Finally got one of the new SHP block in from Dart, So far I have measured the lifter bores and they measure .8443 no taper, The center main cap came with no washer under the head of the bolt. I disassembled the mains caps cleaned caps and hardware and relubed the washers and the bolts with CMD-3 and retorqued and the rear main cap was 2.6407 the 3 center caps were 2.641 and front cap is 2.6408 as this will have to be addressed with a line hone.

I noticed the freeze plug holes on the sides of the blocks are chamfered and the freeze plug holes in the front and rear and cam plug are not chamfered.

It does look like the cam tunnel can be machined for BBC and 50MM cam tunnel with no issues.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/DARTSHPBLOCK001.jpg

Pic of the front of the block and the main caps, 7/16 bolts down the center and the outter bolts on the splayed caps are 3/8
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/DARTSHPBLOCK004.jpg
Just under the oil filter pad can be drilled and taped to 3/8 and dry sumped in this area.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/DARTSHPBLOCK005.jpg
Pic of the lifter galley as it shows it set up for factory roller lifters.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/DARTSHPBLOCK006.jpg
Pic of the oil pan side of the block and it has been stroker clearanced.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/DARTSHPBLOCK007.jpg

I will have this block in the CNC machine Friday to probe the block out for blue print locations and I will post what I find later in the day. Carl

So far it looks to be a clean peice and I noticed the water jackets are clean compared to the Little-M blocks that always seems to be full of shavings and trash!!

Its sure better then any of the GM OEM blocks we have bought lately and far better then any 400 block ever built. LOL

This block is about 500 to 600 dollars cheaper then a Dart Sportsman block.

Thanks for posting Carl, what was the deck height?

PS. Just curious -- 3 tenths on the mains is enough to need a line hone? Or that dimension too small?

Thanks for posting Carl, what was the deck height?

PS. Just curious -- 3 tenths on the mains is enough to need a line hone? Or that dimension too small?

I will know on the deck height later today when I run it through the CNC machine.

On the main line we like to see the bores closer then that you should see only .0001 maybe .0002 between high and low between housing bores.

CNC, i take it this is Darts new budget performance block? Sweet!! Ive got a few questions about this block once you check it out.
1. How big of a bore/stroke will it allow?
2. How far would you push it in terms of RPM and horsepower, I know its not meant for power adders and such but if a stock block can take it, then I would assume this would be able to take alot more.
3. How much are you able to get them for? If you need to pm me that one feel free.

Thanks in advance!

CNC, i take it this is Darts new budget performance block? Sweet!! Ive got a few questions about this block once you check it out.
1. How big of a bore/stroke will it allow?
2. How far would you push it in terms of RPM and horsepower, I know its not meant for power adders and such but if a stock block can take it, then I would assume this would be able to take alot more.
3. How much are you able to get them for? If you need to pm me that one feel free.

Thanks in advance!

1. Its designed for a 3.750 stroke using a steel rod and it can be bored to 4.165

2. Dart rates this at 600 horse and I think they are being conservitive on that one

3. We should be able to line hone, deck to you demension, blue print bore and plate hone, check lifter bores and learance if needed, cleaned and shipped in the U.S for 1795.00

4. If needed we can install cam bearings, freeze plugs and oil galley plugs. On the cam bearings we like using the GMP-8 bearing because the Dart bearing has 3 oil hole and no matter where you clock it, It seems to bleed off alot of oil.

The GMP-8 bearing we drill another hole at appox 3:30 and groove between the to holes which I think is a much better deal.

We do this to the GMP=1 BBC cam bearings for the dart and tge GMP-55-T babbit cam bearings.

Good info Carl. One of these days I'll actually have to take the time to lean more about engine building than I really know (which isn't much).

Feel free to send me that engine with it's done for "testing" :D j/k

We I probed the SHP block out today and I was very pleased with the lifter bore locations and the cylinder in X-location which is from front to rear were with in .001

Now the cylinders in Y-locations which is intake to exhaust we found the cylinders on the odd side to #1 was .003 out of location and cylinders #3#5#7 were .004 out.

