Yes, I tried the search and it flat failed everytime. I've only gotten it to work once:confused:.
Anyway, this past winter we were talking about the best way to rig-up linelocks. Some guys (Blackout Steve???) said to plumb it to the rear brakes. Correct? Reason? Starting line technique? I've got the little sucker in my hand and the next race is Friday. Thoughts? I'm thinking that the least intrusive way to set it up would be right at the joint for the flex hose above the differential. I would be preventing fluid from reaching the rear brakes, RIGHT???:thumbsup:???

Yes, I tried the search and it flat failed everytime. I've only gotten it to work once:confused:.
Anyway, this past winter we were talking about the best way to rig-up linelocks. Some guys (Blackout Steve???) said to plumb it to the rear brakes. Correct? Reason? Starting line technique? I've got the little sucker in my hand and the next race is Friday. Thoughts? I'm thinking that the least intrusive way to set it up would be right at the joint for the flex hose above the differential. I would be preventing fluid from reaching the rear brakes, RIGHT???:thumbsup:???

Hey Fred,
All line lock installations that I've ever looked at are plumbed into the brakes under the hood close to the brake master cylinder. I don't know if I would install it at the rear end of the Camaro. My .02

Freddy, linelocks are typically plumbed in to the front brake line, at the master cylinder....I ain't never heard of rigging it up to the rear brake hose, at the rear end!:confused:....Matter of fact, I ain't never heard of hooking it up to the rear brakes, period!, unless perhaps, you have a front wheel drive car!

My understanding is that the line lock can be turned around and used to prevent fluid from going to the rears, then you can lock the front brakes by using the brake pedal. I don't know anyone that has done it though. We'll be waiting for a report though Fred. :yes:

If it's any help, NHRA has a rule against it, so it may be a hot tip.....

Freddy,

I have mine in line at the distribution block under the master in the rear brake line, (Hurst instructions give you this as an option). I engage the line lock before I push on the brakes and it prevents the rear brakes from being applied. I gain control over the front brakes without sudden application of them and it keeps me from wearing out the rear. Plus if I disengage the line lock with the brakes applied I still have control over the car, it just applies the rear brakes instead of releasing the fronts. Much safer in my opinion.

Hey also loose those ancient jack stands. They are Killer dangerous and where out lawed many years ago. My best friend has 2 9 inch metal rods in his back due to an accident caused by the legs of that style spreading and allowing them to colaspe on him. He can't even pick-up his daughter to hold her anymore. BAD NEWS!!!!! Just My Opinion.

Mine is on my front brakes at the MC.
Push hell out of brakes, engage lock, release brake pedal, do burnout. Simple, and that's all I use it for.

Thanks men!
Tony, those stands were the best available when new about 30 years ago. Now that the mortage is paid, yeah, time for something better. Also your method of plumbing is what I recall from last winter. Sounds good. Anybody have a reason not to do it that way? (besides NHRA rules) Oh, go MARINERS! Gotta go. 7th inning!

I remember the previous posts on this...! IMO (and Hursts) if you're drag racing you plumb it on the FRONT brakes, no question about it...only plumb to the rear to help 'hill holding' (why you'd want to do that beats me!)...
Install instructions- courtesy of Summit racing:

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/huu-1745000%282%291.pdf

Hey Fred :), the line lock can simply be mounted anywhere along any brake line. There is no reason or rule anywhere that I'm aware of that says it must be at the master.
I mounted mine where it was not very visible low on the subframe.

The way to mount it so it isolates your rear brakes and allows you to use your fronts as normal, is to plumb it into the rear line.
The line lock device is simply a solenoid that with stop fluid moving. Whether that's back to the master or from the master, the it's axactly the same.

These are my results..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZmIZhfddZQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTqAHhLni2A

Drive with normal braking without burning up your rears. :thumbsup:
You will have a slightly harder pedal. -only difference. ;)

Steve

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Kev

In later model street cars, one has to plumb the lockout from the distribution block to avoid only locking one front wheel and plug the port just removed.

Later models with ABS, you have to pull the fuse to disable ABS.

Steve! Hey, I remembered your video. Maybe old age isn't as bad as I thought!
Well, maybe it is. Yesterday I was mounting my new MSD digital two step. I went to the tool box to grab my electrical tape. Gone! Whaaaaa???!! I looked in the drawer 3 times over the next hour and a half, all between searches of the rest of the house. Nothing! Even called my wife at work. It must be her fault! Then I looked in the drawer a fourth time. There it was. Black tape on a red tool drawer. Right where I always keep it. Lost an hour and a half. Whew.
And thanks for the help!

It's always in the last place you look huh Fred? lol

Thanks men!
Anybody have a reason not to do it that way? (besides NHRA rules) Oh, go MARINERS! Gotta go. 7th inning!

Yes, because if you plumb it to block pressure to the rear brakes if the solenoid is inadvertently energized you have no rear brakes. In a panic stop that could be a bad thing.

The better way IMO (and apparently NHRA's opinion) is to plumb the solenoid to hold pressure in the front brakes. That is the way mine is done, I just depress the brake pedal hard, energize the solenoid (pushbutton on my steering wheel), release the brake pedal while holding the line lock button, and do my burnout.

