Well I'm at the point in my build where I need to re-wire the car with the AAW kit I bought. I also want to add sound deadner to it too. Should I do the sound proofing first or wire up the car? I'm rewiring the car front to back.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/texasdvldog/Camaro%20SS/IMG_0245.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/texasdvldog/Camaro%20SS/IMG_0248.jpg

I don't think it much matters the only thing would be the dome light.I would also do the interior of the door just before you put the door panels on if there is any power in them.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PICT0517.jpg

I am doing this as we speak and I would install of the sound deadener first, then do the wiring.

I found it easy to do with the car stripped. If you have the wiring in there your going to have to cut around the fuse block. With it out you can use the hole for the fuse block as a guide to cut out the sound deadner from the outside of the car.

Nice color BTW.

[QUOTE=david calligan;1064359]I don't think it much matters the only thing would be the dome light.I would also do the interior of the door just before you put the door panels on if there is any power in them.QUOTE]

Hey David-
How much do you think doing the inside of the doors helps? I didn't want to create a moisture trap so didn't put sound deadener on the inside of the outer door panels but have considered removing the door panels and adding the material to the inside surface like you did.
Please forgive me for hijacking the thread.

Beautiful color Armando... I'd soundproof first, the big reason being if you have to do any electrical work, run wires, etc, you want access to them. Especially while you're doing the install. The other week I helped a friend fix some wiring problems on a truck he's building. The dynamat was stuck over all the wiring bundles. had to peel up a bunch of that crap to get access to the wiring so we could trace wires and figure out the problem. wasn't easy or fun... talk about some sticky, gooey stuff.

I would also suggest to install the sound deadening 1st. I just cut out was was needed on the firewall. Couldn't imagine trying to do with wiring in there.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Caman355/96.jpg

[Quote: Hey David-
How much do you think doing the inside of the doors helps? I didn't want to create a moisture trap so didn't put sound deadener on the inside of the outer door panels but have considered removing the door panels and adding the material to the inside surface like you did.]

The doors with the sound deadening already sound 100% better when you close them. No metal sound. Seems alot more solid.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Caman355/98.jpg

[quote=david calligan;1064359]I don't think it much matters the only thing would be the dome light.I would also do the interior of the door just before you put the door panels on if there is any power in them.QUOTE]

Hey David-
How much do you think doing the inside of the doors helps? I didn't want to create a moisture trap so didn't put sound deadener on the inside of the outer door panels but have considered removing the door panels and adding the material to the inside surface like you did.
Please forgive me for hijacking the thread.
I have not been in a car that just has it inside the door but my door sounds like a late model Lexus.It is a Pro-Street and every little bit helps.This was also recomended by a second skin rep.And last I think its good because the window fuzzies dont fit to good on the goodmark doors my car doesn't see rain but I do wash it.Look at what I did to mt door panel this helps to...Yeah sorry to jump the post just trying to help....
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PICT0511.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PICT0513.jpg
I also sanded the inside of the door seam sealed the bottum inside seam real good and Por-15 ed the inside then I put the sound deadener.Just make sure the drains are open when your done

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PICT0515.jpg

Thank you David. I have no sound proofing material in my doors and the only thing I could now do is apply it under the door panels. I don't know if the effort is worth the results.
I do have the floor pans covered, the rear half two layers thick, and that helps tremendously.

Seeing it applied to the outside of the door on Daves car gave me a idea. Why not apply some right to the door panel covers? If they are repro who cares right? It wont leave any mess on the car and panels are easily replaceable. I think I am going to try this.

The sound deadener works by reducing the vibration of the metal itself. Placing it on the door panels should help some but not as much as applying it directly onto the metal.

The doors with the sound deadening already sound 100% better when you close them. No metal sound. Seems alot more solid.



Dennis, how hard was it to get the deadner in the door? and did you work from the front to rear in small pieces? gonna do that, but want to check with someone who has already done this and could shed some light.....I would rather not bust my knuckles much....

