I installed SSBC discs on frt+ rear conversion also,new powewr/master,ss lines bled everything and it all works but I feel it should be better! Should not this system lock up and skid all 4 if you wanted?breaking good but not great!When I try to use line lock it's not totally locking fronts,maybe if I push my peddle right through the floor which should not be required.Did I do something wrong on install or is it air in system ? I've put 1000 miles on and no change?:confused:

Does the pedal feel soft, or low? Does it change when its warm? Will the rears lock?

pedal feels hard most times! Doesn't feel like anything will lock up ?:sad:

Did you break in the rotors and pads as recomended bySBCC ?...if not your rotors could be glazed and your pads are not gripping as they should.With 1000 miles on them they should lock up easily,especially at the rear.

I have exactly the same problem. I took out the booster (cuz i had low vac - installed a vac pump, but it sounded like a train under the hood when it rans) and went back to manual. Installed a new aluminum master (1" bore) and tested the pressure at the fronts - 1100 lbs. Cant lock up either front or rear. Tried a new rotor on the fronts (when I got rid of the 2" dropped spindles - huge problem with the control arm rubbing on the tires). Still same thing. Looks like i need more pressure so I'm looking for a smaller bore manual master.

I never did brake in ? I was having engine oil leak issues etc so only going 1-2 miles down GRAVEL and returning to shop,country living has it's ups and downs! How can I deglaze and try to rectify ?:o

You can have them turned on a brake lathe. You may get lucky with sandpaper, but having them turned works for sure. The pads are more than likely shot as well. Once the pads get a glaze on them, they are junk.

I have exactly the same problem. I took out the booster (cuz i had low vac - installed a vac pump, but it sounded like a train under the hood when it rans) and went back to manual. Installed a new aluminum master (1" bore) and tested the pressure at the fronts - 1100 lbs. Cant lock up either front or rear. Tried a new rotor on the fronts (when I got rid of the 2" dropped spindles - huge problem with the control arm rubbing on the tires). Still same thing. Looks like i need more pressure so I'm looking for a smaller bore manual master.

I would think something else is wrong. With 1100psi you should be able to lock the tires at will. Does the pedal hit the floor before you get to the lockup point or do you have pedal travel left?

I installed SSBC discs on frt+ rear conversion also,new powewr/master,ss lines bled everything and it all works but I feel it should be better! Should not this system lock up and skid all 4 if you wanted?breaking good but not great!When I try to use line lock it's not totally locking fronts,maybe if I push my peddle right through the floor which should not be required.Did I do something wrong on install or is it air in system ? I've put 1000 miles on and no change?:confused:

How did you bleed the system? Did you use a hand vacuum bleeder? If so, that may be the issue. I have spoken to Mark from Savitske on numerous occasions when I purchased my hydroboost system and he told me he gravity bleeds his systems EXCLUSIVELY. He never uses a hand vacuum bleeder. He used to, but found that they left air in the system. He said he leaves the lines open over night and lets gravity do its work. Did your conversion include manual to power or did you already have the power and just go to disc at all corners?

to 67CamaroRS/SS - pedal goes nice and hard but not to the floor.