View Full Version : Vacuum tank for Headlights has sand in it.


6Z8RS
Jun 26th, 08, 08:58 AM
My paint guy just sprayed my engine compartment and had the vacuum tank sandblasted along with the brake booster and hood latch. The problem is sand/media is inside the tank. My question is doesn't the engine pull vacumm out of the tank and can't it pull it into the egine which would be BAD? I'm not sure how to get it out since the tube fitting are the only way in and they aren't in a egde or corner ans are very small. Any ideas? I'm sure there is some sort of filter I could put on, but don't want to see that and don't know what I would use anyway.

Summary:
1. how do I get media out of tank?

2.Does engine pull vacuum/media into engine?

3. Filter?

4.Where can I find the schematic to the vacuum lines for the headlight?

DjD
Jun 26th, 08, 09:13 AM
1 - try blowing air into the tank, use a long thin tube smaller than the opening. your '68 tank should have 2 openings on the tank which would make it easier than a '69 tank with only one.

2 - engine vacuum is no different that the vacuum you use to clean your carpet. If it's strong enough to pick up the media in the tank it will suck it into the engine.

3 - the '69 system got a line filter that I don't think was used on the '68 but I would not rely on it to filter out the media material it your tank.

4 - This is for a '69 and follows the AIM and Chassis Service Manual. There may be a need to swap the red and green at the relay for things to work properly. Also the '68 has 2 ports on the tank, remove the T at the yellow and black between the tank and the relay and move the black to the tank for the '68 http://www.camaros.net/techref/articles/ftecref001.html

Fred Ficarra
Jun 26th, 08, 11:54 AM
Dennis!
Knock it off! Ya gotta leave something for the rest of us to say!

6Z8RS
Jun 26th, 08, 12:03 PM
Dennis thanks for your comments. I'm not sure air is going to work, but that was my first idea as well.

68's had a check valve and a filter and I'm not exactly sure where the check valve goes. I know the filter goes between the switch and the tank. My has always worked, but I noticed the check valve in a catalog and was wondering if the 68 schematic shows it.

dnult
Jun 26th, 08, 12:45 PM
Could you drill a small hole (1/4") in a hidden area and insert a plug when you're done draining the media?

DjD
Jun 26th, 08, 01:00 PM
Had another idea since Fred had his chance ;) Try rinsing the tank with rubbing alcohol where you can either desolve the media or suspend it as you drain back out. The alcohol evaporates quickly so drying out the tank wouldn't be an issue.

I wouldn't rule it out but would save drilling and plugging as a last resort, these vacuum systems have enough issues with vacuum leaks as it is.

6Z8RS
Jun 26th, 08, 02:06 PM
Another great idea Dennis. :hurray: I had an idea of rinsing it, but wasn't sure what with and didn't want to use anything that would rust the inside. You have some good ideas my friend....if anything else comes to mind let me know. I'll try air and rubbing alcohol tonight and let you know.

Another idea I had was if there is some small flexible pencile size vacuum that I could use. I'll check the internet I guess.

alanrw
Jun 26th, 08, 04:22 PM
What about getting some thin tubing and connecting it to a vacuum cleaner? Get like 2' of tubing so you are never in danger of the tubing getting loose and falling off in the canister. I bet you can get the lion's share that way. Tap the canister and tilt it so the sand "pools" on one side.

alan

yellow69RS
Jun 26th, 08, 04:57 PM
How about a suction gun for spraying solvent on an engine? They have a small hose that might go through the tank opening and suck the media out with compressed air. If that doesn't work pour some paint or primer in there and "paint" the media to the tank, then it can't be sucked out by the engine vacuum.

Jeff

6Z8RS
Jun 27th, 08, 08:43 AM
Well, air isn't working. Getting some out but it would take a year of blowing. I'm not sure what the suction gun is. Got a link? Going to try and rig up something for a vacuum.

It isn't sand, but some black rubber type media that I can rub in my fingers and turn into dust like particles.

Joe Harrison
Jun 27th, 08, 10:14 AM
Make sure you remove the headlight operation switch from your canister if it's not already.

68 had a filter of sort, it's one way check valve.

I had this very problem and used the hole method, it worked very well.

On the inside area of the tank where you can't see it a hole was drilled with small bit first but ended up with a 5/16 or about .285 drill or close to that size, I don't have a drill chart to referance at the moment.

After getting the hole just large enough to get the sand and other debris out of the canister by using MEK (years ago, I would use IPA now or ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) This stuff dries very quickly and does not leave a chalk behind will blow dry with air and clean at the same time.

I then used the little hose the vacumm to get a few stubborn pieces. I went to the local radiator shop and had the hold brazed over, we then pressure checked it and also pressure checked with bubble soap (a soap water solution applied over the repair with the tank pressurized with air) and fixed a leak.

It worked great for years!!

yellow69RS
Jun 28th, 08, 09:56 AM
http://www.bobstools.net/Store/36157.html
This is the tool but a lousy picture. Perhaps siphon gun would have been a better description.

6Z8RS
Jul 1st, 08, 09:18 PM
Well, I tried air, siphon gun, and decided to let the painter take care of it after I told him about it. He said no problem, that he would drill a hole and clean it out and put por15 inside to make sure if it is rust or something falling off inside in lieu of sand that it will fix future problems. He said he might not be able to weld it being so thim and may JB weld it if he can't. All in all he sounds like he is going to handle it for me. Not his fault, but the darn blaster's or bad luck. I think a box of beer is in order at least. Thaks for everyone's input. Smart people on this site!!!:hurray: