OK here we go. I already posted my problem about my cooling system and thank you to the members who have helped me.

My mild big block that has all new cooling items like the clutch fan, fan shroud, water pump, US radiator, hoses, 180 stat and it still likes to run at 190-200* around town, but if the weather is 90 or above my temp will clime up in traffic to 210-220* until i can drive at a constant speed of at least 25mp, then it will cool down again to 190-200*.

My option is to put a back up electric pusher fan on the front of my radiator and still keep the stock looking set up on. But is this a crappy idea, i mean will it look funky on my car (electric fan).

Guys thank you so much. I just don't want people to say (why the e-fan) plus its a small 14" E-fan that mounts threw the cores. Is that a NO NO..

Im still surprised its getting hot.

It's not a nono, and it will probably help.
Did you try replacing your fan clutch (again) yet? That may help more.
What about some weatherstriping or something to seal the rad to the support, and the shroud to the rad?

What about a blockoff plate, to seal the area between the upper valence and the rad support? /They help keep the air moving thru rather than over the radiator. It would also put your pusher fan out of sight.

I did not replace the new fan clutch. It has tension on the clutch when you try to spin it by hand, so it dosent have allot of free wheeling. It could possibly have an air bubble or a bad pump.

This morning i pulled the cap off, fired it up and let it idle until the temp reached 180-190* just to see the flow in the radiator (no flow) and it started to poor out of the top of the radiator so i put the cap back on and let it idle for about 15 minutes after and it the gauge was set at 190*

Your fan should be half in, half out of the shroud when looking straight down for best air draw.

What size is your radiator ( 2,3, or 4 core)

Doug its a 4 core. Yes it sticks a little farther out then in.

Doug what is going on. I know that it shouldn't need a E-fan. Is it my pump, stat, clutch they are all new and it did this same thing before all the new parts.

I'm thinking a bad pump.

Faulty reading on gauge? where are you reading temp?

Good news i feel like a big dummy. But i just got off the phone with a friend and he agrees just like some of you, that the clutch fan is not engaging when it gets hot. Wow i feel allot better and i will install a new tomorrow.

The clutch fan thats in there now, when cold it has a little drag to it and when hot its the same just a drag to the clutch. My buddy said when its hot and you open the hood do you feel the air blowing and i said no. Well i cant believe i was stuck over a new clutch fan.

Has this happened to ant of you?

Faulty reading on gauge? where are you reading temp?At first i was thinking the gauge too. I cant believe it.:thumbsup:

A new fan clutch will be engaged at first cold start-up for about 15-30 seconds, then disengage. Listen for the wind noise.

When hot, fan should engage and sound like a 20" box fan on high, just as it did at cold start-up.

A new fan clutch will be engaged at first cold start-up for about 15-30 seconds, then disengage. Listen for the wind noise.

When hot, fan should engage and sound like a 20" box fan on high, just as it did at cold start-up.
The fan never made any noise to here. But it has a little drag on it and when hot i checked it and it was the same amount of drag. Is this wrong i think its not engaging and it defiantly doesn't sound like a 20" box fan.

Listen to the fan. When air is hot enough to engage the fan, the fan will speed up, then disengage.

Turn off engine, and you can reach in front of the fan, disconnect the bimetal spring from its outside clip and turn the spring CW to engage the fan manually. Box fan syndrome should happen.

Everett this sounds like my clutch is not engaging. So your saying if i disconnect the spring it will run in manual mode ( which is engaged ) like if it were hot.

I'm think i understand and your making this seem easy to tell whether or not this is a bad clutch fan right.

Skip - I use a non-thermal clutch on the Camaro. As the rpms go up, it loosens up and spins less. When the rpms are lower (when you need more air flow) it's tight and spins more. It's not dependant on outside temps at all...

As for the pusher fan, I say no because unless it's running it's blocking your core and taxing an already stressed system.

Thank you Dennis. Tomorrow I'm going to iron this out and start with the clutch fan, then the stat but i might try the non-thermal clutch as well.

So your saying if i disconnect the spring it will run in manual mode ( which is engaged ) like if it were hot.And turn the spring fully CW, fan will be engaged.

I may be mistaken but isnt there a small selection of temps available for these thermal type clutches? Just like a stat. Dont have time to look now but I thought I saw that.
Also could you be running a bit rich or lean at idle that too could make it hot and hard to cool fast enough. Timming at idle also can tax a cooling system. Just some thoughts

I would think it depends upon the recipe of the bimetal spring as to the temp it engages.
I'd like to see the table/info.

I would think it depends upon the recipe of the bimetal spring as to the temp it engages.
I'd like to see the table/info.Hey Everett would be smart to run a non-thermal clutch like Dennis described. I'm going to attack it when my kids go to School. Also I'm going to put another new 180 stat in while I'm in it. That spring just turn it CW (CLOCK WISE ) right, and that will show me the deferents from what is going on now and what it should do when hot.
Thank you for hanging in there with me... Skip

I may be mistaken but isnt there a small selection of temps available for these thermal type clutches? Just like a stat. Dont have time to look now but I thought I saw that.
Also could you be running a bit rich or lean at idle that too could make it hot and hard to cool fast enough. Timming at idle also can tax a cooling system. Just some thoughtsblue ss: it is ruining perfect, before and now with the hot issues i had it tuned from some pros out of Hot Rod Magazine and they rebuilt the carb, set the advance on the distributer, ran it on there lab tops for the tunning and Finlay the motor likes the total advance timing at 32*... We tried 34* and 36* but with the pump gas she would ping.

