Can someone lend a clue as to how to get the differential pinion shaft out? I've removed the lock screw but the pinion shaft won't nudge up or down. I've even tried "gently" tapping with a hammer.

I'm replacing axle seals (one was leaking) and I'm stuck at this junction.

THNX

Usually they can just be pushed out with a fingertip.

Are you sure "ALL" the lockscrew came out?
The threads are right under the head, then there is a smooth shaft that goes an additional couple inches, with a smooth, not sharp end.

There may be additional items worn inside the diff, it's even possible that a spider gear has siezed to the shaft, or wore into it somewhat.

If all the screw came out, and everything inside the diff looks normal, give it a tap.
Remember, it can't come out the back. You have to tap it maybe half an inch, then spin the diff a half turn and pull it out.
If you tap it in too far, it will foul on the case and the diff won't turn and it will have to be persuaded to come back in, from behind, not an easy thing.

All of the lockscrew is out, I've tapped it from the back and it only will budge about an 1/8th of an inch. The spider gears spin freely when I turn the wheels by hand. All the threads I've read indicated it should drop out and of course mine doesn't :(

Help!

Anyone?

Try tapping it back in and out the other side a little bit. Make sure you don't get it so far in that it jams against the housing, then tap it back and forth a few times.

I like to get the end with the hole in it out first so I have something to grip the pin with.

Thanks for the tips, I verified the tip of the lock screw did not break off and I've got the pin about half way out and now is seems stuck. Am I going to damage anything if I take a pair of vise grips, lock on and start pulling / twisting? Any advise on how to get it out with the least amount of damage?

I only got it half way out by tapping with a hammer. Spider gears seem fine as do all the gears.

THNX

If there's going to be damage done, it's already done. There is basically no other way to get it out other than forcing it out. Once it's out, you'll want to replace it. If you can get it out far enough to drop the c-clips and get the axles out, you can take the center section out and work on on a bench.

Thanks for the tips, I verified the tip of the lock screw did not break off and I've got the pin about half way out and now is seems stuck. Am I going to damage anything if I take a pair of vise grips, lock on and start pulling / twisting? Any advise on how to get it out with the least amount of damage?

I only got it half way out by tapping with a hammer. Spider gears seem fine as do all the gears.

THNX

If you've got the end with the hole in it out then you can insert the lock bolt into the hole and use it as "T" handle to help twist the pin out. If the pin is galled or scored then don't worry about hurting anything as the damage is done.

Is the damage (if any) to the pin or to the gearing? It'll be tonight before I can look at it but as I remember, the pin really did not have any scaring or groves (that I can yet see).

Thanks for the idea about using the hole / pin as a "T".

You'll just need to get it out to see. Generally, the pin tries to oblong the hole in the diff. case or galls where it rides in the diff. case. If you get it apart and don't see anything unusual then you may just have an unusually tight case/pin.

Success with the Pinion Shaft! Pulled the axles and seals, looking at the wheel bearings... any ideas? Book says slide hammer but I don't have one. Any substitutes? No grooves in the axles!!!! :)

THNX

You can rent what you need at autozone for free.

You for sure need a "bearing puller" (slide hammer) Those things are in there good.
Even with the slide hammer, mine came out in pieces.

`

If you can get one, of course they make a proper "bearing driver" tool.

If not, you'll need a big socket or piece of pipe that will push againts the outer (NOT THE INNER) race of the bearing, and a 2x4, and a hammer.

Use a lot of care to be sure it goes in straight, and that it seats all the way down to the step in the ID of the tube.

THNX for the info!

make sure there is no scoring in the axle tubes where the bearings sit. I usually use a bearing driver and a bfh to install the bearing but a piece of pipe the right diameter or the old bearing can sometimes be used. Just be sure that you are hammering on the outer diameter of the bearing to prevent any damage. Be sure the bearing is seated all the way into the axle tube. The bearing will make a solid dull "thud" sound when it's all the way in. Oh and a little gear lube on the od of the bearing and the id of the axle tube is a good idea.good luck not a difficult job

darn I wish I could type faster!

gotta love this board and it's member's. Ton's of experience and info. O.K. pulled the bearings, ready to put it all back together. I know I need to "soak" the new bearings in rear end fluid. I'm noticing around the ridge where the old bearings came out there is what looks like axle grease (thick). This may be conjeeled rear end fluid? Is "soaking" the new bearings in differntial fluid adequate? Is axle grease needed?

THNX all

Make sure you don't get it so far in that it jams against the housing.

I am having this problem right now. I drove it too far and it's now hitting the inside of the housing and I can't turn the carrier.

Any idea how to move back the shaft? Do I have take out the carrier? I hope not...

gotta love this board and it's member's. Ton's of experience and info. O.K. pulled the bearings, ready to put it all back together. I know I need to "soak" the new bearings in rear end fluid. I'm noticing around the ridge where the old bearings came out there is what looks like axle grease (thick). This may be conjeeled rear end fluid? Is "soaking" the new bearings in differntial fluid adequate? Is axle grease needed?

THNX all

Frank, I'm sure you've finished this by now, lol, but I always put the axle bearings in dry then install the seals and put a thin layer of silicone over the edge of the seal/axle housing for a little extra insurance against leaks. I then basically pack the axle bearing with wheel bearing greese and make sure the lip of the seal has a good coating on it but not sloppy. I also put a thin layer of wheel bearing greese on the seal surface of the axle before sliding it in.

I am having this problem right now. I drove it too far and it's now hitting the inside of the housing and I can't turn the carrier.

Any idea how to move back the shaft? Do I have take out the carrier? I hope not...

Sometimes you can get lucky and turn the diff until the pin hits the housing and it'll back up into the hole. Just depends on how hard you had to drive it out that far. If that doesn't work you may try getting a long pry bar in there to back it up some or work some type of strap in there and pull back on it.