It's almost 1:00 am here in Big D. I've been at it for about 6 hours. I wound up having to remove the passenger side header because the Lakewood bellhousing would barely fit between the headers. Now for the questions.

Did any of you guys have to remove that bracket welded to the drivers side of the bellhousing? When I trial fit mine, that bracket interfered with the floorpan/firewall - I cut it off with a hacksaw and the problem was solved.

Next, it looks like the lip of the bellhousing is going to interfere with the lower clutch rod that fits into the clutch fork. Did any of you guys have to clearance the bellhousing or is there a way to space the rod out farther to the drivers side?

Finally, I used a dial indicator to determine how the bellhousing fit on the block with the stock dowel pins. Here's what I got:

bottom - 0.000
drivers side - 0.009
top - 0.018
pass side - 0.008

I think this tells me that the bellhousing sits too high by 0.009 on the vertical plane and is pretty much on center (off by 0.001) in the horizontal plane. Therefore, I should use the 0.007 offset dowel pins with the max offset at the 6 o'clock position. This should get the vertical plane within 0.002 of center. Do you guys agree?

Gene,
Im a little confused with the way lakewood recomends checking the concentricity of the pilot bearing and register bore. Wouldnt you need to have a fixture dead center on the crankshaft and dial indicate off that to the register bore to see if it is excentric. Im looking at the instructions for the bellhousing and they show the dial indicator sitting on the surface of the flywheel, maybe Im being thick but how do you maintain a point of reference, if you rotate the flywheel its not going to spin concentric. Are they 4 different readings off the center?
Thanks Rich

Gene,

My McLeod scattersheild had the same bracket. They told me it was for an earlier Chevrolet application so I too cut it off.

If you have the mechanical throttle linkage (not cable) you may also have to trim the scattershield flange for clearance.

The 0.007" offset bushing should take care of the concentricity issue.

I don't know about the clutch pushrod issue. There's plenty of clearance on mine.

Rich,

When a magnetic base dial indicator is mounted on the back of the crank it is set at a fixed distance from the centerline of the crankshaft. Rotate the crank 180* and that distance is still the same in relation to the crankshaft centerline, but not to the scattershield centerline (that's what you are checking for). Hence you do not need to center on the crankshaft bore with a special fixture.

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The Red Beast http://www.geocities.com/casanoc

[This message has been edited by CarlC (edited 07-04-2002).]

Are there any differences between the Lakewood and McLeod that matter? I saw a few Lakewoods at Carlisle for $150 with the motor plate but I blinked and they were sold.

------------------
Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).

I didn't bother to check for concentricity of the register bore. I trial fit the tranny to the bellhousing and it fit. I had to sand the paint off the inside surface of the register and then it fit fine.

With the 0.007 offset dowel pins, the biest I could get was:

bottom - 0.000
dr side - 0.004
top - 0.010
pas side - 0.007

Thus, top to bottom, I was right at the 0.005 max favoring the borrom. Side to side was .0015 favoring the dr side.

I'll be posting some tips on how to make the install go easier when I get the time.

Don't know about the diff in McLeod and Lakewood. Wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't the same design. My Lakewood says made in USA whereas McLeod is made in China.

if the factory can make a scattershield to fit without us having to jump thru hoops,
what is the major problem with the aftermarket {stuff} #@$^????
i dont understand why this is a problem,I have heard about for years.
I would have thought that these companies could have figured out what a chevy rear of the block bolt pattern is by now?
I shall stick with my factory setup,as it was a bit of a pain as it was when i put my centerforce clutch in last year...
Glad i took the flywheel and had it surfaced
as i tried Not doing that once, {Duh,cost extra money like 4 times what i saved in the machine shop costs,and i had to do the job over...},and had to replace the friction clutch disc...

------------------
'67 RS 427,4 Speed
Disc brakes,console, fold down rear seat,heater,
Radio Delete, Cowl hood,front,rear spoilers,
Black/black; white bumblebee stripe


[This message has been edited by cavemanmoron (edited 07-13-2002).]

caveman, I agree. I think the issue is that high revving engines require a tighter tolerance on engine/tranny alignment. Supposedly, the tranny is harder to shift at high RPMs if it is not properly aligned.

That said, several people here have commented that they just threw their Lakewood bellhousing on without bothering to align it and have had no problems at all.

I jumped thru all of these hoops because the Tremec installation instructions say you have to.

The 1st time I installed my Lakewood bellhousing I just bolted it on without indexing it. On my car (SB with a Richmond 5 speed) it caused excessive shifter vibration. The second time around I indexed it correctly and the vibration went away.

I also hacked off that extra bracket, ground a few clearance spots here and there and fabricated a holder for the factory dust boot around the fork.