Skip - what is the initial timing at? Unless you have a custom curve built into your dist running 32 total is likely to be leaving you with low initial. If you are not using manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance you can switch from ported to vacuum and that will raise your idle timing without changing the total. It will raise the idle so you'll have to adjust it back but if your heating up at idle issue is timing related it should solve it.

Non-thermal clutches are said to not take up as much HP as thermal but thremals seem to be more common. I've run mine for years and idle temps never go over 190 even in 100+ temps. I've driven in a lot of parades and event cruises sucking in hot exhaust from the car in front of me with no problems.

Skip - what is the initial timing at? Unless you have a custom curve built into your dist running 32 total is likely to be leaving you with low initial. If you are not using manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance you can switch from ported to vacuum and that will raise your idle timing without changing the total. It will raise the idle so you'll have to adjust it back but if your heating up at idle issue is timing related it should solve it.

Non-thermal clutches are said to not take up as much HP as thermal but thremals seem to be more common. I've run mine for years and idle temps never go over 190 even in 100+ temps. I've driven in a lot of parades and event cruises sucking in hot exhaust from the car in front of me with no problems.Hey Dennis: My initial timing is 16* and yes the recurved the distributor advance. Non vacuum advance dist.
I also just installed the new non-thermal clutch, i am going to start in right now. lol

I forgot to mention that when i tried to turn the thermal spring CW it broke, and it wouldn't tighten back up, the spring would just spin. I hope that was the problem.

Timing and carb tuning for sure has a big part in heating things up.

Thanks ill give an update.

16 initial is plenty, I think the clutch will resolve the problem... Also you can test your t-stat by heating it up in a pan of water on the stove. Stick a thermometer in the water and watch and listen for the stat to open then check the water temp. Your typical $5 stant t-stat is not very quick to open where the Mr Gasket/Robert Shaw $12 t-stat should open rather quickly, it's much better and worth the price.

Well we are making progress. The only thing ive done so far is replace the clutch fan with a non-thermal fan and it is moving massive air, were before nothing.

The weather here is sunny at about 70* - 75* and about a 15 mile PH winds.

I just drove the car fore 30 min and let idle in my drive way for 15 min, the temp stayed at 190-195*... I could not get it hot, the new fan is blowing a huge amount of air.

My next item after the Orange Crush cools down, will be adding a new 180* T-Stat made by Stant it is the better of the two at Kragens. I still would like 10* cooler then the 190-195* that i have now.

Dennis that new fan kicks butt.

[quote=DjD;999975]Non-thermal clutches are said to not take up as much HP as thermal quote]

Dennis, isn't it the other way around, according to Chevy High Performance? Here is a copy of some info in an article from Chevy High Performance.

There are two types offered, and both operate on the fluid drive theory. One's a thermal type, which is typically what auto manufacturers have used, and the other is a low-cost and low-performance style called a non-thermal. The better thermal fan clutches varies the fan speed with temperature of the air behind the radiator. An identifying feature of a thermal fan clutch is the bi-metal thermostatic coil located at the front of the clutch. This coil senses the under-hood heat and activates the clutch accordingly. The operation (when engaged) provides maximum cooling, while the disengaged operation provides fuel savings and noise reduction.
Non-thermal clutches (also called centrifugal) are a low-cost replacement part. Although comparatively inexpensive, non-thermal clutches are always engaged, providing less fuel and power savings than a thermal-style fan clutch.

Here is the link to the entire article if you wish to read it.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0504_cooling_system_info/index.html

Charlie nice find and thank you, so far i have to say i like the non-thermal better because i know when im at idle its pushing massive air. I think i just had a bad thermal clutch.

Still waiting to pull the radiator cap off and install the T-Stat.....

The best news of the day is....... My old 180* T-Stat was not opening until 200* and fully open at 210*..... Unbelievable i owe you guys a huge drunk fest... I'm going to install the new 180* T-Stat that i checked and it opens at 180* fully at 190*...
THANK YOU TEAM CAMARO

The Orange Crush is fixed, She is so happy now. I gave here a little pinch in the fanny and she liked the new T-Stat. Took here up and around all over and the temp was 190* max, got here back home and let her idle in the driveway as she giggled at me. The temp still 190* i could see it drop to 180-185* then back to 190*.

Very awesome

Thanks guys....

Charlie - I chose the non-thermal after reading a test Car Craft did using about 10-12 different types of fans on the same engine running each on the dyno. My house is a mess with some remodeling but I will try to find the article... Since the clutch loosens up at rpm it spins less requiring less HP.

Skip - Glad she's keeping her cool...:thumbsup:

Glad you got it figured out.:hurray:

Now i have to fix the garbage disposal and everything else.... That was just to weired....But as long as the Orange Crush is happy then so am i....

Skip - The disposal requires good pipes and a 150 shot of nitros and there will be nothing it can't chew up with a diamond tip blade!! :D

Charlie - I found that Car Craft, May 2000 It's titled "Fan Power Test: 45 HP!" They dyno'd a small block at 495 hp with an alternator but no fan for a base. Then ran 9 different fans and provided dyno results. The puller electric came in #1 at 494 hp, the Flex-a-lite thermal clutch and same fan I use came in #2 at 487 hp, it's a Flex-a-lite fan #5718 and thermal clutch #5655. The same fan with a non-thermal (#5255) clutch made 485 hp and a heavy-duty thermal clutch (same fan) dropped off from there to 476 hp. All the fixed and flex fans fell in under these... I guess I was partially off by 2 hp but for $56 at Summit (both 6 blade fan and non-thermal clutch), it was a bargan back then. The extra 2 hp was $10 more... I have over 30k miles on the parts and they are not missing a beat. How's that go, ymmv ;)