Got my 68 RS back from the media blaster yesterday. There are now a few more rust holes than before. Time for a few questions for those who have gone before- 1. both upper corners in the front windshield channel and one upper corner for the rear back glass channel has pretty big holes thru the roof. Not sure if it's time to replace the roof . I'm already replacing both full quarter panels, so how hard is it to install a roof panel? 2. what does everyone use to remove the spot welds? Are those drill bits for spot welds worth the extra money or does everyone just use regular drill bits or something else? How long do they last? Can the spot weld drill bits be sharpened or do you just buy a bunch and throw them away when they dull? 3. I'm also doing the full interior floor- is it installed up thru the bottom of the car? Right now it's on a home built rotisserie and could be put up thru the bottom, but I think the body needs more support than it gets from the rotisserie and was going to build a body cart, but they look like you can't install the floor with all that structure under it. 4. Do you install the trunk extensions and dropoff before you fit the quarter panels? Maybe the answers to these questions will become more clear once i get the old rusted sheet metal removed, but I just thought with all the knowledge on this site i would ask.
Also thanks for the inspiration- makes my project look like a walk in the park compared to some projects here. Keep up the good work!!!----Dennis

I recently went through the exact same delima. I wasn't planning on a full roof, although was replacing both quarters. I repaired a good portion of the rear window channel, then moved on to the front. The corners were rusted, just as you described. Once I started cut a few inspection holes in the front window channel I found the full scope of the problem.
I thought it was a pretty solid roof overall, but when I decided to replace it, there were many portions of it that were much easier to cut through than they should have been.
With all the time and effort I'm putting into the car, I felt the panel price was easily justified by the fact that I know it is now solid and don't have to worry about it rusting through in a few years.
The roof skin is about $300, and pretty simple to replace if you're already doing full quarters. It is spot welded every few inches in both front and rear window channels, along the drip rail on each side of the car, and across the top of both quarter panels.
To cut off the old skin, I did the following steps.
1.) Cut the majority of the roof off, leaving only the edges attached by spotwelds.
2.) Using an air chisel, removing the front and rear window channels.
3.) I then ground out the majority of the spot welds by running an angle grinder up and down the window channel.


Long story short... I could have run the old roof but would have worried about it. I felt it better to replace it now, and incur a small cost, than replace it after paint and incur a much greater cost.

Is it really necessary to replace the drip rails if you are replacing the roof? I left mine on the car. I did find that I will have to replace the pax side drip rail due to rust but the drivers side is fine. there are a couple of guys on here that said that the roof panel at the drip panels is glued on. I found both adhesive and spot welds on mine.

The way that I removed the roof panel was cut off the majority of the panel like you said, leaving maybe an inch, inch and a half of roof skin at the drip rails, then I used a cutting wheel and used it to grind down there the spot welds are to weaken them enough to pull them up.

After I pulled them up, I went back with the cuting wheel to grind the left overs smooth. Do you think that I'll have roblems doing it this way?

I thought about replacing my drip rails, but ultimately decided against it. The majority of the rails were ok, with only a small portion that had significant rust. I ended up patching the few areas that were bad. If you think you may need to replace them at some time, during a roof skin replacement is the time to do it. There's no other way to get to them with the roof skin on.

My car was exactly as you found, held on with both adhesive and small spot welds every 2 inches. I had been told it was only adhesive as well. Maybe it's a Norwood/Van Nuys difference? Do you know where your car was born?

I don't think you should have a problem replacing the skin in the way that you have.

Not sure if that question was directed at me, but I know that mine was put together at the Norwood plant. I think it's kinda cool to get all the info about the history of the vehicle from a series of numbers on some inconspicuous tag in the engine compartment!

2. what does everyone use to remove the spot welds? Are those drill bits for spot welds worth the extra money or does everyone just use regular drill bits or something else? How long do they last? Can the spot weld drill bits be sharpened or do you just buy a bunch and throw them away when they dull? 3. I'm also doing the full interior floor- is it installed up thru the bottom of the car? Right now it's on a home built rotisserie and could be put up thru the bottom, but I think the body needs more support than it gets from the rotisserie and was going to build a body cart, but they look like you can't install the floor with all that structure under it. 4. Do you install the trunk extensions and dropoff before you fit the quarter panels? Maybe the answers to these questions will become more clear once i get the old rusted sheet metal removed, but I just thought with all the knowledge on this site i would ask.
Also thanks for the inspiration- makes my project look like a walk in the park compared to some projects here. Keep up the good work!!!----Dennis

Dennis,

I can't help on the roof, but it sounds like you got some great/solid advice on that anyhow.....however:

(2) I have spot-weld bits, but I find that you just have to look at each application. I have done more damage with the bits than without them though, and had to go back and repair. If you want to keep the metal on the opposite side than where you are drilling/grinding, then you can use the bits or just cut the metal back and grind the spot welds off. I really like to use a flap disc on a small grinder. Of course, if you are keeping the metal on top and getting rid of the metal behind it, then you can just use a regular drill bit and drill all the way thru. I find I use the spot-weld bits less and less as time goes on. I don't think they are worth the cost most of the time. There are times, however when they do come in handy though.
(3) I installed my floorpan up thru the bottom of my car on my rotisserie, and it went very well actually. You have to keep the quarters, toe-boards, and rockers in place to do it that way, and take tons of measurements. Mine went in without a hitch. I wanted to leave the seat supports in place on mine and just weld the floor pan it, but found it easier to go ahead and take them out. This is one place the spot-weld bit comes in handy. When you are taking the seat supports loose from the rockers, it also makes it easier to get them back exactly where they were. I like using cleco fasteners because they are fast, but when it came time to put my floor pan in, I used Tech-screws (Self tapping) because they will pull the floor pan up tighter than clecos will. Take your time, it isn't that difficult. I would be happy to post any photos you may like to see, or look on my http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v724/3shields/69%20camaro/
photobucket website.