The sound deadener works by reducing the vibration of the metal itself. Placing it on the door panels should help some but not as much as applying it directly onto the metal.

Your right. Its probably not worth the waste of the deadner to put it there. I will wait to see if I ever take these doors apart to put it directly on the metal.

Dennis, how hard was it to get the deadner in the door? and did you work from the front to rear in small pieces? gonna do that, but want to check with someone who has already done this and could shed some light.....I would rather not bust my knuckles much....


Much to my ignorance, I did one door with one piece, sliding it down thru the window opening, only pulling down a little of the paper backing to get it started on top. It was going well but then I ran into trouble getting the rest of the paper backing off once I got down to the bottom.

The other door I did in 2 pieces starting from the front top of the door and working down. The hardest part I thought was just getting it started straight. You don't have to cover every single inch of the door, but I tried to get as much as possible.

Dennis, how hard was it to get the deadner in the door? and did you work from the front to rear in small pieces? gonna do that, but want to check with someone who has already done this and could shed some light.....I would rather not bust my knuckles much....
I just did this about 2 weeks ago. As you can see other than removing the door panel the door is complete. It really was pretty simple. I used three sheets on the inside of the door and three on the outside. Each sheet was 12" x 20" is a perfect size and took me about an 2 hours to do both doors. I would recommend doing inner and outer as the difference is unbelievable.

Instead of putting foil back sound deadening on the back of the door panel I would use a noise barrier like Overkill or Luxury Liner from Second Skin http://www.secondskinaudio.com/products/Sound-Deadening-Materials.php. The foil backed stuff is intended to be applied to metal surfaces.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb62/RocketRod1967/69%20Camaro/Interior/IMG_6779.jpg

I did the inside with four sheets and then sprayed sound deadener as well I put a piece of 1/2" clear hose on the gun and was able to direct it where I wanted..

Dennis, what did you use? I don't recognize that stuff.

Robert


I would also suggest to install the sound deadening 1st. I just cut out was was needed on the firewall. Couldn't imagine trying to do with wiring in there.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Caman355/96.jpg

[Quote: Hey David-
How much do you think doing the inside of the doors helps? I didn't want to create a moisture trap so didn't put sound deadener on the inside of the outer door panels but have considered removing the door panels and adding the material to the inside surface like you did.]

The doors with the sound deadening already sound 100% better when you close them. No metal sound. Seems alot more solid.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Caman355/98.jpg

Looks like FATMAT. Many of us use it and like it.

Best deals are on Ebay

Dennis, what did you use? I don't recognize that stuff.

Robert

Yes, it's FatMat.

Armando,

Put your sound material down first. Your wiring runs under the sheet metal closures and you don't put sound material there anyway.

You should have factory clips in the frame channel that hold the wiring in place.

Use sound deadener in the doors as well. You should also install a factory plastic vapor barrier (3m makes it for doors) between the door panel and the metal door.

You would be surprised how awesome your car will be if you use the same techniques as a modern car for sound deadening.

Here's a couple pics of the sound material and mercedes carpet mat going down.

http://www.feslerbuilt.com/Vehicles/1969CAMAROCARR/Img1217.jpg


http://www.feslerbuilt.com/Vehicles/1969CAMAROCARR/Img1234.jpg

seems to be pretty straight forward, like I thought. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies Dennis and Doug. that's what I was thinking and what I'm leaning torward to use.

Robert

Robert,
How much of the Fatmat did you purchase to do your car?

Scott

hey fellas thanks for all the replies! So who's got the best price on this stuff?!?!?

Robert,
How much of the Fatmat did you purchase to do your car?

Scott

hey fellas thanks for all the replies! So who's got the best price on this stuff?!?!?

Two really good questions, do tell, do tell!

You can buy this type of stuff anywhere.

Dynamat: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=dynamat&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+115


Every high end build uses dynamat.

Looks like an enough to do the entire car for around $250

Every high end build uses dynamat.



Actually Dynamat is more expensive and doesn't work as well as Fatmat at least according to:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I just wish Summit carried it. Still looking to see how much people use to cover the entire interior.

