I've got about an hour on the new 355 with a CompCams 282S now and I've driven around the neighborhood a few times just to check trans & steering etc. I have to rev it and slip the clutch a lot more than I used to have to with the 6 cyl. I'm guessing that cam doesn't like those 3.08 gears. Once it's rolling it feels fine on through the gears. It feels REAL good when I goose it up to 2500 - 3000 rpm. I can't believe the throttle response with this combo. It's so crisp. Just a little goose and it jumps from 2k to 4k in an instant. I can't wait until it's broke in a little more and I can see how it feels on up to 5 - 6k.
I'm pretty sure having to slip the clutch will get better when I've put 3.73 or 4.11 gears in.

Winch what is your set up?

What all do you need?

350 + .040
forged flat tops & 5.7" X rods
TF 23* heads with single 1.47" springs (120 lbs seat pressure)
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake & Perfomer 750 VS carb w/ electric choke
Hedman 1 3/4 headers
stock points distributor
Muncie M20 & 3.08 open rear for now
and of course the CC 282S

I think you should be able to tune your way out of some of this. I've seen 302's with the 30/30 cam do this and after some carb tuning and a new curve in the dist you could almost let out the clutch at idle. You are correct that 3.73's would help this as well!!

------------------
...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/ww.jpg), the '96 (http://www.camaroslimited.com/graphics/memcars/96ss.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

I agree that more gearing would help.

Try runnin more initial advance(like 16-18*) and around 32-36 total. The motor will be more responsive and easier to drive with more advance earlier. That's what I found with my 355 with a crane energizer hydraulic(228* @ .050", .480" lift) and 3.73 gears.

Sounds like it should run great though.

------------------
79' Z28...

I guess I still don't understand timing. If I give it more intial won't that raise the total? I think I'm at 14* initial and 40* total now. Won't I go to 16* and 42*?

That's why I suggested a recurve. You'll be wanting to see 12-16 initial and 32-38 total all in before 3000 rpm. Find a shop that has a dist machine and a tech that knows how to use it. The hrs labor is well worth it!! Make sure your floats are set correctly as well as the accelerator pump and idle mixture screws...

I've been told I can get a recuve kit for not much and try different springs. I might give that a try just to get the experience. Should I go with a lighter spring to start with given what I'm seeing? And is recurving something that is independent of the conversion to Pertronix HEI?

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 07-16-2002).]

Sorry I didn't explain myself better. Get a Moroso HEI recurve kit for $10. Go by their recommendations to get about 18-20 mechanical advance. Set your initial at 14-16* and then check your total @ 3000-3500rpm. It should be 34-36*.

------------------
79' Z28...

I still have a points distributor. Do I want an HEI recurve kit? If not, do I need to do it again when I convert to Pertronix HEI?

Maybe instead of disassembling your stock distributor, you could think about keeping it in a box next to your original inline 6 and tranny. Look for either a boneyard HEI distributor, or if you have the cash get an MSD pro-billet that will fit nicely with firewall clearances.



------------------
68 Coupe, 350 4-speed
Jim's Camaro Corner (http://www.personal.psu.edu/jxu109/)

Like Dennis said you should be able to tune your way out of it, but when we talked about your combo initially I thought you had some steeper gears in the near future. Something in the 3.42 - 3.73 range would be a little better IMO. You might have to get used to it too - clutches all have their own personality IMO.

I do intend to get new gears, probably 3.73. It might be this winter's project. I am going to do the recurve. I just picked up a kit at Autozone. It's for an HEI. They didn't have one for points but the guy thought the springs would be the same anyway. Any suggestions on which color to try first? I'm guessing the gold?

OK, now I'm confused more. I'm looking in Jeg's and I see 4 different kits for GM. They are:
1. Pre-69 Delco
2. 69-up Delco
3. Delco point-type
4. 74-79 GM HEI w/o computer.
The last one is what I just got at AZ. It has 2 weights a center plate 3 sets of springs and 2 bushings. I wonder what the difference is in the pre-69 vs 69 up. I got a rebuilt distributor at AZ but I don't remember now if I got it for a 68 or 69. (My car is a 68, the engine is from a 69 and I didn't think that would matter anyway if I was just going to use a stock points distributor). But looking at these kits I don't think I would want the one for 69 up anyway because it only has 1 set of heavy springs. The points type kit only has 1 bushing and 3 sets of springs whereas the pre 69 has all the stuff liek the HEI kit.
Man who understands this stuff.