------------------
Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

Caveman,
I agree it's a hassle. I know it's rare, but if you've ever seen what happens to the floor boards, dash and subframe when a flywheel or clutch and pressure plate come apart at very high rpm, you'd be happy to go through the hassle on a high rpm small block at least. Good inspection practices can catch most problems before they get out of hand, the scattershield is just for the problems that can't be foreseen.

Guys,
I hope you dont mind but this scenario has been rolling around in my head and I have to ask. Ok in the previous post it was mentioned that the lakewood bellhousing is already .140 deeper than the stock bell. Does this mean that the trans mounting flange will be set back by that amount? Heres why I ask, I run the auto gear super case and the main drive gear is set back .135 in the case, now let me add one more dimension the block saver. Is the block saver pushing it back another say .132 . If you add up all these dimensions Im wondering if the input dive gear will be riding in the pilot bearing. Thats pushing the main drive gear back about .4 . Any thoughts? Thanks Rich

hmm at about 100 mph my hurst shifter handle buzzes pretty good,i thought it was from solid front motor mounts,and a poly tranny
mount combo..
at 120+ the buzz is Really annoying
http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif
noticed this enroute to a car show on the interstate last year,after passed by a c-5 vette,so i started to follow him,at 140 he slowed back down,i stayed behind him and we cruised at 80 ish after a 6-7 mile high speed
run
glad no radar around,i Do need my license
My one uncle said a buddy of his blew a pressure plate and lost his right foot,and almost died about 30 years ago.......

------------------
'67 RS 427,4 Speed
Disc brakes,console, fold down rear seat,heater,
Radio Delete, Cowl hood,front,rear spoilers,
Black/black; white bumblebee stripe


[This message has been edited by cavemanmoron (edited 07-13-2002).]

cavemanmoron:

you still using that 3 mile long link in your signature??? You gotta shorten that thing. It's annoying to scroll on the page because of your signature.

------------------
68 Coupe, 350 4-speed
Jim's Camaro Corner (http://www.personal.psu.edu/jxu109/)

hmm how can i shorten it and still have you guys be able to see a pic of my car?
i wont show the signature for now,,,
http://www.camaros.net/forum/redface.gif Sorry

Oh my clutch linkage acted odd enroute home from a car show i went to yest.
I jacked up the front, put jack stands under it,and noticed my pivot ball where it goes into the side of the block had backed out,about ready to fall out!!!!!!
i loosened the adjuster,pulled the cotter pin at the pedal linkage side,and reinstalled the pivot ball,and snugged it tight.
http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif Duh i may have forgotten to tighten it last year extra tight when i installed the centerforce clutch...
{I never said i was a genius}

[This message has been edited by cavemanmoron (edited 07-08-2002).]

Nevermind

[This message has been edited by rick (edited 07-08-2002).]

caveman, try hosting your pictures on www.f-body.com (http://www.f-body.com) , they won't give you a url that's 5 miles long. And it's Free.

cavemanmoron, your car looks sweet! http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif

There is an adjustable clutch fork pivot ball available I used for the same problem. Can't remember for sure but think it was a Mr. Gasket item. Should be available from Lakewood also. Check your local speed shop or performance warehouse.

------------------
Steve

I just had to retighten my pivot bolt that bolts to the block,and the zbar is hooked to.
I am not positive if i tightened it completly when i installed the centerforce clutch a year ago; Duh..
i guess we all need to recheck if stuff is tight on occasion.. http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

caveman, try hosting your pictures on www.f-body.com (http://www.f-body.com) , they won't give you a url that's 5 miles long. And it's Free.
that site is not working tonight

Cave:
I have edited this post 8 times now, and still can't figure out how to tell you how to do this without it posting a hyperlink. Email me and I will send you the source code that you need to create the link below.

Click to see my Camaro (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/8a118c5b/bc/camaro+pics/67rscamaro427email.jpg?bcw8KV9A97U9f2_Q)



[This message has been edited by Dans67 (edited 07-10-2002).]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dans67:
Cave:
I have edited this post 8 times now, and still can't figure out how to tell you how to do this without it posting a hyperlink. Email me and I will send you the source code that you need to create the link below.

Click to see my Camaro (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/8a118c5b/bc/camaro+pics/67rscamaro427email.jpg?bcw8KV9A97U9f2_Q)

[This message has been edited by Dans67 (edited 07-10-2002).]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi thanks for your help,it is a short one now!!!



------------------
'67 RS 427,4 Speed
Disc brakes,console, fold down rear seat,heater,
Radio Delete, Cowl hood,front,rear spoilers,
Black/black; white bumblebee stripe
Click to see my Camaro (http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/cavemanmoron/vwp?.dir=/camaro+pics&.dnm=67rscamaro427email.jpg&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/cavemanmoron/vwp%3f.dir=/camaro%2bpics%26.dnm=%252767%2bCamaro%2bRS%2bSS%2b 427.jpg%26.src=ph)