I just took out my leaf springs. To my surprise, one leaf spring was broken in the front spring mount.

Now I have to buy new leaf springs. My question is what do I do? Buy new mono's or go multi?

I have a 3:08 8.2 10 bolt posi with a M20 4 speed and a 327 pushing probably about 350 hp.

I have all the parts for the mono springs. I'd assume that I would need all new mounting parts and new shocksd should I change to multi's.

Is it worth the money and effort to convert to multi's? Or should I just stay with the mono's?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

There are always fiberglass springs.
http://www.flex-a-form.com/products.asp & others

I do not like to add weight to my car,multi leafs are a lot heavyier than mono leafs.
I took off 70 LBS (IIRC) switching from multileafs to fiberglass monos.

MBHD

You could switch to 3 leaf springs. They will work with your current mono shock, fit in the perch and everything.

If you were to switch to factory style multi leafs (4 or 5 leaf) the say you would either need new shocks or shock extenders to use with your current shocks. With any springs you will need new bushings and spring pads or isolators whatever you want to call them.

Where can you get 3 leaf springs?

Are you sure all the mounts and brackets will fit?

There's a sticky in the suspension section with details on a 3 leaf sold by JCWhitney.

Yeah, I read that. Someone posted this link http://1967-81camarocarparts.com/catalogPDFs/F1%2006%20suspension.pdf
who sells a 3 leaf replacement for a mono.

Does anyone have any experience with them?

The prices seem reasonable.

Where can you get 3 leaf springs?

Are you sure all the mounts and brackets will fit?

I got mine from JCW. But I hear they are having a hard time with orders. But I think there are other places. Everything that you have mono will work with the 3 leafs. I orginally did this swap. Then I changed to a 12 bolt rear end. I am still using the 3 leafs, but needed to change a few other items. If you are in need of some monos I still have the orginals that I took off. But they would have to be resprung. PM me if you want to go that way.

I have new 5 leafs in a 1967 and the rear end sits very high. I just installed 3 leafs (from JCWhitney) in my 1969 big block, and IMO has a perfect stance with 1" lowering Hotchkis coils in the front.

I have new 5 leafs in a 1967 and the rear end sits very high. I just installed 3 leafs (from JCWhitney) in my 1969 big block, and IMO has a perfect stance with 1" lowering Hotchkis coils in the front.

I agree with you. I think the 3 leafs and a 1" lowering front spring gives a perfect stance. But I used the Eibach springs instead. This is on my 69 with a SB.

I was checking prices from JCW and Classic Muscle and the Classic muscle (a Chevy Dealer) has 3 spring GM direct mono replacements for $119 for the pair...and they're GM!

I purchased those.

Thanks for all the advice.

I don't think GM ever made 3-leaf mono replacements but hope you are right nowadays!!

As for buying new mono's!

Nobody re-pop's mono's b/c they are double tapered!

A stock mono is 2.75" wide on each end and thin and 2.25" in the middle and thick and they have a bottom locating "tit" on them!

Leaf springs are 2.5" wide and the same thickness pretty-much along their length and have a bolt through them that locate's them both top and bottom.

The 3-leaf mono replacement springs are the same width as the mono's so fit fine except we have to trim the lips off the sides of the center pads. They have a countersunk headed 5/16" bolt so are smooth on top and locate w/ the bottom nut.

Here is the info that I've saved on this that's probably also in the sticky!

"Here's the information on these springs. They are made by S&G Enterprises, Inc. Their website is S&G Enterprises and the part # is 21-245. They are made in Mexico. This same part shows up on this website Triangle Spring as factory replacement springs. They don't list the details such as spring rate on either site though.
My JCW cat. is number 671J-02 and the spring number is 94UA2669X at $62.95 each.

If this cross references to one of the numbers you listed which should be the second one down.
More info on the JCW springs. According to the sticker on the springs I installed from Vette Brakes the JCW/Triangle and VB springs both have the same PN (21-245).

I am going to assume they are the same spring given the PN and the fact my VB springs were labeled "Triangle". This would make the JCW springs #130.

The curious thing is after the install my rear end is about an inch higher with the VB springs than other who have used the JCW springs. (Yes, everything was tightened after it was on the ground)
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27619
Here is the thread with the info on my VB springs.
http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum...2.html?#000000
Just trying to keep all the pertinent info in one thread.
St. Louis Spring = 1-314-533-2132, Mon-Fri 7:30-4:30. Per Mike P.
www.johnrspring.com phone # 1800-521-0563 hope that helps let me know."


