I am/was spraying Onni base over Epoxy primer sealer, and some
areas the paint reacted, and wrinkled. The car was striped 95%+
and body work done, primer Omni surfacer used, and then
catalized primer sealer. Waited proper times between each coat.
First coat of base went fine, about 10 minuts after second coat,
wrinkles appeared. How long can you wait to clear. I know 24 hrs
max, but can it be wet sanded days later, and cleared?
I think I will let it dry, sand afected areas, wet sand all base,
spray sealer on afected areas, and continue base and clear.
Does this sound good, or am I missing something?
I would appreaciat any advise. Thanks

I'd talk to your paint supplier. I've never seen a base wrinkle epoxy. Something is incompatible. You don't want to sand base, just respray it.

The solvents in base and epoxy can be different and incompatable,, depends on the company, i don't know anything of omni though, my guess is that the epoxy didn't do anything, i bet the base just split over it, if you sand down to the epoxy you will probably see that the epoxy is fine,, if that is the case, just re-base and continue..
what happened is the base probably drew out the remaining solvents from the epoxy. and as they rushed out, it caused the base to split..

I could be wrong it is what comes to mind.

Just sanded with 320, the primer wrinkled. sanded one area, and
sprayed a little primer and it wrinkled again. It is all Omni products,
PPG, and is supposed to work togather.

What primer are you shooting,areyou sure that you have the right catalist for the primers and that you used them in with the right primer? It can happen.

By any chance did you strip your car with aircraft stripper before the epoxy? Or have it acid dipped?

I did not use any paint stripers, I sanded down to bare metal almost everywhere,
just a few traces of origonal left. Should have got that to. I did some body work,
Primed with Epoxy primer sealer, and it sat for about 4 months because I broke
my back. Then I got back to work on it. I finished body work, sprayed Omni 2k primer
surfacer, blocked and sprayed Epoxy primer sealer. The sealer did have a reaction
on the under side of the trink lid, but I did not see any other places with problems.
I sprayed base color on the outsideof the car, but left the underside of the trunklid
to fix later. Thats when after the second coat the reaction hapened.
The materials I used are
Omni MP 182 Urethane Surfacer with MH 165 hardener
MP171 Epoxy Primer with MP175 hardener
MBC Acrylic Basecoat Huger Orange
MC 161 High Solids Urethane Clear
I have used these products many times before, so I can't figure out what
I did wrong.

I am by no means a body man but have been reading up lately on these paint tips as I am getting ready to spray an epoxy on a blasted shell I have. I am wondering if you used any type of degreaser- wax remover on the metal? I wonder if the metal is holding something.

i too have been using omni products for years with excellent relults. the only thing that i can think of is you used the epoxy primer as a sealer. i have used it as a sealer also, but i always dilute it 10% to help it lay down flatter and have a quicker flash time. i'm wondering if maybe you didn't let it flash long enough between coats. omni sells a sealer that is a very light gray in color. i believe it is mp170. i could be wrong. it uses the same hardener as the mp182 urethane surfacing primer. i personally think i get a better finish using that as opposed to using the epoxy primer as a sealer. if you go to ppg's website, all the omni products are listed there.

I did reduce the epoxy primer10%, ratio 2 to 1 to .5
Maybe I didn't let it flash long enough. When I have used the epoxy primer
in the past, I had not used it as a sealer, and did not paint right over it.
The instructions say wait 15 min for 1 coat, or 30 for 2 coats, befor painting
over it, at 70 degrees. I put on 2 light coats, and waited 30 min, but it was maybe
60 degrees, but was dry to touch. But I did not put base under the trunck,
and it was the worst there. I will go to the paint store tomarow, and hope I
can figure out what I did wrong. I guess worts case, I wasted 2 quarts of
paint and reducer, and my time. I just want to lern from it so it doesn't
happen again.

Patrick , It sounds to me like a combination of things caused your problems :

1. Temperture , you said 60* or so , not really a problem but will effect the drying times . It may have been dry to the touch but not cured .

2. Reducer , both in the epoxy and in the base could have been a little too slow with the cooler temp.

3. A combination of the two , spraying the reduced epoxy in the cooler temp with not enough dry time (solvents not all evaparated out) , this can cause problems even with the proper temp reducer , then top coating with the reduced base .

What happens is the solvents in the base coat attack the still soft epoxy and causes the epoxy to lift which inturn , causes the base to lift .
I use the same products you listed , and as you , I haven't had many problems . This is just my opinion and experiences with Omni , but I would talk with the paint store about it . Terry

Everybody take note!http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z235/Madhatter68/4-28-200882716AM.jpg

That 15* rule is close to what th paint shop told me, but they said even
at 70* the 30 min time on the paperwork is usualy not enough. They say
wait at least 1 hr or more, and longer for cooler temps. Thanks, another
lesson learned the hard way, but it can be fixed.

That is out of PPG's tech sheet.

Wow deja vu, when I painted my 68 firebird using the 2k primer, then sealing , and spraying bc/cc ( vlaspar bc/ppg cc) I had what kinda looked like alligator skin- so I scuffed, primed ( to seal), blocked and re-shot her, and it came back!!!- not as bad but was still there when I did the 2nd coat of base I could see it, so I backed off shot a good coat of clear and came back a while later and redid color just using the the clear to seal the body well I guess 3rd time was the charm in my case, whatever it was that was coming thru the primer/sealer could not get through the clear so all is well. That is probably not the right way to fix it but thats what worked for me- later I was looking at some of the pics I had taken of the build and noticed where I had shot a guide coat ( using rattle can flat black) was also the same general areas I had problems with the paint, not sure if that is what caused the reaction in the paint but it could have been.