my life depended on it and still, I only went through about 5 of them taking the entire car apart. For $4 each I didn't mind.......

These are the better type....

http://www.power-tec.co.uk/main/showcat.ihtml?id=296

........2nd, 3rd and 4th items down. But at around $100 I guess its cheaper to buy 4 at $5 each. Personally Id rather have the proper tool so its always there to be relied upon in the future.

j.

Hmm, looks like that tool could be good for drilling the spot welds for my mini-tub, thanks for the info.

I used one of those type and it broke when used on any metal with any curve to it....the rotary broach referred to type are many times more durable. I shop at HF for stuff and not seen the really good type....I bought mine online I think.....Eastwood catalog shows the better type. All that being said, glad to hear those worked for you.


What I do when I get a curved piece is, I make a pilot whole with a 3/16 drill bit. Then I start drilling with this tool, once I start hearing the metal being chewed up I let the tool start doing the work. I do not start putting force on the drill untill I see a full circle made from the tool.
This has worked for me very well.

I got the same thing from Eastwood-paid more for it,though. I found it takes a little technique. I would get it spinning fast but feed it into the work real slow-worked for me.