Will a 69 muncie 4 speed bolt up to a chevy 454.

Thanks

yes

Yes if you have the right bell housing and the right input splines for the clutch disk and rear spline for the drive shaft, which you will have to measure the length. Also check you cross member.
I have a muncie 4-speed behind my 454 block.

I lot of 454 blocks don't have the boss tapped for the Z-bar stud. It's easily tapped but not if the engine is in the car.

Also, Muncies weren't good much past 400 HP or torque, but with street tires, she should ok.

I lot of 454 blocks don't have the boss tapped for the Z-bar stud. It's easily tapped but not if the engine is in the car.

Also, Muncies weren't good much past 400 HP or torque, but with street tires, she should ok.Very good point.:thumbsup:

My 70Z came with a Muncie. It now runs a 7000 rpm 454. Just use the proper Spline Clutch Disc for the Input shaft and correct Yoke for the Output shaft. BBC 4 Speeds used larger Dia input and out splines but I've no problems running the smaller SBC Shafts with 600Hp shifting at 6500rpm with P295 N50 15's BF Comp TA's. I don't know what Muncie you have Small or Large out put spline but it doesn't make much difference other then the larger spline is probably stronger. You can use either diameter of Drive Shaft and corresponding U-Joints providing the yoke matches the Muncie Output Spline and the rear U-Joint matches the Pinion Yoke. Drive Shaft length is not affected.

One thing I do recommend is that you run a Drive Shaft Safety Hoop, just in case you break a U-Joint or pretzel the drive shaft. I've never destroyed a Muncie but then I'm not a Drag Racer and don't Launch with Slicks. A Muncie is a Driver's Item.

We are dealing with Chevy Parts not Ford Parts - LOL

Also, Muncies weren't good much past 400 HP or torque, but with street tires, she should ok.

M22s had a straighter cut on the gear teeth that made them stronger. That's how racers could mount slicks on their 600 hp LS6s and run 'em! That's also why M22s sell for big bucks and everyone seems to have M20s and 21s lying around (like me.)

No, they are stock and the input and output spline count is a year deal. The early years, course splined and the later years fine if I remember right....

I have posted this before BUT have NO way of backing it up so please take this w/ a grain of salt.

M-20 like 425hp;

M-21 like 450hp;

M-22 like 500 hp; and the

HIGH ZOOT Supercase Muncie w/ the steel main plate and Italian gearset like 600+ hp.

And as far as stock 4-speeds go, the Ford Top Loader and the MOPAR A833 are stronger than the Muncies and the ST-10's, imho!

You get up above the Supercased Muncie and you will need a G-Force or whatever they call them unless you want to convert to a TKO 500 or 600 or the big 6-speed like the Viper uses and then it's no longer any sort of stock at all, IMHO..

I really want to buy a Richmond type 5-speed w/ an about 3.25 to 1, 1st gear and a 1 to 1 ratio, 5th gear that will hold at least 650 BB hp so that I can run a 2.73 reg for topend!!

And that will be cheap enough that I can afford to step up!! BIG order tho, imo..

pdq67

it really depends on what your doing with it. I've blown to rebuilt m-21s behind a 375 horse 350 drag racing. I lost a synchro in my autogear m-22 doing the same thing.

> M-21 like 450hp;

Hmmm - Does that mean I should ease up before redline? 8-)

Bill, you get her rolling and it really doesn't matter, imho.

It's the off the line "dead Hook" that breaks them up to the point that you are making so much torque at rpm that you just twist the teeth off running up through the gears and this isn't likely with most "sane" street engines.

This is why I always roll mine out and then nail her, it just shock's the drive train easier so that it will live, imho! Not the fastest down the strip, but to each his own...

pdq67