View Full Version : Replacing AC. evaparator coil on a 67


chucky 67
Sep 6th, 08, 12:53 PM
I am looking for some input on my installing my new Evap. coil. The car is still in for paint and I am replacing the blower motor and all the heater and AC components. I had what I thought would be a great idea. What do you think about leaving the Evap coil out and the AC. suit case split until after the motor and headers are installed for ease of installation, than putting the Evap in and bolting the half cover on? or would you recommend bolting it up complete. than install the motor and headers?

stope4
Sep 7th, 08, 07:16 PM
you can do it either way. Just take your time.

Dale8346
Sep 7th, 08, 07:37 PM
CAN be done either way, but definitely better to leave the INNER side out until the motor is in.

Steps to follow:
0) TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES OF EACH ITEM BELOW FROM DIFFERENT ANGLES AND MARK EACH BOLT as you remove it:
1) Remove Inner Fender (and fender if you want. Leave the fender for the body shop)
2) Remove A/C Evaporator BOX (both halves)
3) Remove Heat Box
4a) REMOVE THE PASSENGER KICK PANEL AND GET A NEW ONE. Classic Industries is the only one that makes them.
4b) I would remove everything under the dash here, but if that scares you leave it alone, can be done later. Remove A/C harness if Cowl is being restored, or at least push it through from the motor side to the interior of the car. If you are replacing the under dash harness, you CAN NOT buy one that matches your original. But, it can be made by the wire harness guys.
5a) Have Car Painted (Remove Everything on Cowl so that it can be painted/restored)
5b) Restore Heat Box, A/C box and of course, a new heater core and fan while car is at the body shop.
5c) Have Body Shop call you before they are ready to put on the Passenger Fender.
6) INSTALL PASSENGER KICK PANEL (if you don't do now, you will NOT be able to do later). SEAL IT VERY, VERY WELL. IT WILL LEAK EVEN WITH A CAR WASH IF YOU DON'T.
7) Install Firewall Blanket under dash if it needs replacing. This is actually the hardest part if yours is in AWFUL Shape. You will have to remove the gas pedal, steering column, emergency brake, Master Cylinder and Support. Use the steering column/e-brake slot/gas pedal slot/master cylinder support as your guide on the drivers side. ANY TIME YOU REMOVE THE E-BRAKE, THAT IS THE TIME TO REPLACE THE DRIVERS KICK PANEL AND THE REAR LIGHT HARNESS. Make sure you over seal it also. Again, so that it does not leak.
8) Install the heat box and the outer side of the A/C Box (use 3M strip caulk to seal the a/c outer box. Use light inside to make sure no gaps). I would not install the inner, it just gets in the way of the motor. Do not overtighten, just snug.
9) Now the body shop can finish their body work and install the PASSENGER FENDER.
I have NOT included every step for this process. The rest will be obvious as you are doing it. I did include the ones that will cause you problems if you don't do. Remember, the more naked your car is when you give it to the body shop the easier it is to paint and restore for them. Less expensive for you also.
Special note: If you are replacing your Y pipe, it MUST be replaced before the steering column or the Heat box. You will not be able to get it in once you have done both.

chucky 67
Sep 8th, 08, 05:55 PM
Thanks for the in depth info. I will take it to the bank and follow those steps.