Hi guys,

Rubber aren't working for me, so I'm moving to the cork/rubber variety:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1606&autoview=sku

I'd appreciate recommendations on a sealer/silicone to use.

Best between both valve cover and gasket or between both valve cover and head?

TIA

I still like indian head but copper rtv works as well

Thanks Kirby.

You shouldn't need anything besides the gasket. Your valve covers are likely distorted from overtightening. Any RTV should work if you clean with surfaces well with a solvent first.

I clean the surface of the valve cover
Put several spots of the orange locktite gasket sealer/maker around the cover surface
then a light smear of oil on the cork gasket ...the engine side
Bolt down
This makes the gastet easy held in place and if need to remove it is stuck inside the cover
the oil stops it sticking to the engine
Dont over tighten cork gaskets.

I use to use super weatherstrip adheasive to seal the gasket to the cover and use nothing on the heads. Make sure the heads are clean and dry. I just started using the moroso blue gaskets with the steal core. I use nothing on either side of these.

I use to use super weatherstrip adheasive to seal the gasket to the cover

That must have been fun whenever you took off the Valve covers to clean ;)

No sealant necessary on cork/rubber gaskets!

I ordered two sets of gaskets - I'm going to try the new valve covers (non warped) with the cork/rubber combo gasket dry and tighten with a nut driver - hand tight (not maxed). If it doesn't seal, I'll try a bit more torque. If that doesn't work, I'll take them off, and re-start with the copper RTV and a fresh pair of cork/rubber gaskets.

I remember as a kid having trouble with valve cover sealing.. I guess the magic continues to escape me as an 'adult' :)

Thanks all for the tips. Pls continue to post up what works for you.

Felpro makes a rubber impregnated metal gasket that works well.

Cleaning was the easy part. Ajusting the valves all the time was the pain.
The gasket always stays stuck to the bottom of the cover and stays in place. Great for chrome covers.

I use cork gaskets with no sealer and have never had a problem. Felpro is the way to go.

I do the same as Dan, cork gasket and 3M yellow super weather strip adhesive on the valve cover side of the gasket only. Coat the head side of the gasket with a little engine oil and never, ever need to replace the gasket again regardless of how many times I pull the covers off. Been doing it this way for 30 years and never had a leak. Most of my covers are off often as my motors over the years are generally solid lifter motors needing lash checked once or twice a season.

I glue cork gaskets to the covers, then smear a light coat of grease to the head side of the gaskets. I see others mentioned oil, but I've always used grease, this keeps the gasket from sticking to the heads. No leaks and easy to take off for maint.

3M yellow super weather strip adhesive
Is that some sort of double sided sticky tape?
I never thought of using something like that..but hey, once the engine is setup, covers only come off once every few yrs..if that.
And that is only to give them a bit of a buff.

s

No it's a glue. There are two types of 3M weatherstrip adhesive. The standard brown weatherstrip adhesive, which I wouldn't recommend for anything and the yellow super weatherstrip adhesive, which I find works for almost everything.

Use it sparingly, the less the better it will work and allow the adhesive to start to tack up before slapping the parts together. MEK will clean any excess, but don't use MEK unless you fully understand how dangerous it is from a health and extreme flammability point of view. I've used it 30 years almost daily with no problems, but it is being phased out and in many states is no longer available.

It sounds like the Ados F2 glue.

I have been using this stuff everywhere for years. Incredibly good for things like ends of manifolds, thermostat hbousings, timing covers, etc.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm

Felpro cork gaskets and no sealer. :thumbsup:

Plain cork or cork/rubber?

Plain cork or cork/rubber?

I've always used plain cork.

A lot depends on whether your running OEM Tin or after market Aluminum Covers; but, either Fel Pro or Morroso Steel Re-Enforced Rubber Valve Cover Gaskets are a life long investment which don't leak.

Hylomar
MBHD

I think that means baby ummm crap.

I sealed my new rubber/cork gasket to my new (non deformed) valve cover but just realized that the design of the aftermarket aluminum head is not allowing full compression of the gasket because the edge of the valve cover is hitting a couple of plateau's on the head.