One more dumb question: I do have to pull the distributor out to do this right? Seems like it would be a lot easier.

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 07-17-2002).]

If you are just playing around with the springs you do not have to pull the distributor. Just take the wires off one side of the cap so you can lift the cap off and move it to one side out of the way. Then take off the rotor and there you are - the springs will be starin' right at ya. I run the gold ones in my 383 - of course it depends on the "weight of your weights" but my advance is all in at 2800 - 3000 with the gold ones.

BTW if your car starts idling higher or surging at idle the springs are too light or the weights are sticking.

From what you said in the other thread I don't think you are seeing as much total advance as you think. You refrenced a 36 deg mark on your dampner (balancer) and said it was lining up with the 4deg btdc on the timing tab for a total of 40 degs total. That actually equates to 32 degs total and if you are starting at 14 initial that tells us you have 18 mechanical in the dist and I wouldn't change anything if the total gets there by 3000 rpm... You can safely bump up the total a few more degs for tuning and as long as it starts, running more initial will help off the stop light.

------------------
...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/ww.jpg), the '96 (http://www.camaroslimited.com/graphics/memcars/96ss.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

Is your cam installed straight up, just curious. I think mainly the gears are the stumbling block but you shold be able to sneak a bit out of your dist and or squirt form the old accelerator pump. Good luck

I guess I don't still don't get it. When I start to rev it up the 36* mark is down below the 0 line on the tab and as I rev it the mark comes up until it is at 0 then climbs to 4* before the 0. Wouldn't that mean the TDC line on the damper is actually at 40* BTDC?
Also do you think those springs in that kit (74-79 HEI non-computer) are goiong to be the same as the kit for points type?

Let's clear this up! Does it go past the 0 and to the right of it? That would be ATDC (after top dead center) and then you would indeed add the 4 to the 36...

Nope still not clear. At idle the TDC line on the damper is 14* BTDC (to the left as facing it from the front or above the 0 line on the tab). At idle the 36* mark is way over to the right or below the 0 line. As I rev it up the 36* line creeps up until it reaches the 0 line then goes on above it to 4* BTDC. Would that not put the TDC line on the damper 40* BTDC?

If you are using the degree tape on your balancer set your timing so the 36* mark lines up exactly with the 0 mark on your pointer. Set it there when the engine is rev'd to the point where the mark is steady (usually 3000 - 4000 RPM) and not advancing anymore. Then leave the timing setting alone and then play with your springs to change the curve. Right now you are either at 40* or 32* total and frankly neither will work very good.

36* of total timing is usually perfect for a 355. You might move it 2* one way or the other, but generally 36* is where it will run best at. Longer stroke engines or engines with "fast burn" combustion chambers might like a little less total timing - say 34*, but 36* will be very close regardless.

ps. After you get the total timing and curve worked out you might consider getting an adjustable vacuum advance canister. they are available from Crane for a just a few bucks. Then you can manually control the amount of vacuum advance - this is sometimes helpful at light throttle (like when letting the clutch out or when cruising) since you can add more advance when at part throttle. Vacuum advance will not affect idle or full throttle timing, it is only there to help with part throttle drivability.

[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 07-17-2002).]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Winch:
Nope still not clear. At idle the TDC line on the damper is 14* BTDC (to the left as facing it from the front or above the 0 line on the tab). At idle the 36* mark is way over to the right or below the 0 line. As I rev it up the 36* line creeps up until it reaches the 0 line then goes on above it to 4* BTDC. Would that not put the TDC line on the damper 40* BTDC? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Now this is getting confusing!! This is for me; TDC is "0" and the mark on the dampner lined up. 14 btdc is the mark moving to the left 14 degrees from center (your initial at idle). In your case you measured 14 and 36 degs to the right of the factory mark on the dampner and you marked each respectivly. Idling the 14 lands at zero (0) and rev'd the 36 lands 4 degs to the left of the zero mark on the tab (your total advance). If all that is right you are at 40 as you stated.