And I have JCW's 3-leaf mono replacements under my car except that I added the second and third leaf's to each side from my old '68 'Bird's broken multi's to better balance out my now about 525 pound front coil springs! She set's way high, just about right for a pair of L-60/14's in back. (Mine measure a modern 298/53-14!!)..

pdq67

PS., I used a 5/16" x so long carriage bolt by grinding the square off that's under the head to put my combination together. Just rethread it is all...

I just whacked h-ll outta the top heads using my 3 pound Ford Tool after tightening them together and went!! Work's fine!

I have a new question for everyone.

I removed my old leaf springs, the problem I have is with the front spring pocket.

I can't get the bolt out to remove it from the leaf spring.

I've cut the nut off with a cut-off wheel, I've WD-40'd the whole thing, I've turned the bolt with a breaker bar and I've tried to beat it out with a hammer and a air chisel.

Nothing seems to get the bolt out.

I feel like it may be easier just buying a new spring pocket.

Any suggestions???

I have a new question for everyone.

I removed my old leaf springs, the problem I have is with the front spring pocket.

I can't get the bolt out to remove it from the leaf spring.

I've cut the nut off with a cut-off wheel, I've WD-40'd the whole thing, I've turned the bolt with a breaker bar and I've tried to beat it out with a hammer and a air chisel.

Nothing seems to get the bolt out.

I feel like it may be easier just buying a new spring pocket.

Any suggestions???

Keep soaking it, but with PBBlaster. It does a better job on rusty parts. Or if you can get your hands on a can of Kroil. Usually the problem regarding the spring pockets are the 3 jnuts that break their weld and spin while trying to get them out. If you haven't done that yet and they are the orginal jnuts. Replace them. You can get them at your local Ace hardware store. Get the ones with the CIP stamping on them. Big sticky on this issue.

That's what happened to me, I broke some of them while trying to get them out. So I just replaced them all....

I don't think you can take the front bolts out w/o removing the mounts!!

And then the darned clip-nuts tend to break!!

Which means I had to get my $10, HFT, el-cheapo, 4.5" angle grinder out to cut the heads off and remove them!!

What a pain, but it works great!! Just WORK SAFE HERE is all b/c if your car comes down on you, it CAN KILL YOU!!

pdq67

Keep soaking it, but with PBBlaster. It does a better job on rusty parts.

You can either hit it daily with PB-Blaster for a couple of days, or drill out enough of it that you can get the spring mount off. I did the latter--didn't want to wait a week to get the car rolling again.

I think I'm being misunderstood.

I cut the heads off the bolts where they're being held on by J-Clips.

The leaf springs are on the work bench.

It's this part (below) that I can's get the bolt out of. There is one large bolt that holds the leaf spring in. I've cut the nut off and banged the hell out of it, but the bolt won't slide through???

http://www.rickscamaros.com/images/rfg/medium/m_SS-63L.jpg (http://www.rickscamaros.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=SS%2D63L&dept%5Fid=3510)

I think I'm being misunderstood.

I cut the heads off the bolts where they're being held on by J-Clips.

The leaf springs are on the work bench.

It's this part (below) that I can's get the bolt out of. There is one large bolt that holds the leaf spring in. I've cut the nut off and banged the hell out of it, but the bolt won't slide through???

http://www.rickscamaros.com/images/rfg/medium/m_SS-63L.jpg (http://www.rickscamaros.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=SS%2D63L&dept%5Fid=3510)

Yep, that's the bolt I was talking about in my reply... we drilled mine.

I was thinking of cutting the bolt on the inside by the rubber bushings.

Sounds like drilling out the bolt was hard?

Whats PBBlaster.

Drilling out the bolt was a pain in the butt.

PB Blaster is a spray for removing stuck or rusted fasteners. I think you can get it at AutoZone or most other auto parts stores. Comparing PB Blaster to WD40 would be like comparing Bacardi 151 to Coors Light.

http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm

Got it, thanks. Great analogy!

Just use the sawall to cut through the bolt and bushing between the spring and perch. Thats what we did on one side, the other dropped right out.
Its not like you are reusing the bushing or the bolt so cut it all...

Great idea, I had'nt thought of that.

I will try it tonight!

Thanks

Sawzall worked, thanks again!