Here is how much compression there is available on the gasket - given it's depth related to the valve cover:

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l54/HIRISC/IMG_0494.jpg


If you look below the valve cover bolt holes, you can see where the valve cover cannot go 'over' the rim of the head:

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l54/HIRISC/BadSpot.jpg

Believing that this won't seal any better (or worse) than the rubber gaskets I just took out - due to the same reason - I'm considering using some black RTV between the rubber/cork gasket and the head.

Good idea?

Assuming so, should I apply it to the gasket and let setup or to the head and let setup between joining the two?

TIA for the help - I'm a newb mechanic and I don't want to have to do this another time.

Chris

I've also always been one for plain cork, glued to the valve cover, lightly greased on the engine side.

I only use alluminum valve covers, no worries about distortion from overtightening.
I get em as tight as I can with a 1/4" drive short ratchet.

This time, I used felpro steelcore rubber, no sealer at all. Been on and off 5 or 6 times this year, no leaks.

Chis, I don't like those protrusions in the castings. If a nut driver will bottom the valve cover on the head in that area, you either need to grind off the lip on the valve cover (alluminum only, don't cut the lip on steel covers!) or use a thicker gasket. If it bottoms, it won't seal.

I've also always been one for plain cork, glued to the valve cover, lightly greased on the engine side.

I only use alluminum valve covers, no worries about distortion from overtightening.
I get em as tight as I can with a 1/4" drive short ratchet.

This time, I used felpro steelcore rubber, no sealer at all. Been on and off 5 or 6 times this year, no leaks.

Chis, I don't like those protrusions in the castings. If a nut driver will bottom the valve cover on the head in that area, you either need to grind off the lip on the valve cover (alluminum only, don't cut the lip on steel covers!) or use a thicker gasket. If it bottoms, it won't seal.

Hey Jim,

I'd love to use aluminum covers for the ability to tighten them up more, but I think we both know that the problem is the flat spot on the head inhibiting the valve cover :(

I really don't want to pull the heads off and I don't think I can remove the offending head material with the heads on the car (or without butchering the head).

Is the thought to add some 'thickness', as well as sealing by using some black RTV between the VC gasket and the head a decent one or will that not add enough 'thickness' to matter?

Edit: another option is to buy a thicker gasket - the ones I have - Fel-Pro 1606 - are 3/16" thick. I'm going to see if a thicker version is available. If not, I have a 1/8" thick set that I could silicone and stack to the first set.

Any comments on that idea?

'Bad heads!'

I don't like silicone, especially on valve covers. Weatherstrip adhesive works good. I've used silicone, but I stack a bunch of heavy stuff on the valve covers and let it dry overnight before I bolt em on.

I do not like sealer on both sides of the gasket. I only use it on one side so I can set em and forget em, as others have also pointed out. Glue a good set of cork gaskets to the valve covers, you can have em on and off fifty times and not need to touch em or replace em.

I've been gradually getting away from sealer on all gaskets. Not all the way yet, but moving toward it. Felpro says thier gaskets will seal without gook, and thier engineers are smarter than me.

If the valve cover lip is bottoming on that part of the head, you need a thicker gasket.

Felpro makes a 3 layer cork with a steel center, it's thick and would work well for you.

Glue 2 cork gaskets together to double the thickness. Then as stated 100 times above, tack them to the valve cover with your favorite adhesive and put a light coat of oil or grease on the head side. That should give you enough compression for the price of 2 cork gasket sets.

I used a Mr. Gasket seal on my valve covers. I used the thickest ones they had, like 5/16 or so. I put the good ol gorilla snot on the Valve cover side and a light coat of grease on the head side . No leaks No problems.

Thanks again guys.

I just ordered a thicker set - per Jim's suggestion: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1630&autoview=sku

Since I already have the 3/16" glued to the valve covers, I'm going to glue the 1/8" on top, let sit overnight and re-install tomorrow. Best case is that it seals, worst case is that I would have had to remove the 3/16" gasket anyway to install the steel core gaskets I just bought.