Has anyone modified one of these to remove the snorkel?
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/CowlAir.jpg

Since I don't have a flapper, I think that with the snorkel removed, the engine would suck air in through the cowl hood even at low speeds (where you don't have high pressure forcing air into the cowl). Anyone disagree?

Let's say I bought one of these with just the parts included in this picture...what else do I need to order to properly seal to a cowl hood?

Is there an extender that I'm supposed to get, along with the rubber seal? Since I'm looking to modify this part, I don't want to buy a kit with all new parts just in case I mess it up and toss it.

I know that Carl C. and others have modified cake pans to and used some type of seal. it is on his site, http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/ slide down for more info!

But I am interested to see how you approach this since I am considering something similar over the winter. I know there is a factory seal around the perimeter that seals to the hood for the factory base.

SS

I was just looking at Carl's site. I think I'd rather have the factory piece. I have a good friend that does paint & body work. I know he could cut it off, weld in a patch and repaint it so it looks perfect.

I may just buy a kit with all the parts and see where it goes.

I know you are talking about cutting the snorkel off, but there is the seal that mounts to a spacer then presses in to the air cleaner. It is removable the spacer and seal.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Picture292.jpg

There is the flange and seal on top of the unit, and also various spacers underneath depending on engine. I ran without the underneath spacer on a small block 67 with tarantula manifold. I think BB engines used no spacer, Z/28 used the spacer, low perf engines had it too, the catalogs show which engine used which spacer. If your manifold is taller than stock by a little bit, you could put the air cleaner in a press and push the carb flange up or down a bit to change the fit. I've done it.
The air cleaner element can be exchanged for a taller version for better air flow capacity and straighter approach to the carb.

I think the snorkel actually allows some air flow in the reverse direction, letting flow OUT. This may allow colder air into the engine than without the snorkel. Just a guess however.
David

I found a cowl induction kit here that's used. I'm verifying that it's for a small block. If so, I'm going to buy it. I has all the parts, so once I have it, I should be able to get what I'm looking for. My whole car is black, so I may use the black lid instead of the chrome one I have now. That's the least of my worries.

I'll have to see if the lower part interferes with my carb linkage and deal with that first if it does. Once I make some progress, I'll post an update here.

I'm going to run to the dyno today to get some baseline numbers. I'd like to see how the car pulls with the hood closed compared to opened. That should give me some type of idea on how the engine runs with cooler air. Probably not the perfect a/b test, but something to start with.

Keep us posted. I'd like to see if its possible to remove the snorkel also, as well as if there is any difference on the dyno.

I have a low cost option for you that doesn't alter the air cleaner and it's appearance under the hood. Go to you local True Value hardware store and for ~$1 buy a black rubber stopper and stick it up inside the snorkel end. It plugs the hole and isn't easily noticed by car show visitors. My theory is that this may force the air pressure into the carb by not allowing overflow out the snorkel. Here's a photo and with the good light you can see the stopper.