Now cylinders #2 #4 were out of location .007 #6 was .006 and #8 was .005 out of location.

Compared to an 010 block where the worst one we have seen was .032 out of location this Dart block is a good peice.

The deck on the odd side the high measurement was 9.0259 and lowest measure was 9.0224 which is .0035 differance

The deck on the even side the high measure ment was 9.0282 and the lowest measurement was 9.0230 which is .0052

From front to rear both decks we with in .0006

Now the Ed from Edvanced engines claims the Dart blocks he buys from Dart are with in .0002 from side to side heres the link on this http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtopic.php?t=5704&highlight= and Ed has no equipment to do his work with and I wonder how he is measuring this??? any how.

Before any one gets say anything I ask Dick at the PRI-SHOW who runs Darts machine shop about the locations being off a little and his comment was we ROUGH machine 150 blocks a week and its up to the engine builder to make sure its finished machined to blue print, If a customer wanted a blue printed block they could surely machine one but it would surely cost some extra money.

Also the cam tunnel placement was good as well.

All in all the SHP block is great foundation to start with, I was very pleased with my findings today and all we will do is dial the block in just a little closer. Compared to the 400 and 350 OEM blocks we have seen over the years the SHP block is a great peice and I can see just using a block like this you can make more power over a stock GM block. Carl

Thanks for posting good info Carl. :beers:

I'm kind of surprised to see .005 deck and .007 lifter variation though -- maybe I shouldn't be ???

Great stuff Carl.Is this the block that Dick Aaron had a hand in?If so..should be a dandy.

Thanks carl. I have been watching for all info on this block I am targeting 6 700 hp.
One thing I just noticed today and I planned on looking into is the LSX block is 1600 and good to 2500 hp.

Nice pictures and info, hope you keep it coming. Engine blueprinting has be one of the funnest subjects.

Great stuff Carl.Is this the block that Dick Aaron had a hand in?If so..should be a dandy.

That I don't know.

Carl can you find out which brand and type or rods will clear out of the box with a 3.75 stroke?

As in H beams?

Carl can you find out which brand and type or rods will clear out of the box with a 3.75 stroke?

As in H beams?


The Callies Compstar rod would be a good choice.

Is it possible to get a longer stroke than the 3.75 with this block?
I've been thinking about building a 427 SB. I was going to use a Little M as the foundation.
Would this block be a viable alternate?

In case anyone is wondering about the $1795 price, this is damned reasonable:

I recently had an 010 block prettied up by a local engine builder that I know and trust.

Square decked to "0"
Install main studs and line hone
Plate honed from .030" over to .040" over
Cam Bearings
Screwed in Oil galley plugs
Cleaned to perfection and a few other odds and ends

This cost about $1100 in parts and machine work. The worst part is, it's still a 35 year old factory truck block!!

Is it possible to get a longer stroke than the 3.75 with this block?
I've been thinking about building a 427 SB. I was going to use a Little M as the foundation.
Would this block be a viable alternate?

That would be a better choice with a 3.875 X 4.185 is what I reccomend and the callies rods would work fine.

I have a Little - M Sportman with .875 lifter bores that I can bore to 4.185 and clearance the pan rails a little more for 2395.00 shipped it has a 9.000 deck if this helps.

In case anyone is wondering about the $1795 price, this is damned reasonable:

I recently had an 010 block prettied up by a local engine builder that I know and trust.

Square decked to "0"
Install main studs and line hone
Plate honed from .030" over to .040" over
Cam Bearings
Screwed in Oil galley plugs
Cleaned to perfection and a few other odds and ends

This cost about $1100 in parts and machine work. The worst part is, it's still a 35 year old factory truck block!!