Actually Dynamat is more expensive and doesn't work as well as Fatmat at least according to:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I just wish Summit carried it. Still looking to see how much people use to cover the entire interior.
You need to reread the conclusions page, http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/conclusion/. Second Skin and Dynamat Extreme were the clear winners, but not the cheapest, and both are butyl based products. Fatmat is an asphalt based product has nowwhere near the mass, .26 lb per sq/ft, versus .5 for Dynamat and Damp Pro and a quote from the page,

"If you really need to do this in the absolutely least expensive way and are not convinced or concerned by the demonstrated inferiority of asphalt based sound deadeners, go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a roll or two of Peel & Seal. This is the least expensive option and you won't have to worry about shipping costs. I can see no difference in Peel & Seal and the asphalt based aluminum skinned products in this review. If you are going to live dangerously, do it right."

Sorry I typed Fatmat meant Secondskin Damplifer

Second Skin's products live up to their "Over Engineered to Over Perform" motto. They are clearly a higher quality alternative to Dynamat Xtreme - designed for greater heat tolerance, with higher quality materials.

If quality is your most important requirement, Second Skin Damplifier or Damplifier Pro are the obvious choices. Dynamat Xtreme is close, but being more expensive and not as good isn't a winning combination. I congratulate Second Skin Audio for their obvious dedication to providing the best product possible.

Actually Dynamat is more expensive and doesn't work as well as Fatmat at least according to:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I just wish Summit carried it. Still looking to see how much people use to cover the entire interior.


I read that sound deadener showdown last year and I still stick by Dynamat of Second skin.

I looked for the article but I remember reading in hot rodding magazine where a builder switched from second skin back to dynamat because the product tended to pull up after a short while.
If I can find the article I will post it.

I'm trying to get me hands on a new product by 3M / thinsulate. It's only been out a few weeks and so far I can only find one supplier selling it.

http://3m.hillas.com/pc-73627-3082658-3m-4710-thinsulate-acoustic-insulation-ma-30-30-in-x-375-ft.aspx

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/thinsulate-acoustic/acoustic/solutions/transport/

I think it's worth a look.

Rich

Hey Rich, car looks good! How much of that stuff did you have to buy to do your whole car?

Good morning Armando,

That's feslers "Draco" project. It's absolutley Sick!

http://www.feslerbuilt.com/1969CAMAROBLK.htm

I can't recall ever using a 3M product that wasn't superior; if they make it for auto use, it has to be good!

My bad meant Second Skin said Fatmat.

Robert,
How much of the Fatmat did you purchase to do your car?

Scott

I haven't bought any yet. I've been looking at it on Ebay. I think if Dennis lives in Arizona and he hasn't had any problems with it in that heat, I shouldn't have any hear in Cali. I heard somewhere 32 sq. ft. was enough for the floor pan area? Any more info on that?

I used FatMat Xtreme in my car. I did the firewall, under dash, floors, door skins, wheel tubs, the trunk and inner quarters. I think I bought 100 sq. feet. I'm extremely happy with it. I can drive down the highway with the top down. the big block rumbling, the blower screaming and have a conversation with the person in the passenger seat. Passengers are always amazed how quiet it is in the car considering how loud it is outside it. There are no squeaks or rattles in the car at all and the door panels, kick panels and rear interior panels aren't installed yet. Just the carpet. I'm not saying other products aren't any good just that FatMat is great IMO. I installed it after I wired the car but it might be easier before. Although I didn't really have any issues doing it after. The cheapest place I found for it when I was looking was on eBay. It usually runs about $120.00 shipped for 100 sq. ft.

.

I have so far used Damp Pro about 110 sq ft and did from the firewall to the rear package tray shelf, doors, headliner and the area above the transmission on the floorpan. I also applied two layers in the problem area: trans tunnel, firewall, toe boards, etc. I still need to do the rear door panel, quarters and trunk. In the end I will probably use 160 sq/ft plus several gallons of Spectrum and Firewall.