Eric's right get the correct timing tape on the dampner, all that hurt my head! I also like the adjustable vac advance. You could set the total to 36 with 10 initial and put the vacuum source on manifold vacuum and adjust it to give you 8 or 10 degrees additional at idle. Just enough added timing to help normal take off, same approach with an over cam'd automatic with a low stall speed converter.

I gotta go mow the lawn, try to stay dry!

------------------
...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/ww.jpg), the '96 (http://www.camaroslimited.com/graphics/memcars/96ss.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

Dennis,
Winch has it at 40 degrees. The mark on the balancer is at 36 degrees and it advanced an additional 4 degrees past that. The 36 degree mark will move to the left (advance further) as the RPM's increase and mate up with the zero on the tab then continue on over to the left of the tab zero to the 4 degrees before TDC mark so he has 40 degrees of centrifugal plus initial. The problem with understanding is that some times we are referring to left or right of the zero on the tab and some times left or right of the 36 deg mark on the balancer. Semantic antics http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif

Winch, get the 36 degree balancer mark on the zero on the tab and start playing with the springs. Lightest to heavier in single spring increments and listen to see when the ping below about 3000 goes away. Then hook up the vacuum advance to the intake manifold power brake fitting (not the PVC) and reset the idle speed (it will be too high) and mixture screws and that is it.

-Mark.

[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 07-17-2002).]

OK I think we're on the same page as to how much timing I'm seeing. I played with those springs last night and here's the results:
(The dist I have is a new rebuilt that came with silver srings it in it.)
First I put in the gold. Had to turn the dist a bit to get it to start. At idle my 36* mark was right on the 0 tab! And of course that mark moved on up so far off the tab when I reved it I couldn't tell what I had. Seems like it ran OK but I didn't mess with them too much.
Then I put in the black. Initial was 14*. The 36* mark didn't stop moving until it was at the 4* BTDC on the tab but I was at 4500 rpms.
Then I went to the silver that came with the kit. They feel weaker than the silver that were in the dist. I found that it ran best with initial at 18* and the 36* mark stopped advancing at 8* BTDC at 4300 rpms.

In both the black and silver test I had my wife telling me what the rpms were. (How do you guys do that by yourself?). Also I noticed the last 4* of advance took another 1000 rpm to reach. In other words when the black topped out at 4* BTDC at 4500 rpm it had reached 0* at 3500 rpm but didn't stop advancing until it got to 4* at 4500. Make sense? That matches the curve diagram on the recurve package.

Anyway I left the new silver ones in set at 18* initial and 44* total (I think). It ran the best I've seen so far there. I didn't have to slip the clutch quite so much. I took it for a test. Did a slow shift to 2nd at 5500 and saw the tach jump to 6000. Wasn't expecting to go that high, it just got there so quick it took me by surprise. Then I let the neighbor whom I had bought the block & crank from drive it and he was real impressed. He seems to be much more of a gear head than I am so I guess I got a passing grade. I think it lit a fire under his butt. He has a basket case 69 Z28 out in the barn he's been going to get to work on. I may have just given him some incentive.

Eric: on trying to get it to 36* at topped out advance I would have to set it to initial of 10* and it won't even run that retarded.
BTW I am supposed to be doing all this with the vac can unhooked and the line plugged right? And the line is on the manifold vacuum fitting as Edelbrock recommends.

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 07-18-2002).]

Go to thinking about this some more. It looks like I have a total of 26* centrifugal advance on top of whereever I set initial. Is the total amount of centrifugal determined by the weights and how fast it all comes in by the springs? if so what I need to make this work right within the 36* total target is weights that will give me only 18* of centifugal, springs that will bring it all in by 3000 rpms, and an initial setting of 18*. Does this make sense?

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 07-18-2002).]

Winch, 26* is what is available in your centrifugal advance mechanisim. That is a decent amount. The amount of centrifugal advance is limited by the oval slot under the advance mechanisim where the bushing/pin rides. I would not mess with that at this point.

The springs and weights will affect the RPM when that 26* of centrifugal advance will come in at. You want that to happen as soon as possible without detonation at WOT. I would be shooting for 3000 RPM.

Now about that initial setting...You do not want to be running 40* as the sum of all the centrifugal (26*)plus the initial setting(14*). It is working for you now but you will not be making the power you could be making. Try setting it at 36* instead of 40* at the top of the curve. The engine will start easier that way too.

