I've read many of the posts relating to this topic but none seem to be specifically what I've run into.

Recently replaced the battery and cables and started the car fine. A week or so later, the car will not start and the battery is drained. I've replaced the battery and I now have power at the battery, but no power anywhere else. I can't even get the motor to turn over, click or anything. No lights, wipers, etc... Can anyone help.

Look at the horn relay and check the connection of the two red wires. One is from the battery via junction block next to the battery and the other red wire powers the rest of the car through the firewall/fusebox/headlamp switch/ignition switch.

I usually take them off their respective screws, wire brush the lugs, then stack them together on one screw.

Oh, welcome to the club. You'll enjoy your membership here.

There is a lead from the + cable at the battery to a small terminal block behind the battery on the core support. If it is not there or is corroded there will be no power as you have described.

I'm with Everett....horn relay!

Thanks guys! I'm sure it's something simple. Now that you say horn relay, I do remember this: When it gets hot inside the car, the horn cap actually heats up and pops off the steering wheel. I find the horn cap and spring laying on my seat sometimes. I have since obviously put it back on, but I'll definitely start by checking the horn relay.

When it gets hot inside the car, the horn cap actually heats up and pops off the steering wheel. Two separate issues, but they are connected to each other electrically.

But horn button popping off does not equate to no power for the rest of the vehicle, unless its PFM.

I forgot, You're welcome from us.

Thanks Everett. I'm at work right now. So as soon as I get home, I'll trace the Horn Relay and see if I can my power back. You've been a tremendous help. Thanks alot!

Everett. Thanks for your help. Was able to work on it over the weekend and I found a short in the purple wire coming off the starter. I fixed that and it starts up like normal. Now I just need to figure out why my GEN light stays on after the car starts up. My guess is another short somewhere. What do you think?

Stuck voltage regulator if it's the original type, bad alternator if it's internal regulator or maybe bad diode in there as well. Stuck regulator will drain battery too.
Jeff

Gen light has ign voltage to one side of bulb, and reg voltage to the other side. When alt is running, voltage will be applied and light goes out, or glows less depending upon current being drawn.

So, either reg is bad or an open between reg and gen light socket. Firewall connector?

You're welcome.

Thanks guys. I love electrical problems! I'll do some more wire tracing and see if I can find anything from the regulator to the generator light socket first. What's the best way to test the regulator? I know it's got 12V all the time, is there anything else I can do to test it? I guess if I can't find an open circuit, and the regulator tests okay, then I'll have to bench test the alternator.

Find the sticky of voltage readings for the alt and reg when off and on. Once alt is running, 14 volts should be everywhere.

Field voltage, blue wire at alt connector, should be around 3-5 volts maybe. Not there, then reg is bad. If field volts is there and no 14 volts out at BAT on alt, bad alt.

I think you have a bad/open wire/connection between the alt white wire and gen light.

Thanks again Everett! I'll check all that out when I get home after work tonight.