I've Heard a lot of different answers about the strenth of each tranny and the dead first gear of the Muncies.Does that mean that the Super t/10 with the 288 first gear has a definate advantage over the Muncies with' say' a 373 rear end and still be a close ratio.In your humbled opinon whitch tranny is the strongest and lesslikley to break in a 68 Camaro With a 550 h/p,383 with 540 ft ft l/bs of tourqe so whitch one would you recomend,I am open for sugestions,what is the diference between a doug nash super t/10 and a richmond super t/10.Currently I have a 350 turbo with a manual valve body,2800 converter ,shift kit and a hurst quarter stick shifter with 255-60 radial t/as on the car and I can stick the thing in 2nd gear and just stomp it and it will smoke the tires as long as you want to hold them Any help Would Be Appreciated Thanks CAMARO BOB

You will never break a MUNCIE running Street Tires or say M & H Race Masters. I've run 600Hp with P295 N50 15's with various ratios from 4:10 to 3.08's Posi's and it don't make a difference what speed you're traveling at as you can always break the rear tires loose by feathering the clutch or just stomping on the pedal.

What do you want to do? Drag Race or Drive? Auto's are suitable for Drag Race and Manuals are a Driver's Ride.

If you want to drag using a 4 Speed you can't beat a M21 or M22 for launching providing you gauge the amount of Tire Bite that is comparable to your Engines Hp which involves Tire Height, Width, Type of Compound and Rear End Ratio and you car has rung out at top speed by the end of the Quarter.

An Automatic with a Hole Shot Converter is suited for consistent Drag Racing were the driver has little interaction and frankly quit boring for me personally. I prefer a 4 Spd where I have control and the option to test my driving skills under all conditions running a Mid Gear Ratio like 3.31's where I can compete with every day traffic and then some.

An automatic will not stand much of a chance competing with you on a Track or Winding Road and if you beat an Auto Shifter with a 4 Spd in Drag then you can just add a Plus to your driving skills :o))

I suppose if want to Drag Race then either T10 would be suitable with 3.73's but them P255's are useless for launching were 90% of drag racing is won or lost and defeat what your trying to accomplish in which case you will need Slicks.

Dead hook both and they will both leave you.

pdq67

pdq67: I broke too many Main Clusters with Automatics in my time. I've much more control with a 4 Spds to prevent that Dead Hook - How about a Fusible Link in the Drive Shaft - LOL

Dead hook both and they will both leave you.

pdq67


:yes: I agree. Broke more than my share of them over the years.

If I were making a choice, I'd choose the T10, cast iron case as opposed to alum case.
I have seen several dumped clutches and seen many a Muncie puke its guts out. Not to say a T10 wouldn't do the same, but less chances of this event happening are less.

Any trans can break, even the Borg-Warner, Rockwell, and others in semi-tractors can break due to abuse.

Yes, I'd like several fusible links, driveshafts, handy in case a replacement is needed. JMT's

Gotta disagree Ron. Drop the serious hammer on either and they will break (eventually). My younger brother (he hates it if I call him little brother) had a nasty habit of holeshoting his 69 Chevelle with built 350. The muncie broke so often, we had spares in the garage. He would have "weegie" tow him home, we would swap in 45 minutes, and he was back on the street. While one of the others was in the car, the broken muncie was rebuilt. We had 3 in all.

Why would you want to dump a clutch without feathering. Not even auto main clusters can with stand a Dead Hook. Teach you little brother to drive or have him pay for the damage if he will not learn - LOL

I've ashed a few Discs with a 4 Spds shifting through corners at between 5500 to 6800 rpm but never broke one and service them when they tell you they need a little TLC.

Why would you want to dump a clutch without feathering. Not even auto main clusters can with stand a Dead Hook.Maybe with today's compounds, one has to adjust their technique. But, older technology, rayon, nylon, & belted-bias cord tires had a harder compound and would release (spin) energy up in smoke.

I always side-stepped the clutch and had a 10-bolt 3.36:1 in an '64 Impala give out. I always had my fingers crossed otherwise.

Automatics can handle shock load better as there is a fluid coupling between the power maker and power transfer device. However, there are some hard hitting convertors out there acting like a mechanical clutch.

Off topic, but it may help??

I have read that a GM "Clutch-400" or a MOPAR "Clutch-Flite" are the hardest tranny's you can run behind an engine b/c they shift almost instantaneously and they don't have the "clutch hub-spring and marcel" feather OR the hydraulic dampening of the converter to help hold shock to the drivetrain to a min!

And I have to add that I don't know if the Blue Oval guys ever "clutched" their C-6's or not??

pdq67