Play with the lighter springs now that you have the lower (36*) setting. You should be able to use a faster curve with the lower setting.

All this testing can be done with the vac advance connected as it has no effect at wide open throttle. The timing setting has to be done with it disconnected but you can reconnect it when driving. The thing to remember is the engine will pick up speed at idle when the advance is hooked back up and you will be backing off the idle speed adjuster screw and reseting the mixture screws as well. The car will idle much better and cooler with this setup.

-Mark.

[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 07-18-2002).]

[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 07-18-2002).]

So should I put the gold springs back in and then set it at 36* or set it with the silver ones I have in there now? And are you saying to rev it up to where it is no longer advancing (8* BTDC where I'm set at now) and then turn dist counter clockwise until the 36* mark comes back to the 0 on the tab? If so I don't think it will idle there and I'm not sure if it will start right. But it sounds like your saying when I put the vacuum hose back on it will idle a little better and then adjusting the idle mixture screws will help even more. Have I got right?

I just wished I could see my tach while doing this. Relying on the wife is not good.

Winch, I know the feeling about having the wife in the drivers seat. Mine will do it but since I need it so infrequently, it is not that much of a deal. She is a keeper.

You don't realy need anyone else to set the timing. You can do it yourself. Try using the idle screw to rev the engine up using the lightest possible springs in the distributor. Have the distributor hold down clamp just loose enough to allow you to adjust the timing. When it stops advancing, turn the distrbutor till the 36* mark lines up on the zero on the tab. Shut off (or let it die) the engine and lock down the distributor. You might want to double check the setting after you lock it down. Now, hook up the vacuum hose and set the idle speed back to where you want it. Adjust the mixture screws and the idle will probably pick up a few RPM's so you will go back and lower it back where you want it and do the mixture screw thing again. You will be getting very close at this point. Your car should be starting easy, idling well and running cool.

Now comes the fun part. Wide open throttle testing at lower RPM. You will be starting with the soft springs and testing for ping at WOT and low RPM's (below 3000 or so). If you have no ping in high gear below 3000 RPM, you are fine. If you have ping, start working your way up one or both springs at a time. One light and one medium is fine and is in between 2 light and 2 medium springs. Once the ping is gone, you are in good shape. There is some more finessing we can do with the vacuum canister but once you get this part right, you will be running very strong.

-Mark.

Thanks, I was wondering if I could do this using the idle setting screw. I used it to hold it about 3k during break in so I should be able to get it high enough to see the advance stop climbing. Then I can see what the tach reads. I didn't attempt this at all with the lightest (gold) springs because it was at 36* initial when I fired it up. Not sure how that's going to work but I'll give it a try. Springs are easy to change.
On setting the idle mixture is that where I use the vacuum gauge and adjust them to get the highest vac? I guess I can hook it up to the hose that goes to the dist.
One last thing, I'm not sure I know what ping sounds like. Is that like a rattle?

Ping and detonation sound like a "ping" http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif

Rattle, loss of power, hard to describe any other way. Not running right. You can try the heavier springs and tell the difference.

-Mark.

Update: I came home and put in the gold springs. Set the 36* mark on 0 on the tab and all the advance was in by 2900. I think my initial then was 10*. I say I think because I checked it again later and it was as low as 4* with an idle about to die and up around 8 - 10 with a higher idle. This is with the hose unplugged and capped.
I then played with the idle mixture (with the vac advance hose back on and the idle set to about 850. The vacuum at first was 17 and I could get it up to 20 at idle but I was adjusting those screws all over the place. Not sure what I was doing there. Took it for a spin. Ran like a bat out of hell. I shift to 2nd at 6500 and felt like it could have gone a lot further. But then when I came back I was having sporadic idle problems, died a few times. Idle would be 1100 one time and 850 another. I thought about going up to one silver spring but instead I checked the idle screws with the engine off. I turned them in until they lightly bottomed. One was 2 1/2 turns the other 2 turns. So I just backed them both out 1 1/2 and took it for another spin. Didn't get on it but it ran a lot smoother and idled back to 850 pretty nice. Even takes off in first gear rather easily. I did notice if I pulled out in first and loped along at about a 1000 when I gave it just a little gas to pick up speed it has a slight bog. Got to goose it up to 1500 or so. I also noticed it doesn't start as easily as it did, have to give it gas sometimes.
I think I'll let it cool down and start it and run it up to temp a few times before making any more adjustments. I think I'm gettin there. Thanks y'all

Sounds like you are real close. As your engine breaks in and "loosens up" a bit you'll find that it will start to idle a little faster and you have to turn down that idle speed a bit.