(4) I find it easier to install trunk extensions and inner/outer wheel housings while you have the quarterpanel off. Once again, you may wish to attach all your internal sheetmetal with clecos (I prefer tech-screws) temporarily until you fit the quarter where you want them. Then you can just go back and start welding after you like the fit of everything. Be carefull when you install the tech screws, and don't run them thru something you don't want them in, or have your drill set on to tight of a torque setting. They are easy to strip out.

Good Luck.

Not sure if that question was directed at me, but I know that mine was put together at the Norwood plant. I think it's kinda cool to get all the info about the history of the vehicle from a series of numbers on some inconspicuous tag in the engine compartment!

We're kind of getting off topic, but yes I was wondering where yours was made. Mine is a Norwood car as well. I'm wondering if the Van Nuys cars were the ones that only had adhesive. Or possibly an early/late manufacturing difference.


I have spot-weld bits, but I find that you just have to look at each application. I have done more damage with the bits than without them though, and had to go back and repair.If you want to keep the metal on the opposite side than where you are drilling/grinding, then you can use the bits or just cut the metal back and grind the spot welds off. I really like to use a flap disc on a small grinder. Of course, if you are keeping the metal on top and getting rid of the metal behind it, then you can just use a regular drill bit and drill all the way thru. I find I use the spot-weld bits less and less as time goes on. I don't think they are worth the cost most of the time. There are times, however when they do come in handy though.

I'm in complete agreement. I've found that I either use a standard drill bit, or use a grinder to get rid of the metal. A standard drill bit and some sort of a panel separation knife works just as well as a spot weld bit, but it does take a little practice to get the hang of it. I ended up going to Lowes and picking up a few heavy steel putty knives and used them to separate most of my panels. For the ones that were really stuck I broke out the air chisel. Most of the time, if the panel is stuck, you have either drilled in an incorrect spot, or you need to grind more.

I find that if I don't want to save the top panel, grinding is typically the fastest way to get the panel off.

502- when you did your floor on the rotiserrie did you weld in some braces prior to cutting out the floor? I need to patch both the toe boards- I'm assuming I need to do this before the floor goes in since the floor laps onto the toe boards?
When grinding welds smooth what does everyone use- just a grinder or flap wheels if so what grit- I've heard that flap wheels run cooler so they won't warp the metal.
Thanks---Dennis

502- when you did your floor on the rotiserrie did you weld in some braces prior to cutting out the floor? I need to patch both the toe boards- I'm assuming I need to do this before the floor goes in since the floor laps onto the toe boards?
When grinding welds smooth what does everyone use- just a grinder or flap wheels if so what grit- I've heard that flap wheels run cooler so they won't warp the metal.
Thanks---Dennis
You will hear several people have an opinion on this, but you should do what is comfortable for you. I personally have never had to brace a body to keep it from moving, and it has never caused me any problems down the road. I have 4 rotiserries, and have had a dozen cars on them during several restorations. I currently have my 69 Camaro on one, a friends 70 Chevelle on one, my 57 Belair Sedan on one, and another friends 66 Chevy II on yet another and have had no issues whatsoever.

Now, with that said.......take a ton of photos and measurements. But, do what YOU are most comfortable with. I find that bracing can get in your way at times. I am always very careful not to cut much apart at one time. I have seen a few guys on here that have gone much deeper on their restorations than I ever have. They are very talented and obviously more experienced than I am. I have never had to replace a firewall, a cowl, or a roof......so I definately don't know everything about it. When I replace quarter panels, I try to do them one at a time, and with the suspension on the car and the car resting on it.

If you repair your toe-boards first, then you can finish weld everthing except for where they weld to the floor pan, and then I would screw them together to check for fit.

Just ask alot of questions and study what the other guys on here have done. There is a ton of experience you can learn from here right on this board. Practice with your welder on scrap steel and you will get it set right. Remember, the cleaner your metal at time of welding, the better your welds will be. You cannot get the metal too clean. For sheetmetal, I make sure I clean both sides before welding.

My personal opinion, flap discs don't keep the metal any cooler......you can warp it with anything you grind with....

JUST TAKE YOUR TIME! Patience is what you need here.


Good Luck!

502- when you did your floor on the rotiserrie did you weld in some braces prior to cutting out the floor? I need to patch both the toe boards- I'm assuming I need to do this before the floor goes in since the floor laps onto the toe boards?
When grinding welds smooth what does everyone use- just a grinder or flap wheels if so what grit- I've heard that flap wheels run cooler so they won't warp the metal.
Thanks---Dennis

I would put braces in just to play it safe.
Bob