http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq305/ambrola/WindowTrim002-1.jpg

As you can see, both sides are pitted. Can you buy these re-pop or do I need to send them off for re-chrome. I have the same problem with my floor shifter. No one seems to make replacements for these parts. Ricks says call but dont have.
I have everything else done except these 2 inside pieces. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

This is how bad the shifter is.
http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq305/ambrola/WindowTrim007.jpg

Yes, you will have to get them rechromed.
Classic Industries (I believe they are making the part) said LAST year that they would be ready this Summer. Send them out and get them rechromed now so that you don't have to wait any longer for them. You will find it is cheaper than buying new ones. Several guys have said in the past that this company did theirs and did a really good job. That is where I am sending mine this winter.
Chrome_Plating_Specialists
W 797 County K
Brillion, WI 54110
920-756-3284

Thanks Dale. I thought that was going to be the answer.

They look like pot metal. Does anyone know if they are??
Also, I need to replace back window and door glass. I called a local glass company and the back glass installed was 225.00 and the door windows were 240.00 each. This seems much to high. My original glass is not broken, but has scratches in them. Has anyone tried to get these out by buffing???

Go to the work Search at the top of the web page. You will get the answers on all your questions. They have all been addressed here before. The answers are really good also. It will not be a waste of your time.

As for the glass, from what I understand, if you can feel the scratches with your fingernail, they're beyond buffing. Years ago, I got a cheapo kit from JCWhitney and was pleasantly surprised how well it worked for the finer scratches.

I just bought ALL my glass from the GP Superstore for 800.00 shipped. I'll let you know what it looks like when I recieve it~

What Gary said is somewhat true. The scratches that your finger nails will click on, are very difficult to remove. Not impossible, but they take more work and more know-how! What many guys don't talk about on this issue, is that it does not really make a difference if you 40 year old car glass has some scratches in them. It is glass and not that noticeable usually unless you are really scrutinizing. I personally would rather have the old glass with a few scratches then the new glass. Just my opinion.

Try bronze wool...it will remove the rust and not scratch the chrome; try this kit, I used it on my old Schwinn stingrays...worked surprisingly well... http://oldroads.com/clean_kit.html

Dale, yeah, I agree with ya to some extent, I try to keep original pieces as much as possible....would rather have a slightly flawed original than a repop for sure. Strategically placed scratches in the glass can be quite annoying though, if ya know what I mean:waving::mad:

As for repairing scratches that can be felt with your fingernail, I'm stickin to what I've heard and experienced until I learn differently. Please, feel free to offer advice.....might save me some $$$.

I've got plenty of elbow grease.....

LOL. Gary, you are right. There is definitely enough work to do on these old cars and unfortunately ANYTHNG we do to the original glass is one of the biggest. And you are also correct that there is some subjectiveness in this subject. I think between what you have said and what I have said, that will make him think about his options.

Glass is Expensive vs. Glass takes an awful lot of time (if lots of deep scratches can also be impossible).

And I agree with you. If LOTS of deep scratches in the WRONG place, you will be better off with new glass.

Here is my post on Glass Polishing:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=133860&highlight=polish+glass

Ronnie, you have asked several times if they are Pot Metal. I do NOT think they are but do not really know for sure since I have NOT seen one broken. I am not sure that it matters since they will rechrome really nice. What is your reason for the question?

Ronnie, you have asked several times if they are Pot Metal. I do NOT think they are but do not really know for sure since I have NOT seen one broken. I am not sure that it matters since they will rechrome really nice. What is your reason for the question?

I used to restore old Phonographs, the ones from the early 1900's. They had pot metal parts in them that was usless. Wasn't anything you could do to make the pot metal look good. After looking hard at those pillars, I don't think they are pot metal, but some sort of light weight metal. I am going with you guys and sending them and my shifter off to re-chrome. After that, the only part I need is the heater assembly. I have seen them in all the re-pop mags, so no biggy.

I had my vent window frames rechromed by Metal Brite in Dayton OH 937.278.9739 They did my radio bezel, bumpers and a bunch of other parts too.

Thanks for the link Dale, that's a heckuva nice write up! I don't know, years ago I did my glass and was pleased until I got to the drivers door and the scraping in the upper corner as you describe.....decided it was too far gone. I'll be diggin the glass out of storage here soon, doubt it'll look any better but it's worth a try.....400 grit??:eek: Thanx again, much appreciated.

Be lookin forward to the final finish pix of your cruiser Ronnie. Oh what a feeling it must be:)

Thanks Gary.
Have you ever sanded Stainless Steel Scratches?
Which do you think are harder? Steel or Glass?
Don't forget about the bevel effect. The sanding has to feather out to not create the bevel. If the scratches are too deap and too many in one spot, it can be hopeless.

