I've got most of the parts together for my 406 buildup. The Weisco Pistons I purchased already came with a set of Hastings Moly Rings. Should I fork over the cash for a set of Gapless Rings or just use the ones I have already? Has anyone seen any noticeable power and/or efficiency increases with gapless rings?
Specs are:
406, 6 inch rods, 9.9:1 compression, AFR 210 heads, Performer RPM intake, hydraulic roller 288/294 236/242 .555/.576 with 1.6 rockers

Thanks

I have gapless rings in both my 385 and 383. 385 has Total Seal and my 383 has Childs & Albert. I thought the Total Seals were a little easier to set up (they cost more though). As far as performance differences I couldn't tell you, I just like the idea behind gapless rings and have never read/heard anything bad about them and the claims of gains are pretty high. I think the only way to know for sure would be to build an engine dyno it, tear it down and change rings (that's if you really wanted to know the difference). As you know the cost of gapless rings are substantial. I did consult a machinist/engine builder and he swears by them so that was good enough for me.

Royce

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70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
91 Camaro RS V8 (305 TBI)
Link to my 70

http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

The problem with gapless rings is they don't allow the combustion pressure between the 1st and 2nd rings to escape. This doesn't let the top ring seat on the ring land properly. Most people will tell you that the 2nd ring is not a compression ring, it is a scraper. It is not intended to seal combustion pressures. That is the job of the top ring. In fact, some drag racers high rpm engines with vacuum pumps are increasing the 2nd ring gap to 0.024"-0.026" in order to keep the top ring from fluttering due to combustion pressure build-up. My 377 has 0.018" top ring gap, and a 0.024" 2nd ring gap. I'm not telling you to do this on a street engine, but it shows the job of the 2nd ring. Now, I think they have since come out with a gapless top ring design. This definitely might be something to look into, but if I were you, I would just use what I had. Hope this helps. Take care.

Shane

EVERY engine I had the Total Seal gapless rings in (about 5 different ones) used oil; EVERY one. Some were assembled by me or re-assembled by me in an effort to stop the oil consumption and smoke under full-throttle; MOST were assembled at least initially by pro's. GOOD shops, not low dollar places. We used the standard-tension oil rings from Total Seal also, never the race style.

I gave up after five or so engines, re-doing 2-3 of them once or twice. I now run Speed Pro Plasma Moly rings and am very happy with them. They seat immediately, handle the abuse, and don't use any oil.

Jody

Camcojb, that sounds terrible. I have had no oil burning problems at all. Were your heads up to snuff? With the added sealing of the sagpless rings you need to have good valve seals. I don't know what your situation was, but I don't have a problem with either my Total Seals or Child & Alberts.

Royce

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70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
91 Camaro RS V8 (305 TBI)
Link to my 70

http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

The first engine was a 383 LT1 in a 93 Vette. The engine was built and dynoed by TPI Specialties. Splayed 4-bolt, Callies crank, Crower rods, Ross pistons, ZZ-9 roller cam, fully ported LT1 heads by TPIS (no aftermarket heads at the time), bronze guides, etc. They appear to know what they're doing and this wasn't a low-dollar build. The engine ran well (car ran 11.80's with drag radials and got 25 mpg on the freeway in addition to being completely smog-legal in California) but used a quart of oil every 800 miles or so. Smoked under full-throttle only. Spoke with Myron (the owner) and he sent me new rings (still Total Seal gapless) and had a local engine builder re-check and hone. Re-assembled and was exactly the same. Sold the car.

I also tried them on 2-3 blower motors; same thing. Leakdowns under 1% but they all used oil and smoked under full throttle. These were all-new engines with new heads which were completely checked prior to assembly. Some assembled by me, others by race engine builders. No low-tension oil rings either.

Finally gave up with a blown 406 and pulled it apart, re-honed, and re-assembled with Speed Pro Plasma Moly rings. I'll never go back. NO smoke and no oil use. I've put together several engines with the plasma rings and all have worked well. It's probably just my luck, but I've heard of others with the same complaints, even recently. Now SUPPOSEDLY they've recently changed their oil rings in their sets (Total Seal) and they're having better luck.

Jody

Never had a problem with using oil with a Total Seal. Leakdowns are good, but performance gains are nominal. Did ack to back dyno test. Maybe 5 hp? Is it really worth it? I dont think so. After a standard ring warms up its gap decreases. And leak down decreases.

I have had Total Seals leak as much as a standard ring after running it. I guess the gaps lined up on some of the rings because all of em didnt leak the same.

IMO go with the standard type rings. A quality set though.

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Sam

1984 4X4 s-10.
327 / 340hp, 340 ft lbs
700-r4 tranny 3.73 posi