Just signed up today. I've had a '75 for about 12 months that I've been spending some time on trying to get it to a reliable driver for my son to driver during his senior year of high school. This is the first restoration work I've done, so I'm trying to take it slow and realize I've got a lot to learn. I just got it back from the paint shop and have basically redone the interior.

The one issue that I've had since I got the car is the doors are very tight when they close. You have to slam it pretty hard to get it to close completely. I have replaced the weatherstripping with new (it had the same issue before removing the old w/s and painting). The doors line up fine in both the front and rear. I looks like the front is too tight which is holding off the rear. I had the paint shop adjust the front fender out a little (the hood gaps are pretty even) and it seemed to help, but it still tight. I replaced the door lock mechanismsand strickers.

I bought new door glass since the original was pretty scratched and I'm having a glass shop install (they also removed and reisntalled the windshield and back glass during paint). They are having problems getting the new glass to line up. It's tight in the front with a gap in the rear. I suspect it's related to the door alignment issue.

There is a question in all this.....

Any suggestions on how to solve the door alignment issue?

I appreciate any advice.

I'm a newbie to these types of sites, so I'm sure I'll be learning protocol etc.

Thanks

It sounds to me like the door needs to be moved back a little. This should have been done before painting and instead of moving the fender forward. On my 76 I have just over 1/8 inch gap between the door and quater. These doors are very hard to work with becouse of there weight. You may try running several layers of masking tape over the front edge on the door (to keep from chipping it during adjustment). Place a floor jack with a 2x4 between the jack and the door to keep from bending the door lip. Loosen the door hinge bolts at the post and try sliding the door back a little. It takes alot of patience to get them right. However before you do all this check and see if you can get by with just loosening the top hinge at the door and move it out a little. You can not go to far or the top of the door will stick out farther than the fender. Good luck.

Agreed - The 2nd GEN really like to have a tight Door to Rear Quarter Fit - closer then you think.

When mounting the door ensure the Front Top is in position relative to the Windshield Pillar and the lower Front Mount is flush with Rocker Panel. To align the rear you in most cases have to warp the entire door but placing wood spacers either at the Top or Bottom of the Rear Quarter door jams. Using something like 3/4" plywood with cloth anti-scratch with leg power and you back against a wall warp the door so that the Door Skin and Rear Quarter Panels are flush. If you don't do this there is noway you can properly fit the windows.

Moving the door back makes a lot of sense. I noticed that the striker had extra spacers behind it to get it out far enough, which should have been a clue that the door was too far forward.

When I took it to the paint shop I had already removed the old w/s so I guess they couldn't tell what the problem was. I took it back to them after putting the new w/s in, to have them make adjustments (willing to pay for whatever time it would take to get it right) but they did not attempt doing this.

By moving the door back a little, I'm pretty sure that'll make a difference.

It's at the glass shop now and they say they're having trouble getting the windows adjusted (I'm also having them put in a new window regulator on the driver side) so I'll probably have to get it back from them and try this door adjustment before they go any further.

I really appreciate the advice!!

I picked the car up from the glass shop today and they had worked over the weekend to make more adjustments. The doors still wouldn't close completely (sticks out a good 1/4" beyond quarter) with windows up. I took it back to paint shop to have their body guy work on it. I couldn't convince them that the door needed to be moved back (they said it was well centered between quarter and fender and didn't need it). They also close (with a good slam) with windows down and the alignment is very good. I estimate the gap between the door and quarter is about 1/4" and about the same between door and fender. They said they could adjust the windows to allow for a better fit (they also said the glass shop I used didn't have the best techs for this type of work). I guess I'll just have to see what they can do with it.

I sure would like to get to the point where I can do some of this type work myself. I don't mind jumping in and trying most things, but the body work still has me a little intimidated.

I probably should have asked for some advice on the order of things. I'm sure it would have been better to get these alignement issues squared away before paint. But that would probably have meant installing all the new parts and then removing for paint.

Thanks again for the help, I'll let you know how it turns out.

Moved to Second Gen.

Yes, Let us know what happens.

dont let them blame eachother kinda makes a excuse for eachothers problems, I have a 75 as well and were kinda rare out there dont see to many of us. Little differences here and there, my door wouldnt close properly due to the hinge bushings for 1, and the striker but I assume you just have to move it back a little bit. Maybe a few pics with measurements can help?

Ken, Ask them why the striker has to be shimmed to meet the latch if the door does not need to go back. On my 76 I have no shims and my door aligns well and closes well. I wish I could see the situation. It sounds like the front edge of the window is binding up on the weatherstriping, keeping the door from closing all the way. I have known alot of bodymen and shop managers who would make all kind of excuses to not have to deal with aligning the door. Especially after the car was painted. I'm not saying that is what is happening here becouse I have not seen the issues, but thats what it sounds like is happening. Keep us informed.

The body shop guys were able to make some adjustments to the passenger side and it closes much better. They also adjusted the glass and it aligns well now. The Drivers side still requires a firm shove to close completely, but the glass is straight. I do think the new weatherstripping may be binding a little on the driver side and the rubber has pulled lose from the metal ends. I didn't inspect it that closely since I took it straight to a mechanic to have an oil leak and some other stuff done. I will post some pictures as soon as I get it back. I still agree the strickers shouldn't need shimming.

I'm glad to hear from some 74+ Gen 2 guys. Ours sure don't get the attention that the earlier stuff does. Our day is coming though.....

The body shop guys were able to make some adjustments to the passenger side and it closes much better. They also adjusted the glass and it aligns well now. The Drivers side still requires a firm shove to close completely, but the glass is straight. I do think the new weatherstripping may be binding a little on the driver side and the rubber has pulled lose from the metal ends. I didn't inspect it that closely since I took it straight to a mechanic to have an oil leak and some other stuff done. I will post some pictures as soon as I get it back. I still agree the strickers shouldn't need shimming.

I'm glad to hear from some 74+ Gen 2 guys. Ours sure don't get the attention that the earlier stuff does. Our day is coming though.....
Tell me about it! We are rarer than you think on the road! Two days ago someone was heading north on the 99 from modesto towards ripon with a 75-77 worn out gold painted camaro on the back of his chevy truck. We are the finds just like the 70-73's were. If you really think about it...our parts are harder to find than theres to restore! Lets see some pics! :beers: