spaxuk
Nov 16th, 00, 04:45 AM
i have 1978 z28 350, what can i do to increase the performance??, all i have done so far i remove the cats the engine is pretty standard, i also need it to be cost effective i havnt got bags of money.
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View Full Version : performance spaxuk Nov 16th, 00, 04:45 AM i have 1978 z28 350, what can i do to increase the performance??, all i have done so far i remove the cats the engine is pretty standard, i also need it to be cost effective i havnt got bags of money. Torker Nov 16th, 00, 11:31 AM The best bang for the buck is a used aluminum dual plan intake such as a preformer or preformer rpm, and a used 600-750 vac.sec. carb. Then I would spring for a set of 1 5/8 headers. Next get a lower gear such as a 3.55, 3.73 with a possi unit and some sticky tires. You will be flying in no time! bruce ulrich Nov 16th, 00, 07:31 PM in my opionion the best bang for the buck is a curve kit in the dist. any parts store has them for under $10.00 you will be amazed on a smog engine how much more responsive it becomes 69er Nov 17th, 00, 01:52 PM Well my idea would be a cam job, followed by the intake and carb and then the ignition curve. mcpc Nov 17th, 00, 02:44 PM Since you haven't put a budget on your post, it's very hard to say what will work best for you. I'm now totally sold on Dyno2000, the computer program that let's you play with changes to various components to see how they will affect the performance of the engine. Lot's of guys on this bulletin board use it but not correctly. First things first. Tune the engine and get the most from what you have before you go changing things. Then look at the basics--I see your address is the UK and while I used to live there I don't remember many machine shops that specialized in American V8 blueprinting although I am sure they exist. A basic clean-up of the block, balancing of the rotating mass and a good 3 angle valve job should get you a baseline power that will be significantly higher than you now have although nothing to scream about. Once you've figured out what your budget is over this basic $1,000 of work, then figure out what you want to do from there. It should be very easy with a $100 cam and lifters plus a 10 to 1 compression ratio, a good distributor, 1 5/8 headers and the stock 4 barrel to get a REAL 300 horsepower at the flywheel. That's another $1,000. Then work on getting that to the ground with 3:73 gears and posi. After you've gotten used to that, then figure the next step which will be heads a bigger cam and carb. But now you have a blueprinted block and a good crank to build on. ------------------ '67 327 Camaro '68 351 Mustang '83 Porsche 911SC Life is about choices pdq67 Nov 17th, 00, 06:07 PM Spaxuk, Over hear in the states we have to sometimes watch whether we can remove the catalytic converters due to air pollution regulations. I don't know if this is applicable to you in the UK, but might think about it first. As for mcpc's comment about Dyno2000 engine assembly computer program by Motion Software, Inc., 535 West Lambert, Bldg. E, Brea, CA 92821-3911 USA. It is a simulation program and great at illustrating engine parts combination power trends. I swear by it, but do remember that it approximates things and can't be as accurate as a good old "chassie"(spelling??) dynamometer. Do yourself a favor and get a copy and start playing around to see what happens when things are changed. I did and wish that I would have bought it before I started gathering parts for my big engine. The money it would have saved me would have more then paid for it. Motion also makes Drag, a drag race simulation program. They also have a program called Camdisk2 that has over 3000 camshaft timing data on it that makes searching for that all important cam easy. pdq67 |