i know this mite sound dumb what is all needed to give my 1989 iroc a tune up as far as tools and materials and how will i be able to get to the plugs on the passenger side of motor looks hard to do

Having McPherson struts on the front end does give up access to get to those spark plugs, especially with A/C.

I had an '85 Z/28 and pass side can be gotten to with a short extension, 1" and a 5/8 plug socket and ratchet handle or a hex 5/8 plug socket and a 3/4 in wrench, all from the top.

Some go to the extreme of cutting a 4 inch hole in the fenderwell behind the strut and above the frame rail to gain access to #8 spark plug. I waited overnight and let the engine cool before attacking.

As far as parts, the usual, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dielectric grease, fuel filter, air filter, and an oil & filter change is optional. A can of FI spray bomb to clean the throttle body where the IAC resides inside to clean the sludge. And, a can of BG 44K for the gas tank to clean the combustion chamber. Thirty-four to thirty-six PSI in the tires. Trans fluid level check and same with rear axle. Maybe a change of fluid for both. Brake fluid flush would be in order as the existing fluid is probably original.

Good luck, JMT's.

thanks man

o yea and i was going to change to injectors on the car is this hard thing to do and what injectors do i use if u can explain it to me i am positive i can do i am a airplane mechanic so i am pretty good with stuff like this if you u can explain it to me thanks

Changing injectors is not hard, just time consuming because the plenums and runners have to come off individually with a Torx bits. Disconnect wire harness to everything, linkage, relieve fuel pressure, hose disconnects, and coolant through the throttle body.

Some bypass the TB with a copper section of tubing on the coolant.

Takes time and remember the order of parts. Keep the runners & plenums all loose when assembling, then tighten.

I used Accell 24# injectors and had no problem, 305 are 19#, 350 are 21# by OE design. Use petro jelly for lubing the O-rings.

I would also check and maybe replace the EGR valve and its exhaust temperature probe attached to it, just because I'm there.

well finally got the spark plugs in thats as far as i got took a while just to do that specialy the number eight spark plug but i got it i will finish it up tomarrow with the plug wires, cap , button and new coil

You can get to the plugs from the bottom. Does make it alittle easier.

hey will a dead well a very dead battery after u jump the car off will it make the car run bad

Sometimes it will. However, once the engine starts and alternator starts working, car is ran from alt, not battery.

But, if there is a shorted cell or two, a heavy current load will happen and pull down the engine.

If alt is not up to voltage of 14 volts minimum, car will run alittle erratic.

well the poor ol iroc wont crank and its making a wierd noise from around the manifold like a clicking or shorting out noise dont know anybody got any ideas the noise is coming from like the center of the manifold like on top of it dont know whats their.

I'd put an external battery charger on while I ate dinner and read some posts here.

naw i got a new battery 2 days ago

Size of battery cables and their condition does affect performance of starting system. Using 1 AWG cables does help as does all of the fusible links being in good continuity shape helps other systems work and recharges battery also.

Clean connections helps also. I'd do the ground cable on the block rather than on alum heads.

Got to have a good healthy battery and of good capacity to turn over starter. When cranking, voltage should not go below 9.5 volts and cables will probably be warm, but not hot, same for connections, warm not hot. Fuel pump should run for 2-3 seconds by ECM. Engine starts, charging voltage should be 14 volts minimum.

well what up under were the tpi is at wierd noise coming from there never made it before now and the car want run

it is like on top of manifold

On the front of the TPI is the IAC, Idle Air Control valve. It is a reversible DC motor to position a needle in a hole to adjust engine idle speed by opening the hole, faster idle. Smaller hole, less idle speed.

It may be moving to adjust idle and be too far closed.

Under the plenum is an EGR vlave, Exhaust Gas Recirculation. If broken in any shape/way, it will be a vacuum leak to the manifold and lean out the mixture. Usually it will be a squeal or hiss.

Another place for a hiss/sqeal could the runners to plenum gaskets bad. Leak there could also make same noise.

Pull a spark plug, is it wet with fuel?

it really aint a sqeal or hiss it is something eletrical i think the funny thing is nothing ever shows up on the computer dont know why if it was the iac would it show up on the computer

IAC will not show up, only a functional fault as in listening and feely touchy thing. Or no control on idle when a load is selected, A/C or DEF on, place in gear if auto, turn steering wheel, etc.

Electrical noise? A hum? Can you locate it with the key on and listen in the engine compartment?

all rite well i was messing with the iroc yesterday and decided to try to get the gas out of the gas tank that was my problem lots of water in it put some see foam in it and mixed some high octane in just a little runs alot better just got to work the water out of the tank and i got to adjust the tps a little so now that i got it running to move it around in the yard o yea i pick up a 4 bolt main 327 and some double hump heads a my neighbor gave me so thats going in the car now after i get dont building the crap out of the motor

man i dont know whats wrong with the car i give up i cant figure it out

My 85 does the same if the battery is low. If there is not enough voltage the starter will not engage and the solonoid will chatter loudly. If it will start and the voltage is still low it will not run properly. The computer nees the proper voltage to function as designed. Make swure your battery has a FULL charge and all connections are sound. If the battery was dead it will take a while to learn itself again.

well i have a new battery in it after you crank it it still reads 8 volts but when drivin it it will read about 13 volts i checked the alternator and i am getting a for charge from it

Once the engine is started and an OE designed alternator is attached, no 1-wire type, the alt should be outputing 14 volts from start-up.

If the battery reads 8 volts during, the battery is not big enough or cables are too small resulting in current losses from the cables.

You might have to run a #8 AWG wire from the alt BAT terminal to the postive post of the battery and a ground wire from the alt case to engine block to handle the charging current. A battery drained as low as 8 volts will need alot of current to charge back up, meaning it may take some time for voltage to come up to 14 volts, say 1-2 minutes.