I spent most of my day installing the roof rail, roof rail weatherstripping, and adjusting my windows on my 69. A few words about this task. I took my time and prefitted all roof rail pieces to make sure I had it right THE FIRST TIME :thumbsup:. I used Dum Dum as a sealer between the sheetmetal and roof rail. I cleaned all screw threads and screws before using them. I test fit the weatherstripping and did all initial trimming and adjusting. I DID NOT USE ADHESIVE YET! :yes: The weatherstripping will fit in the rail with friction. While adjusting the door and rear glass, I used my AIM. Don't try it without it. The AIM will tell you what bolt, slip, guide, etc. does what. It will NOT tell you how to adjust the glass forward, back, up, down, etc. This takes some trial and error. For me, about 3 hours worth on one door glass. I found that the upper guide adjustment will move the glass in and out and the rear door guide adjustment will move the door glass back and forth. I also learned what a glass cam is, in the door. I needed to move the front of the door glass out and learned to move the front guide in and the cam a bit to the rear. My point is, it takes time to adjust, move experiment, etc. to get the glass right. Be careful as to much binding on the door glass can lead to glass shatter. I spent hours on the one door glass alone. I GOT IT RIGHT finally. All I can say is play with it time and time again before giving up.:beers:

Hi Jim.
If you did it in only 3 hours your first time, you were lucky.
For anyone reading this, remember it will take you MUCH longer. Jim's advice is perfect. Keep playing with it and you will get it. It is an art. Once you have it down, it is really easy. It is the FINAL adjustments with the tiny changes that take up so much time when you get good. Also if you use the top of the glass just touching the rail rubber, that is a good reference that will help you adjust them more easily. At the bottom just try to keep it in the middle initially. If you can not get the rear glass to line up correctly, it usually means that you don't have the front glass lined up correctly.

I've messed with it in the past, and I suck at it. Luckily my partner can knock out glass adjustment in no time :thumbsup:

The Fisher manual gives instructions on side glass adjustment.

The Fisher manual gives instructions on side glass adjustment.

Yup.

A way fun job. you coupe guys got it made in the shade tho. Besides the windows, I can move my entirs roof in any imaginable direction!

Gonna need to do it better than it is, too, when/after I get a new top.

My error, I used the Fischer manual not the AIM. My bad. Like Dale says, if the rear glass just isn't right, where the front/rear meet, it may be the adjustment on the front glass. I am getting ready to attack the rear glass now. I went to a car show up the street to look at Camaro's specifically to check my work against theirs. I chatted with the car owners and found one or two that actually did their own work. I got a few tips about adjusting and I am going to try them out.

In the plant, we installed the side glass and adjusted it to fit into slots in plastic spacer blocks clamped to the roof rail, and installed the roof rail weatherstrip LAST, after the glass adjustment; of course, it was easier with all new clean and shiny parts. :)

John,
That, is an interesting statistic that I have never heard stated. That would explain why when the the roof rail weatherstrip is installed FIRST during the restoring process, and you put it in the original holes, that it always works. Basically, you are saying that the factory had a "template" that made their job a lot easier. And technically we are provided a template with our new restore by putting this in the same spot.
Thanks for the very interesting information. I always pictured these factory guys having a special eye for this, which I am sure they had to have anyway. You don't by any chance have a picture of this plastic spacer block(s)?

I don't have any photos, but the sketch below shows what the setting blocks looked like; they were made in the toolroom from nylon, and had two holes in them with two screws that attached them to a clamp that went in the roof drip rail. They located the top edge of the glass in-out and up-down to achieve the design glass position and correct weatherstrip compression; two were used on the door glass, and one on the quarter glass. The roof rail weatherstrip went on further down the line. They worked very well, and allowed door glass to be installed and adjusted in less than a minute. :)

oh to have a set of those today......or at least the specs!

John,

Can you overlap this on a car or give a better explanation as to how it set on the car.
I still am not sure how they used it?
thanks!

I don't have any photos, but the sketch below shows what the setting blocks looked like; they were made in the toolroom from nylon, and had two holes in them with two screws that attached them to a clamp that went in the roof drip rail. They located the top edge of the glass in-out and up-down to achieve the design glass position and correct weatherstrip compression; two were used on the door glass, and one on the quarter glass. The roof rail weatherstrip went on further down the line. They worked very well, and allowed door glass to be installed and adjusted in less than a minute. :)


Installed and adjusted in less than a minute!

That ain't fair! LOL.


Does anybody sell these nylon block things? I am in a battle with my side glass now....it is 90% right, the last 10% is a doozie!