WOW we install Splayed Pro Gram center caps, cut the registers drill and tap for flat bottom splayed caps, line bore and line hone, stud kit,clean and mag, sonic test, deck to zero, stroker clearance, bore and plate hone for 1295.00

I thought I was doing this to cheap !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is some more info on the SHP block.
http://gallery.barrymorrison.com/albums/userpics/10001/SHP_Brochure-1v2a.pdf

Reading up on this block. Why do you think it's only rated at 600 HP? Spayed caps, Thicker deck, thicker walls , better oiling ect.. I would think you could put more onto it. Whats the reasons not? Just wondering.

I do beleive they said that 600 was a very conservative number and a safe bet. Upwards of 800 and it should still be no problem.

This it what is says in the add.

The Special High Performance small-block meets the need
for an affordable, precision-machined cast iron block. The
SHP block is the ideal starting point for hot rodders, drag
racers, circle track competitors, off-roaders, and high-performance
marine enthusiasts. Designed for high-performance
and heavy-duty applications requiring up to 600 horsepower,
the SHP block is priced hundreds of dollars less than a fullrace
block. The SHP block is the best value in engine building!

Maybe the ARE being conservative:confused:

If you think about it 600 hp cut off is a smart cut off for Dart. Since they provide for 600 + with the little M and a just higher cost.

I think the reality is that the block will handle another 100 or even 200 hp. If people start using them.. only time will tell.
Here is food for thought a used little M is very hard to find partially beacse anyone who has one never finds a reson to get another...

Go down to post 13 in this link
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101461

Sounds great. Looks like a nice foundation for a blower motor with the 4.125 bore and making it studded.

Im curious as to the max stroke could be fitted into this. It comes casted for a 3.75, im wondering if it could be ground to take a 3.875 or 4.000 inch. That would make either one hell of a good 421 or 427 SBC. Might have to keep this in mind.

Im curious as to the max stroke could be fitted into this. It comes casted for a 3.75, im wondering if it could be ground to take a 3.875 or 4.000 inch. That would make either one hell of a good 421 or 427 SBC. Might have to keep this in mind.

I think the 3.875 would require a little more work on the pan rails and inthe inside of the clylinders near the cam tunnel.

Does the 4 inch look doable to, or not even close.

Does the 4 inch look doable to, or not even close.

I am sure it will but with the short rod and that much stroke there is a lot clylinder friction with that combo. That would require a rod like a Lunati Pro Mod, Oliver or Scat rod with the 7/16 bolts.

Carl,
In you opinion, would this block be a good starting point for a street only 383 or 400? Or would it be overkill? I am thinking about putting my numbers matching 327 engine block back on the stand because I can't keep from winding her up and I want to save her for posterity. I currently have a set of camel hump heads, a performer intake and a SMS stage 2 q-jet that I can transplant. Your thoughts?

Carl,
In you opinion, would this block be a good starting point for a street only 383 or 400? Or would it be overkill? I am thinking about putting my numbers matching 327 engine block back on the stand because I can't keep from winding her up and I want to save her for posterity. I currently have a set of camel hump heads, a performer intake and a SMS stage 2 q-jet that I can transplant. Your thoughts?

Not to hijack but I believe the answer is Hell yeah :hurray:

By the time you source an OE block and have it assembly ready your close to even money...

Carl,
In you opinion, would this block be a good starting point for a street only 383 or 400? Or would it be overkill? I am thinking about putting my numbers matching 327 engine block back on the stand because I can't keep from winding her up and I want to save her for posterity. I currently have a set of camel hump heads, a performer intake and a SMS stage 2 q-jet that I can transplant. Your thoughts?

If its going to be under 400 horse it would be a little over kill!!

If its going to be under 400 horse it would be a little over kill!!

OMG he said it !!!! OVERKILL

LOL just funnin with you Carl ;)

OMG he said it !!!! OVERKILL

LOL just funnin with you Carl ;)

Eric I know your finger were trembleing over the key board when you read that LOL.