Kinda funny ya bring that up Dale....I was just thinkin about pickin yur brain on the subject:D No, I've never done much sanding (polishing) of glass or SS, just buffing. A few days ago, I did a search on SS polishing and found another one of your informative write-ups:) I've also got some literature from Eastwood on the subject.

Yesterday, I did some straightening and sanding (500 grit) on some rear window trim I picked up on ebay. First piece turned out fine I believe, but the next one seemed as though I sanded through a top layer:confused: Do you know if some of this stuff is plated?? It was advertised as original stainless but I'm wonderin if the sand through is a repop?

I was lookin through an Eastwood catalog last night and noticed they have a new glass kit advertised for deep scratches......hmmm.

Here's a link;

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2024&itemType=PRODUCT

Gary, thanks for your kind words.
The original Front and rear glass moldings are Stainless Steel, not plated. I am not saying it does not exist, but I have never seen stainless steel plating.

Maybe you could post a picture so that we can see what you have.
If you do the rough sanding, WHICH IS REALLY, REALLY helpful if stainless has DEEP Scratches, pretend you are trying to remove the previous scratches by moving UP the later in finer sandpaper. It is much FASTER to sand, then to "Buff." If you use a 500 or 600 and then go to a 1000, you will just find you spend WAY MORE time on the buffing wheel! Don't move up too fast going to 2000. (Best to move up 400,600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000.) Buffing your "left over" 500 scratches (because you are in too big a hurry) when you get to the buffing wheel is very time consuming. This is the Art of of polishing, to not do that.

Yep, I hear ya. Maybe I missed it, but what compounds and wheels did ya use for buffing SS? I forget the names, but Eastwood recommends 3 different wheel/compound combo's. Maybe if sanding all the way up to 2000, a guy could skip the first (aggressive) compound?

Yeah, I can get pix.... not sure how to get'em on here tho....

http://s418.photobucket.com/albums/pp266/garfieldsmaro/?action=view&current=black1.jpg

http://s418.photobucket.com/albums/pp266/garfieldsmaro/?action=view&current=black1.jpg

Well, can't get it to come up, you'll have to click on the link. The spots are hard to see.... kinda look like shadows. The red marks on the cardboard are in the same locations as the "sand through"spots. I'm not sure what's goin on...the more ya sand, the bigger the spots get. Must be some kind of plating??
Even got one of the hood I recently painted:)

I am not sure I get your questions?

Dale, ol' chap, I've just been experimenting with sanding stainless steel....I'll send ya a PM one of these days or feel free to do the same:)

For the record, here's some of Eastwoods recommendation for buffing SS, as I understand it. Of course each individual work piece dictates the steps needed, but they say after sanding with 400 you're ready to buff!

Step - Compound- Buffing Wheel

1)Rough- Emery - Sisal

2)Intermediate- Stainless - Spiral/Ventilated

3)Final - White Rouge - Loose Section

You will find that 400 leave a lot of deep scratches that will come out with the emery polish, after about 3 hours. It is just faster to use wet sand paper while moving up finer.
Also, it is much easier to see through water then it is the polishing "wax/paste".

I have done both (buffing and sanding), when you play with both you will get it. Both work. Time is the big difference. You will also find that polishing after 400 kind of makes the stainless look like orange peel (if you don't polish it long enough). When you are new to the polishing, you just think this is normal. As you do it for many more years, your learn that it is just part of the scratches that you never got rid of.

Hope that helps even more. I still would like to see the picture of your that you thought was NOT stainless all the way through.

Yep, all makes good sense:yes:

Did ya check the photobucket link in my previous post??....there's 3 pix in there, 1 of the hood and 2 of the stainless trim. As I said, the marks (sand through, or whatever) are pretty hard to see in pix. See the red marks on the cardboard?....roughly the same marks on the stainless. I'm not sayin it isn't stainless, just wondering if the stainless might be chrome plated?? I dunno...maybe it'll "buff out", just have to wait until I get there. Just messin around. Top priority for now is gettin my paintwork done before ol man winter comes a huffin & a puffin:angry:

What buffin wheel did ya use with the emery?

Thanx:)

When using the emery, you want anything that is stiff, not soft.
Be careful not to get the metal too hot!!!!
All the hardware stores sell a stiffer cloth pad. I doubled it up as you can see from my pictures.
Wrap your nut on your buffing wheel with Duct tape so that if you slip off you don't have another scratch to get rid of.

Gary,

I looked at your pictures today. I am going to say, not original. Get new ones. Wish I could see those in person. How come you don't put what State you are from? From your pictures, I guess there must be stainless steel plating!!!

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=144089

READ THIS. THEY ARE BOTH AVAILABLE NOW.