Blackout Steve likes it the other way because he is master of the burnout . . . I am betting Steve energizes his line lock with a toggle switch and uses the front brakes to control his car during those fantastic burnout displays he is so famous for . . . without scrubbing rear wheel speed with the rear brakes. I only use mine at the track and am not into classic car drifting :D

Yes, because if you plumb it to block pressure to the rear brakes if the solenoid is inadvertently energized you have no rear brakes. In a panic stop that could be a bad thing.

Well, at the same time, if you plumb the line-lock to the front brakes and the solenoid is inadvertently energized you'll have no front brakes! Thats a lot worse in my opinion.

Master of the burnout eh? Thanks Eric. :thumbsup:
I'm still waiting on those darn T-shirts. What size are you? I'd love you to have one. ;)

Actually Steve if I inadvertently energize my line lock I still have brakes in all four corners, just the front brakes do not release until I release the button. My line lock solenoid only holds pressure one-way so it always lets pressure to the brake calipers, I can even pump the pedal to add more pressure.

You send me a t-shirt (size 2X), I'll see about sending some YuengLing to you. :beers:

PS. What brand rear tires do you use Steve? I need a good investment for my retirement :D

Hmm what brand of line lock are you using?
I used to have a B&M which is a two way solenoid, meaning it stops pressure/fluid in both directions.
I now have a Sam Biondo unit, but am yet to use it.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sbr-ll_w.jpg

Don't try to send me the beer as much as I'd love you to.. It's illegal to post alcoholic beverages. Australian customs would grab it (and drink it) for sure.. :(

I believe I have a Biondo . . . been installed for about 5 years now.

Bunch of customs drunkards :D

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m319/jimzu1/Camaro/LineLock.jpg

Jim

Well, I hooked it up yesterday. Now for the wiring. I had planned to mount it at the rear flex hose hidden in the rear tunnel but it would have been too close to the exhaust. Next choice was just behind the proportioning valve. Clean and natural. No changes to the brake system needed. I just added a short connector pipe. The original brake line is wrapped in a steel spring so I just squished it to the rear and it lined right up.
A test and tune is this afternoon. I should make it. I was thinking during the night, that I shouldn't need to worry about using it on the starting line. Right? The two step should keep me from pushing through the light. Oh, I fired-up the new MSD yesterday too. Perfect. But I didn't let the car warm, just start. This is so much fun.

Update! The Hurst system won't work for keeping the preasure out of a system. Push on the breaks and the circuit WILL get preasure, just as if it wasn't there. So much for burnouts!:(:sad::mad:
Anybody have any ideas?:confused:
Steve, what solenoid did you say you're using?

Any unit must be able to stop pressure in at least one direction. Reverse the ports perhaps.

Hmmmm, sounds like the ticket,,,,,,,,

Re-plumbed and re-bled. BINGO! Perfect! Steve you're a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you! Off to the races. But I even have time for some lunch. Weird.

Good stuff Fred. I'm glad to have helped you.
Good luck and don't forget your video camera if you want to show us how well it works! ;)

Update; Video camera? Haven't had one since the '80's. Maybe it's time.
Here's an old story: New stuff= worse racing. Yep. The micro switch has GOTTA GO. It's made for a Hurst stick shift. I mounted it to my horseshoe with wire ties. Almost unusable. A switch mounted to the drivers side of the shifter with the button pointed to the door would work perfect for my thumb.
Next problem. The two step is on during a burnout. gotta shut it off at that time.
Next problem. Retrotek FI craps-out when releasing the linelock/two step at the starting line. What's with that!!!?
Next problem. Car was slower. Changed to my 95 pound injectors. No difference. What's with that too?!
Next problem. (forgot this one) The laptop would shutoff (dead) when I started the car. It's battery was dead and the vehicle power supply won't charge it's battery. THANKS DELL! Dell laptops have to use their wall outlet power supply or the internal battery won't charge. Their laptops are not designed to be portable. Wall power only. Or an inverter. And my Retrotek software will not record and display data on either one of our Dell laptops. The function just blinks off. So I have no way to record what my car is doing on the strip. I'm gonna get the Sony or TI backup off of the boat. The hell will Dell. Grrrrr
What a day,,,,,, But it's a 40 minute drive each way to the strip. Car ran great. Yes, I have a enclosed trailer picked out. Open trailers are outnumbered 20 to 1 at the strip. And there are only one or two first gens driven to the track. OK, I'm the only one. That sucks. My ego does not need to prove anything at the strip. I'm saving-up for an air conditioned model. It'll run off the generator in my camper. Then I can actually go places with my car. Like Hot August Nights. Whew.

Next problem. The two step is on during a burnout. gotta shut it off at that time.


If you wire your two step power through the normally open contacts of a relay and the relay coil power from the line lock that will kill the power signal to your two step whenever you have the line lock energized.

That will work well if you do not launch with the line lock. Usually you use a two step when launching off a trans brake.

Thanks Eric.