I took off the dashpad and want to replace the dash plate that's rusted to the window with a new one. It looks like I need to cut it out and remove the front windshield. Has anyone done this? How do u remove the front windshield

The VIN tag ?
Removing it from the dash panel alone is a Federal felony.

If you search "replace dash top" there are a number of good threads, including pics. It is one of the most common 1st gen problems. You'll need a welder. And removing and replacing a VIN tag during the course of reapir to the vehicle is perfectly legal in all 50 states.

There is a fairly inexpensive windshield removal tool that is basically two round handles with a length of wire in between. You feed the wire through the sealer and saw back and forth all the way around. If you do it carefully, and get a helper to help you pull the glass, you can reuse the windshield. There are a number of good threads on how to install the windshield correctly after you are done.

The VIN tag ?
Removing it from the dash panel alone is a Federal felony.
Applying fertilizer and lawn weed control products inconsistant with their labeling is a federal offense too and I'm sure none of us has done that before....:D

Jeff

Getting back to the original thread replacing the top of the dash on a 1969 Camaro is best left to a skilled bodyman. In severe cases rust will extend into the upper cowl panel where the wiper transmission mounts. In addition to dismantling the entire instrument panel repair requires cutting numerous spot welds and carefully fitting and welding the replacement panel. In the past we used to buy an entire Nova dash from GM and just use the top as the front is different than Camaro. Now the top is reproduced.

Yes the VIN tag will have to be removed but I assure you that thousands of collector car VIN tags have been removed and re-installed without a problem. On many cars-70 Mopar E bodies for one-the tag is riveted to the dash pad. Just make sure the bodyman doesn't throw it out with the old dash.

I had to do the same on my car. One thing to be careful of/look for is if the top of the dash area is rusted and needs to replaced, the cowl itself more then likely isn't in the best of shape either.

Here is a pic (maybe not the best) of my cowl and dash top replacement -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/error3b/camaro_pics/100_1963.jpg

Not a trivial task and will require welding as mentioned above.

:beers:

Damn! Weeds in a dash cap?

Hey guys,
I have a couple of questions about the upper dash replacement on my 68. I'm not trying to hijack this thread. I'm sure others have thought the same.

Once you remove the old rusted upper dash, the lower section of the dash is free to move back and forth. So how do you get the angle (distance) to weld the new dash top to the cowl. I would think this would be critical to ensure that the windshield would lay completely flat at the correct angle.

If I remember correctly when I removed mine (several years ago) there is also some type of caulk to seal the top part of the cowl to the bottom of the upper dash to keep water out. I would think the installation of the upper dash would be a likely candidate to use body adhesive so that you could use the adhesive to seal the dash and cowl to keep water out.

Do you need to purchase the "correct type" rivets to install the VIN tag or does the dash pad cover the rivets. Does this also apply to the 69 dash pad.

Thanks for any information. :beers:

I did the dash top on my 68 as well as the one on my 69, so I have experience with both types of dash. In both cases, the sides of the dash are attached to the side of the cowl well enough that all I did was add two temporary braces (2x4 wood, cut to length) between the front floor and bottom of the dash to keep the center from drooping at all. I didn't take any pics, but if my description isn't clear, let me know and I can try to describe it better.

As you recalled, there was a dried out firm setting seam sealer across the top of the seam where the cowl and inner firewall meet, as shown in this photo of my 69 (you can actually see the 2x4s a little in this photo too).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/ekammerer/114_1496.jpg

Take plenty of photos and measurements if you need them, but for both my cars the leading edge of the dash top was even with the two little cutouts in the cowl. The original dash top has a tab, and it looks like that was used to hang the whole dash shell in place during assembly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/ekammerer/108_0827.jpg

I used the overseas dashtop, because the guys at Rick's (they had knowledgeable guys then, but I haven't used them since the Eckler takeover) said it fit better and was nicer than the USA made version.

We have discussed using the modern panel adhesives to install a dash top, but I don't recall anyone trying it or saying it would be okay. My concern (possibly unfounded) would be that it would come unstuck during a bad wreck and move and/or become detached from the rest of the dash. I trust my welds more than glue...

I cleaned the seam in the first picture up, coated it with rust encapsulator, and put a fat line of brushable firm set seam sealer across it, then set the dash top in place. I put clecos through the top and cowl, and on a few points where it attaches to the dash face, and then started welding. The lip where sealer goes is far enough from the welds that, as long as you don't put a whole lot of heat in any one spot, it won't bubble the sealer (or set it on fire).

As far as rivets, that's up to you. The replacement dash tops are have subtle differences, like the VIN cutout having square corners instead of rounded, so knowledgeable folks who would look for things like rosette rivets would already know the dash top has been replaced. I just used regular rivets on mine, and photo documented the heck out of every step in the repair.

Eric,
Thanks for the info....the one one my 68 was removed several years ago and I'm concerned about location..(didn't take measurements). If the dash top was welded to the top of the lower dash section it can be pushed fore and aft which will change the location of the top to the cowl. Pushing the dash top will move the glass seating area up or down on the cowl changing the angle of the glass.
I think when I get ready to install mine, I will get someone to take some measurements with reference points on the cowl.

Again thanks, I owe ya several :beers::beers:

Scott

In that case, I think I would just tack it to the cowl as shown, and then do what you need to bring the dash face up to the dash top and make it level and square. The only difference I found between the OE dash top and the replacement was those two tabs (I only show the one on the driver side in the bottom photo above) used to hang the original, so as long as the leading edge is at the edge of the two cut outs in the cowl, you should be fine.

You'll be able to see if it is lined up right, based on the little bit of contour at the base of the A-pillar where it meets the cowl. It just needs to be close, and the butyl/urethane will level and seal the glass.

You might want to start a new "please give me measurements" thread now, and keep bumping it until you get an answer. You'll have to catch someone with the windshield out, before they remove an original top, and they are going to have to use a level and a square, or maybe make you a template, given the contours involved.