I've read through virtually every thread pertaining to valve cover leaks in an effort to combat an annoying leak/s of my own.

It's a BB.

The builder installed the 'slant' setup below using rubber gaskets with reinforced (aluminum) holes. They were torqued down very good, but still leaked.

I took out the 'old' gaskets and tried a Felpro all rubber gasket. Leaked.

The covers are cheap chromies. They look fine, but with virtually 4 ft lbs of torque (50 inch pounds or so), the bolt hole areas started to warp :( Can you say 'junk'?

FWIW, the cover doesn't exactly fit over the entire head (aluminum ProComps)..

Here is the offending cover: http://www.chevelle.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=1886
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l54/HIRISC/ValveCoverOG.jpg


I'd like to know if anyone has used this (below) aluminum (or its variation) cover with better success?

I'd rather not toss out $200 for valve covers, but I'm tired of wiping off the oil mess already.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l54/HIRISC/YenkoValveCovers.jpg

TIA

The cast aluminum valve covers are more rigid and more prone to seal.

FWIW, the cover doesn't exactly fit over the entire head (aluminum ProComps)..

That could be the problem. If they don't fit, they probably wont seal well either.

The hold-down pieces under the bolts are there to help prevent warping. I'm guessing you are utilizing those.

That could be the problem. If they don't fit, they probably wont seal well either.

The hold-down pieces under the bolts are there to help prevent warping. I'm guessing you are utilizing those.

I agree re the fit, but I'm not certain if it's the valve cover that's 'undersized' or the head that is 'oversized'.

I'm using the hold-down pieces (they bend too).

:sad:

The hold downs shouldn't bend at 4 ft/lbs.

The hold downs shouldn't bend at 4 ft/lbs.

That's what I thought too.

Those aluminum valve covers wont leak. Plus they are good looking. I like them better than the chrome ones.

I used a set of the aluminum ones pictured above on my 454 but mine were old originals minus the Yenko emblem. They sealed perfectly, cleared my roller rockers and gave more clearance by the brake booster. They are excellent covers if they are of similar quality to the originals.

If you really want to use the chrome ones, an 1/8" bead of silicone on clean heads and covers with the gasket in between (clean surfaces with lacquer thinner first) is pretty much guaranteed to seal.

I am pretty sure I have the same valve covers on my car.
They are COMPLETE %*%$..
The bolt holes do warp.. and they dont seal properly.. I went through about 3 sets of gaskets before I realized it was the crappy covers not sealing.
In the end I used silicone and it stopped leaking, but I am going to invest in some new covers soon.

I'm thinking the torque spec on the valve covers is 28 inch pounds. That's about 2 foot pounds.

Thanks all for the feedback.. I'm going to spring for the new covers (above) and try this again.

Unreal: you might be right.. I read somewhere on here about 80 inch pounds (7 ft lbs) and I knew when I was tightening things down that that was waaaaay too much. I'm going to go nut-driver tight on the next set (starting loose) and tighten them down until the new covers/gaskets seal everything up.

I'll keep you all posted.

Be sure you're not over tightening the bolts. It seems intuitive that if you have a leak that the answer is to tighten the fasteners. In reality, over tightening the fasteners is more likely to induce a leak.

There is nothing wrong with the chrome valve covers!....Those are exactly what I used on a BBC I once had and never had a leakage problem.....This is what you should do for a complete leakproof seal: glue your best pair of valve cover gaskets to the valve covers, there's no need to use any type of sealant on the gaskets before installation.....Ditch those short valve cover hold downs and use the "long style" hold downs which will cover a larger area.....Use valve cover studs, if you have the space.....And most importantly, down over torque those valve cover bolts!, merely hand tighten them!.....My guess is that the flanges already bent or warped on the valve covers from tightening the bolts too much and using those "short style" hold downs!.....Just remember, you can still have leakage problems with the cast aluminum valve covers if you overtighten the bolts which will crush the valve cover gaskets beyond their sealing ability!

There is nothing wrong with the chrome valve covers!....Those are exactly what I used on a BBC I once had and never had a leakage problem.....This is what you should do for a complete leakproof seal: glue your best pair of valve cover gaskets to the valve covers, there's no need to use any type of sealant on the gaskets before installation.....Ditch those short valve cover hold downs and use the "long style" hold downs which will cover a larger area.....Use valve cover studs, if you have the space.....And most importantly, down over torque those valve cover bolts!, merely hand tighten them!.....My guess is that the flanges already bent or warped on the valve covers from tightening the bolts too much and using those "short style" hold downs!.....Just remember, you can still have leakage problems with the cast aluminum valve covers if you overtighten the bolts which will crush the valve cover gaskets beyond their sealing ability!

Well, since I have the power brakes, it didn't look like I could go with the cast aluminum covers, so....back to the chromies I go.

I ordered these from Classic Industries. (http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta%7Edyndetail%7EZ5Z5Z50000136f%7EZ5Z5Z5 ADOZR%7EP79.95%7E%7E%7E%7ES2EN00297P20916210635a%7 EZ5Z5Z5%7EZ5Z5Z50000136b)

I used the 20% off coupon code: PS4591 so they only cost $65 each - before their absurd shipping prices.

I'm going to go hand-tight (nut driver) only and I think I might go with some sealer. (dumb question --> what type of sealer??)

If using sealer, is cork better than rubber? The last rubber Fel Pro set I bought had a white film on the rubber - felt very 'old'. :(

Thanks - these covers are driving me crazy.

I have a world prouducts 454 small block they used cork gaskets and glue ,not sure the name. I think it is indian something or has an indian on the label. No way it could leak, it took two men and a boy to pry them off. But no leaks.
Wayne

I think Ron hit the nail on the head with the longer type hold downs. The shorter ones tend to warp the metal on the edge of the covers.

capt

I think Ron hit the nail on the head with the longer type hold downs. The shorter ones tend to warp the metal on the edge of the covers. capt

I ordered some of the longer type from Ricks - They were the widest ones I could find:
From: http://www.rickscamaros.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=C%2D9640&dept%5Fid=3148
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l54/HIRISC/C-9640.jpg

(http://www.rickscamaros.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=C%2D9640&dept%5Fid=3148)

Chris....Those are the exact valve cover hold downs I used!!.....They are excellent pieces and won't bend or warp the flange!.....If I remember, I used good quality, combination cork/rubber valve cover gaskets, with no sealer!.....As long as you just hand tighten them down, you'll be able to R&R them many times, without the hassle of a messy sealer!

No expert, but are you using a PVC setup, or some crankcase ventilation setup? You need to.

The old gasket setup wasn't so good, meaning the gaskets could slip around a bit.

Sheet metal covers: The little bolts holding the covers on tended to apply pressure only in the area of the bolt. The "pressure spreaders" may help. Try taking the cover off and placing a straightedge on the gasket surface perpendicular to the gasket area. If the cover is warped a bit from over tightening, you'll see it when looking from the side. Same on cast covers if they aren't the best castings.

I've got both a PVC setup and a breather back to the air filter, so I don't think pressure is the issue.

The previous owner used a hard rubber gasket with aluminum inserts around the bolt holes. That design doesn't appear to be appropriate for the stamped steel/chrome valve cover - because as Kev indicated above, the bolts stretch the area immediately surrounding the bolt holes - aka, cheap.

That type of gasket seems better suited for the cast aluminum cover.

I'm hoping my new dry/spreader/new gaskets/new cover/low torque strategy will pay off.