Like Stingr69 said you CAN mix the advance springs. If silver is too quick and gold to too slow, try one gold and one silver. I go by feel with the springs since color and the curve they describe can be a little off.

Remember, changing springs will not change your total advance - EVER! If your initial advance changes when you change springs then you are idling "on the curve". In other words, the centrifugal advance mechanism is already adding advance while you are at idle - this will make your idle speed jump all over the place. Go to a slightly heavier spring if you are idling "on the curve."

So once you get that total timing set to 36* tighten that distributor down, FORGET about timing at idle speeds, and do whatever you have to to get it to idle at 800 - 900 RPMs.

Maybe you could borrow that gearhead neighbor of yours to help double check where your total timing is at. That will take some pressure off your wife - mine is nervous and afraid she will break something and then I'll yell at her. LOL

You should not need to run manifold advance with that cam and that much vacuum - period. The ported advance should run just fine. Mine idles just a little lumpy at 750 RPM in gear and has a slight lope at 900 in Park with ported advance. Also, I can stop hard without worrying about it stalling with my idle speed where it is. Your's being a slightly smaller engine will probably want to idle around 800 - 850 in neutral.

For a rock-steady idle use ported advance and advance springs that start adding advance above your idle speed.

Hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 07-18-2002).]

That is starting to sound like good news. I suspect the centrifugal advance springs (or vacuum canister) are causing the timing to vary at idle.

The centrifugal advance should not be starting to move below 1000 RPM or the idle will be unstable. You may need a stiffer spring in the distributor to correct that. Once you have the curve beginning above 1000 RPM we can play with the vacuum advance can.

Idealy, you want the vacuum advance to be fully deployed at idle which means the idle vacuum is enough to get the can to full advance. You might need to work on the can to help stabilize the idle. Are there any numbers on the top of the can near the mounting screws? Given that you have a decent amount of vacuum at idle, the can may be just fine as is.

The mixture screws may help with the off idle stumble. I might set the idle a bit higher and see how that works. Work on the springs and can with the idle at 900-950 for now. You may be able to lower it after we get the rest sorted out.

-Mark.

Didn't get a chance to play with it anymore last night. I'm not sure I understand the difference in ported vs manifold vacuum. There are 2 small outlets on the front of the carb. The left one is ported and the right is full-time. The book says to use the right one if you have a pre-emissions engine and left if not. I've been using the full-time one. So I should try the ported?
I think I might try one silver spring next too.

I guess next is just drive it for a while and try to stay off it. How long should I go before I change the oil? I used straight 30W with a can of EOS. So far I keep checking it and it's so clear I can't hardly see it on the dipstick. I'm thinking about using Valvoline 10W40 when I change. Someone suggested I use another can of EOS then. Do you guys recommend that?

This is fun

Glad you are having fun! That is what this is supposed to be about. You can easily switch back and forth between ported and manifold vacuum. The idle and mixture would need to be adjusted but that is about it.

It makes no difference at wide open throttle. It makes no difference at part throtttle. It DOES make a difference at idle. You will have more advance at idle, you will have a better idle, you will have a lower temperature at idle. The engine loves extra advance at idle. It does not like extra advance during cranking so extra initial is not the trick here. That is why the manifold vacuum is cool. The advance comes in just as the car fires up and that is good for the reasons stated above. Either way will have the same time slips. The difference between ported and manifold is that the ported tap is just above the throttle blades so if you are idling, no vacuum. The manifold vacuum tap is below the throttle blades so it has vacuum all the time. The only reason for ported is to reduce emissions and the "book" will not give you advice on bypassing emissions.

I run the cam in for 1 hour or so then change the oil. Run what ever you like for a viscosity. The EOS is not specified to be used after the initial cam break in but it seems like cheap insurance if you choose to use it one more time. I would run that engine for about 500 miles after the first oil change at 1 hour and resume a regular mantenance interval after that.

-Mark.

Thanks Stingr and Eric. You guys have been a God-send. I've got over an hour now so I'd better change the oil and filter. I'll experiment with those other things.
I just spotted a 66 ElCamino body in the local paper. Might be a good place to store my 6 cyl and 3 speed. I think it's the only model of bowtie I've never owned. I'll be spreading my ignorance across two forums then http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 07-19-2002).]

Already moving on to an ElCamino!!! LOL

IMO (and I have experimented extensively with both) with a medium or smaller cam the ported vacuum source works best. With a radical cam the manifold source works best. This is why:

2 reasons.

1) When you use a manifold source you add timing with the vacuum can at idle. While this will help the car idle smoother it also can cause some instability at idle speeds. When the car idles a little faster you get a little more vacuum - when you get a little more vacuum, you get more timing the car idles faster - until you step on the brakes hard and the power booster sucks some vacuum and the pressure spike makes manifold vacuum drop along with your timing advance and idle speed. So the idle speed can surge a little bit with manifold vacuum when driving - especially at lower idle speeds. If you drive a huge cam on the street by all means use manifold vacuum advance, especially if your engine idles high - like 1200 RPM for example. In that case you need all the help you can get and what little vacuum you have will be steadier at higher idle speeds anyway.

2) At the track when you launch the car manifold vacuum goes away instantly when you nail the gas. This causes timing to retard until engine speed increases enough for the centrifugal advance to start adding enough timing to compensate. The combination of retard from the vac advance and the increase of advance from the centrifugal advance makes a weird timing curve. So unless your distributor has been professionally recurved to work this way - don't do it.

Hope this helps. Enjoy your ride.

ps. I woudn't use anymore EOS. I'd just run straight 10w30.

Could that be why it died several times yesterday when I hit the brakes at a slow speed? I'll try the ported side. It just ran so rough at idle with the vac hose off, how do you get it to idle acceptably? Set the idle up more? Will one gold and one silver spring help if I do that?
On the Elke my thoughts are if I could put together an acceptable daily driver I could get rid of my POS F*** truck and one of my rice burners. Kill 2 ugly birds with one stone and pick up another bowtie in the process.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Winch:
It just ran so rough at idle with the vac hose off, how do you get it to idle acceptably? Set the idle up more? Will one gold and one silver spring help if I do that?
B]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, turn up the idle screw to where the engine will idle steady, that should be 800 - 850 RPM. You will have to turn it up a bunch when you change from manifold to ported advance, that's normal. Then work with your mixture screws to get the best vacuum and idle quality. But be careful, make sure both idle screws are turned about the same amount - just like you did before.

You might also want to double check your float levels as an overflowing float bowl will make it idle like crap. Also - you want to double check for vac leaks.

Only go to a heavier spring if the engine is surging at idle.

Eric

OK by surging at idle do you mean when its' idling it goes up and down? I haven't seen that. What I've seen is after acceleration and letting it come back to idle it will vary (one time it came back to 850 another time to 1100) but stay consistent at whatever it returns to. Now I haven't seen that since setting the idle mixture screws to 1 1/2 each but then I haven't driven it much since. Also I wasn't having any idle problems when I was running at 40* total, would that indicate I'm not having a float issue? And on the vac leak test, if I've got 17" steady at idle would you think I'd have a leak? And I'm not sure how I would test.
I'm reading the owner's manual now and haven't got that far.

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 07-19-2002).]

17" is a lot for that cam (I run 14-15" in park, 11-12" in gear), so you are probably idling at a higher RPM than what you need to. The vac reading wouldn't tell you if you have a vac leak or not anyway unless its a big one. Just double check all your hoses is all I meant.

Don't worry about float level for now I don't think that is a problem really, its just a good idea to double check float levels when you fire up a new carb - especially if you have idle issues.

I think the different idle speeds the engine returns to after letting off the gas is directly related to using manifold advance. If it persists after changing to ported vacuum advance try switching to the gold springs to see if the problem goes away.

ps. I used to run manifold advance on my 383, and when I set the timing I used to have to turn the idle screw way up just to keep the car running with the hose disconnected. What you experienced is completely normal - you won't have this problem when you switch to ported advance.

[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 07-19-2002).]