Hi guy's, I have been trying to get my tranny in for a week. I get the input shaft all the way thru until about a 1/2 inch and it wont go anymore. I twist and push and cant get it to go. I check all the new parts to make sure they fit on the shaft including the pilot bearing. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

The only things that I can think of right off are the pilot bushing, clutch splines, throwout bearing, and the input shaft bearing housing. Since you checked them all and they were right I would start it in and use the bolts to gently pull it the last bit. If they start getting hard to turn, stop. You don't want to break off an ear. The only thing I can think of that would stop it that far out is the bearing retainer/housing. Might be a small burr or rust holding it out from the bellhousing.

push the clutch in then try it.
worked for me

What you've got is the clutch disk not lining up with the bearing retainer and pilot bearing.

If it's in the car, just support the trans on a jack as perfectly as you can get it, have a helper press the clutch pedal, and plug her in when the clutch releases.

If the engine's hanging from a hoist, that methed is out of course. I've had the best luck setting the trans on something solid, even shimming to get it sitting at exactly the right attitude. The I use my levelor to get the engine at exactly the right angle, set the height on the hoist, and plug her in.

Sometimes you have to take the bell off, loosen the pressure plate, and realign the clutch disk more than once to get it perfect. Those wood and plastic alignment tools are sloppy, much sloppier than an input shaft.

All else fails, loosen the PP bolts enough so you can move the clutch disk, but it won't mov itself. Put the bell back on and plug in the trans, "adjusting" the position of the clutch disk as you go. Then carefully pull the trans, pull the bell, and torque the PP, all without letting the disk move. It should plug right in the second time.

I have two long bolts out of I forget what that I ground the heads off of that I install finger tight one above the other in the b/h to use as guides to help take the load off me!

Then I just shake the tranny on them until it pop's in!

DON'T pull it in w/ bolts or you may break an ear!!

NOT good at all.

pdq67

PS., might have ta put the driveshaft in and tweek the input shaft a tad until she pops' in??

push The Clutch In Then Try It.
Worked For Me

Bingo!!!!

AFTER YOU HAVE THE TRANS IN AS FAR AS IT WILL GO...

Have Someone Push In The Clutch As You Stab The Trany!

It Will Go Right In!!!!

I have two long bolts out of I forget what that I ground the heads off of that I install finger tight one above the other in the b/h to use as guides to help take the load off me!

Then I just shake the tranny on them until it pop's in!

DON'T pull it in w/ bolts or you may break an ear!!

NOT good at all.

pdq67

PS., might have ta put the driveshaft in and tweek the input shaft a tad until she pops' in??

this is another good idea to do in conjunction with pushing in the clutch.....

Jim M is right on the money. A fellow worker of mine fought one all weekend and I came in and basically pulled the bellhousing off, aligned the cluthc disk properly and put it right back in and it popped with right in. Someitmes you just need a break from it. Do Not pull it in as you will only damage something, if it is not lined up figure out what the issue is.

I had my Muncie M21 in and out three times about a month ago for new clutch, rear main seal, and oil pan gasket. I learned a few things along the way.
1) I built a small platform for my floor jack to create a transmission jack. Using this jack I had no problem manuvering and installing the transmission myself while laying under the car.
2) I removed the Hurst shifter in order to remove and install the transmission. The shifter can easily taken on and off when the cross member is removed. The transmission is supported by the jack when I'm doing this.
3) I experienced the same problem you are having each time I tried to push the transmission shaft all the way in. The last 1/2" or so wouldn't go as I pushed from the back while laying under the car. I hand tightened the four transmission mounting bolts as to hold the transmission from backing out. DO NOT attempt to use the bolts to pull in the transmission. This implies the bellhousing is mounted first to the engine.
4) Of course the car is securely supported up in the air for working. I had my front wheels supported about 18" off the ground while doing all of the transmission work. Pump the clutch pedal a few times. Go back under the car and push the transmission and it should pop right in. At least this is the way it worked for me each time I installed the transmission.
5) After installing my transmission for the second time and with the transmission at a funny angle I noticed a leak I hadn't saw before. I took the transmission back out, took it apart, and resealed everything. I haven't had a drop of anything leaking for about a month when before there was always a puddle.
6) Before putting the transmission in for the last time I decided to fill the transmission with Stalube GL-4 while it was out. I used one of those stoppers on the rear shaft and had no problems with oil coming out when installing the transmission. I found it much easier to fill correctly with the transmission out since it is hard to gauge the correct level when the car is up at an angle.
ColoradoZ28

I made my own alignment tool from a dowel rod. I turned down the front 3/4 inch to fit in the pilot bushing just using a belt sander. Has worked perfectly everytime I've used it.

A question on filling the Muncie when it's out of the car. Do I just set it level on the floor and fill to the top of the fill hole? I usually fill it in the car but I took mine out the other day when doing floor pans and it was sitting on the floor over on it's shifter cover side. I noticed just a slight leak so I rolled it over. Next time I looked over at it there was a 3 foot puddle under it. Doh

The problem is that most of the plastic alignment tools are not made with a tight tolerance. Just because the alignment tool slides in, it doesn't mean the trans will. I use an old input shaft, but if I have to use one of the plastic ones, I make sure it's as centered as I can get it and they usually slide right in.

I had the same problem a couple months ago. When I went to stab the tranny it would not go in. I realigned the disc. It still would not go in!
I pulled the P/P and disc off and found that the hole in the bronze pilot bushing was too small. I had to chisel out the bushing and put a new one in.( the bushing that was too small was also new). Bushing number 2 fit on the input shaft just fine, but after installing it. The input shaft would not go in.
This is with the bell housing and clutch not on the motor. I had the ream the bushing out with a large drill bit. Then everything went together ok.

my 2 cents,

Look, Jim's right!

"If it's in the car, just support the trans on a jack as perfectly as you can get it, have a helper press the clutch pedal, and plug her in when the clutch releases."


BUT be DAMN'D sure your car is cribbed up GOOD if your fat buddy slips in it to push the clutch in OR it may come down and KILL you!!

pdq67

PS., Jim, a Buddy and I are trying to go to SCS at Joliet the 9th, you going to be there?

PM back???

The problem is that most of the plastic alignment tools are not made with a tight tolerance. Just because the alignment tool slides in, it doesn't mean the trans will. I use an old input shaft, but if I have to use one of the plastic ones, I make sure it's as centered as I can get it and they usually slide right in.

This is something to consider. If you notice, there is a lot of movement all around with the plastic alignment tool. If you just install it, letting it hang by gravity while you torque the PP, it won't be centered.

With the PP loose, try to find center the best you can, and while holding it there, snug down the PP.

Your bellhousing may not be clocked correctly. I had issues with my trans install because I couldn't get mine to go in even when I had somebody pushing the clutch pedal in. It took two of us to get it in. I was holding it up, and twisting it and a buddy of mine had both hands on the axle tubes and he pushed on the tailshaft with his foot and after 10 minutes of this it went in.

I believe that if my bellhousing had been dialed in, it would have went in alot easier. Here is a link to the tool I purchased.

http://www.browellbellhousing.com/pages/accessories-page.html#


http://www.browellbellhousing.com/media/accessories/alignment-tool.jpg