Hey everyone first timer here.. I own a 1995 v6 3.4 Camaro.. Recently i took the top end apart to replace upper and lower plenum gaskets.. At first i ddint know how deep i had to go so i took off my valve lock nuts and now i dont know how to retune my valves.. i tried to figure it out but now my engine is all backfiring and messed up haha.. PLEASE someone forward me a tutorial or something that will help me out with this problem... my friend says i need to get a clearance tool
i dont even know where to start. the car has been down for 2 months and i wanna drive it SOOOOO bad...

thnx wes

If I recall correctly the valves are not adjustible on the GM 3.4, you torque them to a preset level and call it good. You might get the torque spec's from the service dept or parts desk at your local Chevy dealer.

at any point in time are the push rods suppose to be able to slide up and down or turn???right now im hand cranking my engine to get the rods go down far as possible then i tighten the lock nut on top till i can just spin the rod with my finger tips... and so the rod doesnt slide up in down by itself.. if im doing it right so far am i suppose to tighten them past the point of being able to finger turn them ?

at any point in time are the push rods suppose to be able to slide up and down or turn???right now im hand cranking my engine to get the rods go down far as possible then i tighten the lock nut on top till i can just spin the rod with my finger tips... and so the rod doesnt slide up in down by itself.. if im doing it right so far am i suppose to tighten them past the point of being able to finger turn them ?

im not sure about non adjustable valves, but if oyu are doing valved on a normal SBC, you keep tightening them until there there starts to be a slight resistance in the push rod and you are good

let me get my haynes manual for camaros, im pretty sure it covers the v6's

ok, my book says to do the following:

"Adjust each valve by backing off the rocker arm nut while feeling for play in the pushrod. when movement is felt, start tightening the rocker arm nut untill all lash (play) is eliminated. this can be dertermined by wiggling the push rod up and down, when you can no longer feel movement the lash is taken up. at this point, tighten the rocker arm nut an additional 3/4 turn."


this is of course when both valves are fully closed.

ok, my book says to do the following:

"Adjust each valve by backing off the rocker arm nut while feeling for play in the pushrod. when movement is felt, start tightening the rocker arm nut untill all lash (play) is eliminated. this can be dertermined by wiggling the push rod up and down, when you can no longer feel movement the lash is taken up. at this point, tighten the rocker arm nut an additional 3/4 turn."


this is of course when both valves are fully closed.

What book are you using? I don't think it pertains to a modern 3.4 V6...

Wes - I would hand tighten your rocker nuts snug and a nudge and turn the engine over and see how the push rods seem. Then you can torque them to maybe 19 ft lbs (I'm taking a stab at the torque, again call the dealer) and go from there... I saw a video once on a tool where they remove the pushrods without even touching the rockers, they compressed the springs and pulled the push rods. When you know a valve is closed there should be some kind of pre-load, I can't tell you if you should be able to spin the push rods though...

What book are you using? I don't think it pertains to a modern 3.4 V6...

Wes - I would hand tighten your rocker nuts snug and a nudge and turn the engine over and see how the push rods seem. Then you can torque them to maybe 19 ft lbs (I'm taking a stab at the torque, again call the dealer) and go from there... I saw a video once on a tool where they remove the pushrods without even touching the rockers, they compressed the springs and pulled the push rods. When you know a valve is closed there should be some kind of pre-load, I can't tell you if you should be able to spin the push rods though...

haynes for the 93-95 3.4l v6 camaro

Wes,
The first thing is .... did you have the pushrods out ? If so, did you notice that they are different lengths ? A lot of guys, including professional techs make this mistake the first time they do a 2.8 / 3.4 If you mix them up, it will bend valves :(

The early 2.8's had adjustable valves. I am not sure when they changed or if any of the 3.4's were adjustable or not. Look at the stud that the rocker goes on. If it is the same size all the way from top to bottom, then the valves are adjustable. If the threaded part on top is smaller than the rest of the stud, then it is not adjustable, you simply tighten the nuts.

I have a book at the shop that will tell me for sure.

If they are adjustable, then you are doing it correctly, only thing is I dont like turning the pushrod, it is better to jiggle it up and down and slowly tighten the nut until you just get all the up and down play out. Then tighten the nut 1 turn. If you have any questions, I dont mind a call at the shop but ...... pleeeeeze make it early, between 8 -9 or so. 301-843-5700 Also, have your VIN handy, I can tell for sure if they are adjustable if I have the VIN.

I found 35 ft/lbs for the rocker bolts. And like billk said there are 2 different length pushrods for the intake and exhaust valves and if you get them mixed up and ran the motor, my guess is you might as well start pulling the heads off to have new valves put in. You can try to get the push rods back in original positions and retry but all the guys i've seen mix them up has ended up bending valves. Good luck.

heres a pic of adjustment and what valves can be done where.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/hereitis67/34adjustment.jpg