View Full Version : Jeg's VS CE Subframe Connectors


Rookobird
May 27th, 08, 08:57 PM
After searching lots of threads, I want to know which are the better fitting and hang down less of these two bolt in subframe connectors for a 69 coupe?

Thanks,
John

fredd7924
May 28th, 08, 07:00 AM
i have the jegs connectors, but have not had time to put them on yet. they seem to be decent for the money, ill give you more info if i get them on sometime soon.

ProdigyCustoms
May 28th, 08, 07:01 AM
We sell and instal Hotchkis. For a under the "body connector" They fit the best, period.

68RS-SS
May 28th, 08, 01:50 PM
I bought the Jegs for $100 and like em a lot - they fit snug and tight to body and follow the same line and angle as the front frame rails and look as though GM intended to put them there. I know that others make some tubular ones (vs. boxed) that are nice but I'm not personnally a fan of how they look on a street car form the side perspective. I'm sure others are nice too but the appearance & fit on Jegs is what you asked about so telling you my personal experience as relates to that aspect. Best $100 bucks I put into it. The car rides more solid and I could notice the difference immediately.

speedfreek
May 28th, 08, 01:56 PM
I have Competition Engineering and they fit perfect.

pdq67
May 28th, 08, 04:35 PM
Ditto Jegs bolt-on!

Car became a LOT stiffer when I jacked it up using a block of wood and the front leaf spring perch going in sideways!!!!!!!

pdq67

Rookobird
May 29th, 08, 07:26 AM
Thanks a lot for the info!!!

John

Brentmc
May 29th, 08, 10:20 AM
How long did it take to install the connectors and bushings?

68RS-SS
May 29th, 08, 12:17 PM
Including dissasembly, the trips back and forth to hdwr store getting all new grade-8 bolts and of course cleaning-up things along the way, spray paint here and there and breaks I would say make a full day out of it. I'm sure they could be slapped on more quickly but just keepin it real. I found the most challenging part to be getting the forward leaf spring mount plates, corresponding fame holes/nuts and new sub-frame connector holes to all align. Take your time with that. I used a bottle-jack, c-clamp & pry-bar to twist things into position. I also used new grade-8 bolts & washers here which that were a little longer than originals. Now many people will tell you to use a solid body mount vs. the poly or rubber to more firmly connect your subframe connector. This is good advise. I compromised and retained upper poly bushing (between existing frame and body and the made my own solid bushing to firmly clamp the subframe connector to the frame. I'm not a 700hp 1/4miler Mario Andretti so wanted to retain some small amount of cushion between body and original frame. But I do think that using the solid mount that I fabricated below firmly plants the connector to frame. I made it out of some very large thick washers that I got in the Nuts & Bolts section at teh True-value and had the open them up a little in the center to fit the OD of the steel body mount. This may be too much info. and more than necessary but just sharing my version. of it.

Brentmc
May 29th, 08, 12:23 PM
That exactly what I was looking for. I need to understand how many nights after work I will be working on this so I can do it without stranding the car over a weekend...weekends are too precious when the weather is good.

Thanks!

Brent

6Z8RS
May 29th, 08, 02:43 PM
Can someone PLEASE post pic of them so we can see how they fit. I'm getting ready to buy some connectors.

pdq67
May 29th, 08, 05:12 PM
I'd start soaking her down good now w/ PPB and do it at least 3 or 4 times before you start!

Hopefully the PBB will keep the clip-nuts from breaking, but if it doesn't, read the sticky up top!

pdq67

Lobstah
May 29th, 08, 06:06 PM
pdq...I've GOT to get you to try AeroKroil one of these days... ;)

You'll never use another can of PBB...LOL

Jim