I am putting my engine back together soon and was wondering if I should use threadlock on my head bolts, timing chain cover bolts, intake, oil pan, etc....

Don't use threadlock on any of the bolts you listed except the timing cover bolts. I use threadlocker on the torque converter and the flexplate only.

Use a very light coat of RTV on the head bolts since they go into water jackets. Any other bolts that go into water do the same. I use a dab of RTV on the rocker studs (screw in only) since they go into the intake ports.

I don't like RTV, particularly on bolts. I use permatex threadsealer, it comes in a sqeezetube and is non hardening. I use it on headbolts, and any other bolts that go thru to water, including all the intake bolts.

Any fasteners that need to be torqued need to be treated according to the torque specs, dry or with a particular lubricant.

Timing cover and oil pan bolts have locking washers, they go in dry and need no lube or sealant.

Any "disimilar metal" situations need "antisieze." This would include all Stainless Steel bolts, and anything threading into alluminum, including sparkplugs.

To add to what Jim said, I would you Loctite Blue on the cam gear to cam bolts, especially if you don't have a capscrew locking plate.. I would also use it on the crank balancer bolt. Blue and green loctite is medium duty. Red is max.

Camgear bolts is the only thing in a car engine I loctite(blue). Blue is called serviceable strength:)

Have y'all seen the loctite in big'o chapstick tubes yet? Beats hell out of bottles. Man I got in an argument with a bottle of blue a couple months ago at work:D(we use tons of it on screw compressors they are hell on bolts loosening)... I told myself to point the bastard AWAY from my machine and I did... do y'all know loctite will squirt well over 20' and straight on the windshield of a co-workers truck in a 40 mph breeze? It will:D

HB bolts I put antisieze, and on the bore of the HB.

Flexplate bolts I antisieze and tighten to 100%.

Oops, forgot, I loctited(blue) my 421 oil pump pickup bolts and also tie wired them.

I used loctite quick cure primer(it preps the metal for loctite to work correctly) one time on cam gear bolts but not any more it makes it bite too well. Carb cleaner works a little too well too. Solvent works ok, and wiping the threads wit a rag instead of removing residue with cleaner will still get you a threadlock but it is easier to disassemble and clean. That is how I downgrade the lock I am after. Whereas loctite primer will make the stuff set like you wouldn't believe, and it takes a rotary wire brush to clean. That is how we have to do it at work, and it sucks cleaning all the loctite off bolts and out of threads.

Not very many things on a car with the resonance to need threadlock. Usually when a bolt on a car gets loose it's because 1 of the mating pieces are frail and/or the gasket is a wimpy piece of crap or there is a temp extreme involved. Loctite won't help you on any of those kinda things.

I do have a camgear locking plate for the cam bolts

That's good Tim, did the driver come back to talk at cha?

I do as JimM
Except
Any "disimilar metal" situations need "antisieze." This would include all Stainless Steel bolts, and anything threading into alluminum, including sparkplugs.

I use the "permatex threadsealer" I think this as the same or very similar prduct we have in NZ as locktite plumbers threadsealer..Iuse stainless on stuff like water pumps, timing cover, inlet manfold, pan., water neck etc...When not using stainless go in clean and dry...as do internal cam bolts etc

I am with jim on this one. :)