Bought a complete brake kit from CPP. They are very light on instructions and wondered if it is necessary (or possible) to bench bleed a power booster and master cylinder. There is very little movement on the piston. Does the vacum eliminate doing this??

Take the master off the booster and try it again, you should get about an inch of travel or more in the master.

And yes, it is necessary and possible to bench bleed the master cylinder.

I second the 1" of travel. The M/C will require 15 minutes or more to get all the air out. When you think that you have the last bubble there always seems to be one more..........

vague instructions?.......The Master Cylinder should have came with two plastic plugs in the brake line ports, they need to stay in.

I put the M/C in a vise with shop rag with the lid off and full of fluid and begin to push where the plunger goes with a wooden dowel (it takes some force). At first you will see alot of bubbles then less then a stream of brake fluid so much that it wants to shoot out of the M/C.

I can not remember which but one reservoir finishes first and then the other. It can get messy at that point as the first reservoir again wants to shoot fluid out. Just place some sort of clean plastic to keep the fluid deflected....

The caps on the ports can be opened when you go to attach the brake lines. Then bleed the system furthest wheel to closes wheel ie: RT rear, LF rear, RT front and LF front......That can be done by one person with some small clear tubing and a one way check valve (a kit is sold by eastwood that works great) can also be done without check valve by putting the other end of the tubing into a container filled with brake fluid.....but takes longer......

Hope this helps put the brakes on your project.......lol

8Ball

Most new and rebuilt masters that you buy at the chain stores now come with bench bleeder kits. These are junky little plastic tubes and fittings with a junk plastic clip for routing the open end of the tubes back into the respective reservoir and below the fluid level so it CAN NOT suck air on the return stroke. I bet if you go down to your local store they have a core in the floor with an unused bleeder kit they'll give you for free:).

And I've been known to get fed up with the junk plastic mess and make a couple short steel lines that stay in place while you are busy pressing on the master.

Got it! Thanks for all your responses. Have the MC already bled and ready to install.

Thanks Again!