Thanks for the replies gents. I'm going Mark's route with the Fatmat extreme. I'll be installing the wiring this weekend. Unlike a lot of you out there, I didn't make a plan building this thing. Just replacing things as I go. The more I tear apart, the more I need to replace. I just wait for the money or for it to tell me what needs replacing now!!

Robert

The more I tear apart, the more I need to replace. I just wait for the money or for it to tell me what needs replacing now!!
Robert
Sounds similar to my plan at times...

I haven't bought any yet. I've been looking at it on Ebay. I think if Dennis lives in Arizona and he hasn't had any problems with it in that heat, I shouldn't have any hear in Cali. I heard somewhere 32 sq. ft. was enough for the floor pan area? Any more info on that?

I haven't had the car out yet in the extreme AZ heat. Still building it, but it does get pretty warm in the garage. I'm sure it's seen 100+ temp and I have it on the roof and it's not going anywhere.
I got 100 sq ft (50mils thick) and it covered the floor, roof, trunk, inside doors, and inside 1/4 panels. I think it ran about $130 with free shipping. I'm sure there are better products out there but this worked great for my project and budget.

I haven't had the car out yet in the extreme AZ heat. Still building it, but it does get pretty warm in the garage. I'm sure it's seen 100+ temp and I have it on the roof and it's not going anywhere.
I got 100 sq ft (50mils thick) and it covered the floor, roof, trunk, inside doors, and inside 1/4 panels. I think it ran about $130 with free shipping. I'm sure there are better products out there but this worked great for my project and budget.

Thanks for the info Dennis. I'm sold!! We have a few 100* days out here on the central coast.

I'm glad I'm not the only one Rod!!

so where's the best deal at??

Just an FYI...
I decided to go with FatMat. Look at a lot of it on Ebay...every 100sqft package was priced exactly the same...$99 + $39s/h, or $140.

If you go to FatMat's website, a 100sqft kit is $120 w/Free shipping.

Go figure.

Jim

Just an FYI...
I decided to go with FatMat. Look at a lot of it on Ebay...every 100sqft package was priced exactly the same...$99 + $39s/h, or $140.

If you go to FatMat's website, a 100sqft kit is $120 w/Free shipping.

Go figure.

Jim
Ed,your bringing back some old threads.Isn't fatmat asfault based and the show down tries to steer you away from this or do they have the is it neoprene now. I cant remember I was in the showdown though.

From Fatmat's website:
"Our 50 mil rubberized compound is covered with a shiny protective aluminum top as well as a waxed paper release bottom it's exactly what your looking for in order to stop those nasty rattles, eliminate road and outside noise, insulate your vehicle and dramatically improve the sound of your car audio stereo system"

In the showdown, I think he referenced it as an asphalt system, they say rubberized compound.

Jim

For those of you out there doing more of a budget job...I paid about 30 bucks at the local home depot to buy enough "water heater blanket" to do the entire floor pan of my 67. I've never been in a car that has fatmat or dynamat in it but I can say the the water heater blanket helped my car A LOT. I bought the stuff that was supposedly 1 inch thick (though it actually seems a bit thicker) and had double sided tin foil material on it. Works pretty good..

For those of you out there doing more of a budget job...I paid about 30 bucks at the local home depot to buy enough "water heater blanket" to do the entire floor pan of my 67. I've never been in a car that has fatmat or dynamat in it but I can say the the water heater blanket helped my car A LOT. I bought the stuff that was supposedly 1 inch thick (though it actually seems a bit thicker) and had double sided tin foil material on it. Works pretty good..

Do you have the mil size? How did you attach-tape, glue, etc..
Are you still happy with it? Pictures of install?
Thanks

Hey Kevin, yeah I am still happy with the install and the functionality. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures during the process, and I've already put my seats, carpet, shifter boot, etc back on. I can say that it laid down very easy and was a fairly quick procedure. As for holding it firmly to the floorpan, I used some 3M spray adhesive (medium strength) and it worked great.